Jeep Strokers

Ok I'm finally getting started. I started on the head yesterday and got 3 of the chambers polished. The block, crank and rods go to the machine shop Tuesday. When I pick the parts up from the machine shop I'll drop the head off, hopefully I'll have the porting done by then. I plan to just gasket match everything and rough up the intake ports. While the head is be done I will get the short block assembled. For those that have used the 229 cam, what are your thoughts with the results? I'm kind of torn between the 229 and the stock 04 cam with 4* of advance after looking at some of the dyno charts.
Al

Do not gasket match, especially on the exhaust port. Match the intake to the head as best as possible. Clean up the casting and leave it at that. You can polish the exhaust port though if you want.

Thanks Silver, you saved me from screwing up my head and a lot of time.
Al

Ok I just finished polishing the chambers. Talk about some rough casting took forever just on the chambers.
Al

Ok I got the chambers cc'd and matched tonight. I bought livestock syringes at TSC, $4 for 2 60 cc syringes and used a piece of plexiglas I alread had. I had 1 at 60 and the rest ranged from 59 to 59 1/2. Everything goes to the machine shop in the morning. Here's a pic of the syringe kit I bought.
Al

Ok everything at the machine shop and I have all the parts except the bearings which I'll get when I get the crank back. The machine work is supposed be finished Friday the. Then assembly will begin on Saturday after I cc the head again.
Al

Ok I got everything back from the machine shop today. Everything is all good except the crankshaft. My machinist checked it after micro polishing it and said that it would need to be ground which he doesn't do. It was .002-.003 under the min. on the rods and mains. So I either have it ground or find another one.
Al

Ok I cc'd the chambers again yesterday and they are at 58.5 so all is good there. That would mean that approximately .010 was machined from the mating surface. Will I need shorter push rods or will .010 make a difference?
Thanks, Al

It would be cheap insurance to check PR length for proper preload. It's pretty easy to do.

It shouldn't be a problem to have your crankshaft ground. Just tell the grinder to put it on the high.

Always check, but .010 off the head or block wont make much of a difference. Maybe 1/16 of a turn.


Russ

bigal389 wrote:That would mean that approximately .010 was machined from the mating surface. Will I need shorter push rods or will .010 make a difference?

A 0.010" head shave alone isn't enough to require shorter pushrods. One full turn of a rocker arm bolt is ~0.060" so that's 1/6 of a turn.

Ok good that will save me some trouble. Now just to find someone local that can do the crankshaft.
Al

Ok I finally got the crank back, .010 under on the rods and mains. I'm going to start the assembly tomorrow.

I got the long block together today but still need to torque the head bolts and rockers. I couldn't find the socket to fit the head bolts or I would have gotten farther.

Heads 100lbs
Rockers 24lbs