Refresh on 4.6 stroker

[Retlaw01XJ]

For the thrust bearing, try the Jeep dealer.
I had to use 0.001" undersize bearings for my Scat crank.... had to buy them from Jeep, IIRC they were sold individually.

[blu3fan]

Thanks retlaw. thats a really good idea. I wasn't even thinking dealership at all.
But part is discontinued.
oh well. Im going to go with the crown automotive one i found I think

[blu3fan]

So the crown automotive thrust bearing has the tang on the rear side of the motor on the thrust bearing. so I had to buy another whole set of clevite bearings to make it fit.
Getting there.... I purchased a new head from California with warranty. and great reviews.

In the meantime everything else is almost assembled. just keep forgetting to upload my pics when I am at the computer. Ill get a ton up one of these days.

on a side note. Berrymans parts dip is the best thing in the entire world. cleans pistons so well.

[blu3fan]

Got some pics.
I need to get more as I put the last remaining pieces on.

I scared the living crap out of myself when putting the dampener on. Used the pulley installer tool. got the dampener all tight. removed the tool only to find the little dowel at the end got stuck on the crank. with nothing but a small round tip protruding. I shaved the top and bottom edges down a tad to flat . and put a universal wrench on it. lucky for me it came off. (so happy i cleaned that tool with wd40 before installing)
I stood there and looked at it for 20 mins before even touching it thinking, I had just ruined my crank and the only way it was coming out after all that pressure I just put on it was to drill it out.
When it came out. wow. so happy.

[blu3fan]

So the final thing in my mind on this rebuild is. Will I need different pushrods ?
Im running the mopar valve springs that someone on this forum said would work.
1.6 yella terra roller rockers.
I know the block was decked .050 since owning the car. 0.010 on the first build 8 years ago. and 0.040 on this time.

thoughts ?


excuse my newbieness on this one but
I know I was running 91 before to keep from pre-detonation.
With the block being shaved down some Wont the quench height be less. thus hopefully helping me ping less ?
wish I had a gauge to test my quench height. I did feel like with the pistons at tdc I did have a big gap before. Ill post pics once the rings arrive and I can get this motor FINALLY back in.

[jeepxj3]

Decking the block 0.040" will definitely help to decrease the 'Quench'. But is is a bit of a 2 edge sword. Tighten quench to improve detonation resistance but it will increase compression and increase chance of detonation. Usually need to decrease 'quench' and increase piston dish to maintain reasonable compression ratio. It is a balancing act.

[Russ Pottenger]

What pistons do you have in it?
Before you bolt your cylinder head on you should really try and figure out what your static compression ratio is.
You'll at least have .008 variance to play with between the Victor/Mopar .043 and Felpro .051.
I stock .060 Cometic if necessary.

[blu3fan]

pistons are Enginetech P3071-030
I already bought the fel pro one. but should I change it ?

I know I have a scatt 242 4 weight crank.
If I remember correctly i still have the original rods in there (sorry its been years since I built this).... couldn't give a 100% on that though. no numbers or markings on them at all

Deck height is -.050 below stock now.
I should buy a dial to test it.

[Russ Pottenger]

Measuring how far the piston is down the hole would be important factor in determining the static compression ratio.
Better to do it now then to second-guess yourself later

[blu3fan]

Yeah. I have a friend who is local. Im going to see if he has a dial and deck bridge and get back to you.
thanks russ you have been really helpful throughout this rebuild

[jeepxj3]

With your Block decked 0.050", you should be able to put a straight edge across a bore and measure with a feeler gauge and measure how far down in the bore the piston is sitting. Don't really need a dial indicator.

[blu3fan]

With your Block decked 0.050", you should be able to put a straight edge across a bore and measure with a feeler gauge and measure how far down in the bore the piston is sitting. Don't really need a dial indicator.

Honestly. Unless the .040 they took off this time is a lot. this isn't even going to be close.
the piston to deck height before was quite a bit. a large enough gap that no feeler gauge would measure.

Im still waiting on my metric piston rings to arrive. then ill get back with more info.

I just realized Harbor freight has a a full dial setup for like $30, so im headed down there today. piston rings arrive monday. Ill get back with the piston to deck clearance soon

[blu3fan]

Piston rings arrived.

Question.
1st ring has no bevel and no dot. ( I feel like it should have a dot but does not )
2nd ring has dot facing up bevel facing down.
am I correct ?

(according to Muad'Dib "The first compression ring is the one with the dot, the seconds compression ring is the one with the inside bevel. General rule of thumb is all marks and bevels face up." )





Should have pistons in the block tomorrow.
Will get back with the static compression ratio numbers when I know.
Did some research into how it effects everything. a little more educated now. the more you know right... everyones has to start somewhere.
thanks.

[Russ Pottenger]

You're correct. The top bring square it can go in either direction. If the top rain we're to have a bevel it would go towards the top.
Second ring bevel always goes down.

Before I install the rings on the Pistons I'll take my plumbous stone, or you also could also use a jewelers (fine) file to likely break the sharp edge at the end of the ring.
That'll keep from putting a scratch down the cylinder wall.
Line the end gaps 180 apart parallel to the wrist pin. The reason is if it were to leave a scratch it wouldn't transfer to the area of the piston skirt.

[blu3fan]

Problem.
So I put the pistons in.
Everything spun fine before.
torqued two down.
nothing will turn.
loosen rod bolts. very slightly. everything moves freely.
help ?
the only thing i can think of. is that two of my rods. the wrist pins on them were a little sticky. wouldnt wobble back and forth freely.
I cleaned them and coated them in oil and lube.
Just to make sure I put a air impact on the crank pulley bolt.
and tried to turn over while rods were torqued (33lbs) Wont budge at all.
ideas ?

Main thing here.
It turned over fine before installing the pistons.
when I loosen the rod caps. A tad. everything will turn over.
33lb's shouldnt stop them from turning in my mind.