Jeep Strokers

Hey guys.
After 4 years and 40k miles on my 4.6 stroker I found oil in my coolant. so I threw a new headgasket in. tested all for trueness with a micrometer and feeler gauges.
still leaking after that. also over the last few years she has developed a small knock and as such I will be rebuilding her.
the hoist arrives next monday then the motor is coming out.
Im not trying to kill myself financially with this rebuild. compression was great prior to deciding this.
Heres my current list of stuff I bought/think I need so far.
Full bottom end gasket kit fel pro (got it on rock auto for $10 on closeout with the pexmatorx seals. score )
Full Top end gasket kit fel pro
new harmonic dampener.
new motor mounts.
upgrade timing chain ?


what I am thinking needs to be done.
Regrind crank
New crank bearings
check cam and cam bearings for failure.

I will be posting as many pics as I can.
Im going to be mocked for saying this.... but...This will hopefully be a short refresh
Wish me luck.

You have most of it covered. Have the crank check first though. Might just need a polishing. I would replace all the bearings since you have it out. Have the bores measured and hopefully all they might need is a touch up hone. New rings and have the pistons and rods checked out. Find where the knock is coming from.

How did you check flatness using a micrometer?

its like a compass type micrometer that you can attach through a bolthole and rotate to find depreciations in the surface. its not even for cars but it works really well..
i like using both that and the straight edge and feeler gauge to compare spots i think are lower than the deck.

So. The motor comes out tomorrow. Hoping I can get off lucky. But I feel like I want to throw away the comp cams cam. Just a noisy cam. Even with the yellaterra roller rocker arms. I was looking at crower, any ideas on if I even should ? or is It going to be just as noisy on the valvetrain
Pics comming tomorrow when the motor is out.

If you go Crowder like I did you have to use guide plates. The plates are crane and are a Buick part number not mopar or jeep that matches our 7120 heads etc.I like em!

I am still doing more and more research into the cams on these engines. I'll post back with what I decide

Alright.
So I did not have as much time as I planned on this weekend.
But I did get the engine hoist assembled and removed the front, left and right sides of anything attached.

Here are some pics.
I knew the engine mounts were blown. I have replacements already.
All I have to remove now is the bellhousing bolts and those pesky e-12 ones.
Ill post pics on pulling her out on thursday. still need an engine leveler. Harbor freight Here I come.

blu3fan wrote: All I have to remove now is the bellhousing bolts and those pesky e-12 ones.
Ill post pics on pulling her out on thursday. still need an engine leveler. Harbor freight Here I come.

I simply took a dremal with a small cutoff wheel to those fun little e-12 bolt heads, I was able to spin them out by hand once the head of the bolts were cut off and the pressure was removed...

I'm going to disconnect the tranny mount and drop it a tad and throw a buncha extensions and u joints and get it from where the transfer case is.
I bought the special sockets from harbor freight. Did it that way before with good results. I may replace them with regular bolts this time tho.
Thanks for the dremmel idea. I'll keep it in mind if they get stuck.

I attempted to remove mine but bought the wrong size e-wrenches lol so the dremal made quick work out of it. I was surprised how easy the came out after I chopped off the heads of the bolts, literally threaded them out by hand. Good luck with yours, shouldn't be bad if you had them out before.

motor is out.
pics will be posted once I am home.

what a fiasco.
the harbor freight engine hoist could barely lift it high enough to clear the front end and I ended up scratching my front panel before getting frustrated and taking the whole front end off.
the 1000lb engine stand I bought will barely support the weight of the engine and had to put a jack to support the end.

I forgot how much of a beast this longblock is....

didn't get any further than removing the rockers and loosening the head bolts.
I will have pics of crank and cam as well as head later on.
Stay tuned.

Earlier in your thread you mention you have a noisy cam, and mentioned you wanted to replace your comp cam.
I'm not going to persuade you not to change your cam, but assuming that your Comp cam passes a visual inspection, there's nothing that the camshaft itself could do to cause noise.

If you're going to replace your timing set, my advice would be to go with a Rollmaster.
There comprised of billet gears, and seamless rollers. Less expensive than Cloyes and much better quality

Russ Pottenger wrote:Earlier in your thread you mention you have a noisy cam, and mentioned you wanted to replace your comp cam.
I'm not going to persuade you not to change your cam, but assuming that your Comp cam passes a visual inspection, there's nothing that the camshaft itself could do to cause noise.

If you're going to replace your timing set, my advice would be to go with a Rollmaster.
There comprised of billet gears, and seamless rollers. Less expensive than Cloyes and much better quality

its much less noise. and more valve lash.
the specific cam I bought is notorious for ticking valves.
Im still doing more research into what my final plans will be.

Pics are a little out of order.
Motor is out.
tore half of it down. gonna pull the crank and cam later on today.
Things are not looking good.
The odd looking black pic is of the oil pan. and yes that is a boatload of metal shavings in there.
The cam lobes look a little worn. but the lifters do not show signs of bad wear.
So that pile of shavings could be from the crank bearings.
More pics later

Also. in the pic with the oil pan. there is a copper washer. where would that have came from ?