Jeep Strokers

new build. 3rd time start.

There is valve noise, seems like from cyl 5 or 6.

an no oil on one of the rockers. Lifter?

What should I look at, test?

[YouTube]www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0zffx7n0Hs[/YouTube]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0zffx7n0Hs

Could be the lifter. Give the rocker arm over the push rod a decent slap with a dead blow hammer.. might dislodge it if it is the lifter. Make sure the pushrod and passage in the rocker arm is clean too.

bent push rods. Most every one is bent. Cyl1 is very badly bent....

Brand new stroker motor, 0 miles, less then 20 min run time.

I ha it built back in 13... I doubt they will warranty it.

Time for another stroker. If I'm lucky, I'll get more then 0 miles out of the next one.

DaKing wrote:bent push rods. Most every one is bent. Cyl1 is very badly bent....

Brand new stroker motor, 0 miles, less then 20 min run time.

I ha it built back in 13... I doubt they will warranty it.

Time for another stroker. If I'm lucky, I'll get more then 0 miles out of the next one.

A new cam, lifters, and pushrods should get you going again. You don't need a new engine.
Sounds like the cam wasn't broken in properly the first time round and having the engine sitting around for 2 years without running wouldn't have helped.

I wouldn't go throwing parts at it yet. First, find why they bent. Pistons contact with the valves? Valve springs binding? Spring retainer binding on guide? I wouldn't say you need a whole new engine.

If it ran ok but just made valvetrain noise, I would highly doubt piston to valve contact especially with mild cam and dished pistons..(lots of P/V clearance in there). I'll bet money on your valvetrain being thrown together without proper geometry being checked. Find your lift at the valve and check clearances starting with your spring coil bind and retainer/guide clearances at max lift. After that check proper rocker operation thru max lift to ensure no binding. The problem should be right in front of you.

Agreed, I'd find out WHY!? they are bent!, we've run the BIGGEST hydraulic cam with flat top pistons in our race car and NEVER had any valve to piston issues!?, unless the chain broke?, the single row chains SUCK!
I'd probably just go for a new set of pushrods, and maybe check the rocker pivot clearance?, how big is your cam?

One thing Ii forgot is to check the rocker arm to rocker trunnion for bind. Easily over looked.

I bought new push rods, 3 sets. 2 "original" and a performance set for ~$100. I also bought new "stock" rockers.

The place I bought the Stroker kit said could be bad gas causing the bending. I could not see why gas would cause it. But at any rate, its a full restore. New tank, new pump, new filter, new hoses, new injectors,, and new gas.

they said the "stock" push rods will handle the new stronger valve springs.

Just idling would bend the push rods, instantly. I now have a collection of bent ones.

I figured at this point, I may as well toss in the expensive set of push rods.

So, I run engine for a few min, pull some push rods. No bent push rods. And the clicking I had is also gone. Sounds great.

My guess is the stronger valve springs are applying a lot of force. Bending the "stock" push rods. Maybe I need weaker springs?

Please sell your engine to someone with half a brain.

You have no business touching anything mechanical.

DaKing wrote:I bought new push rods, 3 sets. 2 "original" and a performance set for ~$100. I also bought new "stock" rockers.

SilverXJ wrote:I wouldn't go throwing parts at it yet. First, find why they bent.

If your springs are bending stock push rods don't expect any life out of your camshaft!

IH 392 wrote:Agreed, I'd find out WHY!? they are bent!, we've run the BIGGEST hydraulic cam with flat top pistons in our race car and NEVER had any valve to piston issues!?, unless the chain broke?, the single row chains SUCK!
I'd probably just go for a new set of pushrods, and maybe check the rocker pivot clearance?, how big is your cam?

Well I was under the impression this engine was a non interference based. borescope shows pistons and valves met. Guess I have a larger cam..

Engine has double row timing chain. maybe they installed off by a tooth...

I also checked the clearances.


Pulling engine and returning to the builder. Engine only has less then 50 min run time. Lets see what he says. I'm thinking new pistons, valves, and maybe another head. I'm sure I'm buying that too.

I'm also going to buy another engine. Who sells stroker short blocks that wall last ~40 to 60,000 miles?

I did a compression test, and the cylinders held air. So, the valves must be good. Engine is running fine, no clicking and no odd sounds. Random check of the new beefier push-rods shows none bent.

The oil on the pistons has me a bit worried, valve seals?

Decided to pull the head anyway.

The round marks on the pistons, they are from the mallet used to install the pistons. I was thinking that may be the case, before I pulled the head. Hard to tell size with that little camera. Once I got the head off, it was very clear those round marks are the remainder of the piston install. Everything looks good. No head gasket issues, no damaged cylinders, no damage on the valves. At this point, looks like the springs / or cam, are too much for stock type push rods.

I took the head to my builder for tear down & inspection (less then 60min run time). I also got new valve seals. He did a quick vacuum test, and valves passed.

Guess the valve springs are just too strong for the "stock" style push rods. I also have an aggressive cam with some lift.

Debating on getting the Edelbrock Head from CLEGGs, and having them install big valves and springs. I'll call and see if they actually have any in stock yet. Should cost about the same as a short block, $2500 to $3000 with big valves... guessing

What springs and cam are you running?