Page 1 of 1
Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?
Posted: December 21st, 2014, 10:40 am
by str8-6
So I'm going to rebuild my engine and there will be new valvesprings and a new camshaft,as I get it the valvesprings should be broken in at 1000-2000 steady rpm's up to full operational temp and then You should shut the engine of and let it cool down,but how do You do when breaking in a new camshaft requiers a totally different break in procedure?
I think I read somewhere that You can compress the valvesprings in a wise to take some tension out of them before installing them on the head,is that a possibility or is my memory pranking me as usual?
I don't have any other weaker springs to use that will accept the valvelift on the new camshaft so that is not an option as I see it,any suggestions from anybody?
Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?
Posted: December 21st, 2014, 12:00 pm
by jsawduste
Put it together with decent spring pressure and run it.
Your overthinking this or have to many friends.
Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?
Posted: December 21st, 2014, 12:18 pm
by akadeutsch
Agreed. Use a zddp additive in the oil and let it rip. 2,500 revs for 20 min.
Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?
Posted: December 21st, 2014, 2:26 pm
by str8-6
Yup I'm like that;overthinking is my midlle name,but I really like it to stay in one piece since it takes a lot of time and money to get stuff shipped to Sweden from the US.
Spring pressure will be OK according to a tech at Crane, installed pressure @ 100 ,open pressure just under 295 on the exhaust lobe,slightly less on the intake.spring rate is 335 lbs/in.,camshaft is a Lunati Vodoo 268/276 (lift : .527 in .548 ex)
Break in will be done with Joe Gibbs Break In oil, and after break in I will use Omega or Kendall Titanium sae 20/50 mineral oil,Kendall is good and has a decent price but Omega Oil is the really good stuff but the price is a bit on the expensive side...
Thanks for the replies guys,good to have a second opinion when not really sure myself.
/Hans
Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?
Posted: December 21st, 2014, 3:46 pm
by SilverXJ
Don't worry about the spring break in procedure. Just perform the cam break in procedure.
Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?
Posted: December 21st, 2014, 4:12 pm
by jsawduste
str8-6 wrote:Yup I'm like that;overthinking is my midlle name,but I really like it to stay in one piece since it takes a lot of time and money to get stuff shipped to Sweden from the US.
Spring pressure will be OK according to a tech at Crane, installed pressure @ 100 ,open pressure just under 295 on the exhaust lobe,slightly less on the intake.spring rate is 335 lbs/in.,camshaft is a Lunati Vodoo 268/276 (lift : .527 in .548 ex)
Break in will be done with Joe Gibbs Break In oil, and after break in I will use Omega or Kendall Titanium sae 20/50 mineral oil,Kendall is good and has a decent price but Omega Oil is the really good stuff but the price is a bit on the expensive side...
Thanks for the replies guys,good to have a second opinion when not really sure myself.
/Hans
Crane tech is commenting on Lunati cams ?
Seat pressure is fine but the open pressures are a bit more then I would like to see.
Why 20w-50 ? 10w-30 is all you need or want. I see a not so happy cam/dist. gear
Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?
Posted: December 21st, 2014, 4:26 pm
by SilverXJ
jsawduste wrote:Why 20w-50 ? 10w-30 is all you need or want. I see a not so happy cam/dist. gear
x2
Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?
Posted: December 21st, 2014, 7:04 pm
by jeepxj3
Spring pressure advice from Crane or Comp Cams Tech, I would trust your friends here before them.
I think that you want a seat pressure about 90-100 pounds, and at max lift around 240-250 pounds, with a spring rate around 275 lb/in.
That seems to be about the average consensus around here.
Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?
Posted: December 24th, 2014, 5:14 pm
by str8-6
Merry Christmas to You all!
Crane recommends above at least 260 for an engine that will rev above 4000 rpm,mine will probably rev around 6000...
20w/50 is the grade I used in this engine since 2009,no sign of wear on the dist.-gear at all,used that grade because the engine was built by worn out used parts laying around in the shop so it was a bit generous with some tolerances to say the least,been punishing the cr*p out of it since 2010 and it's still in one piece but now it's time to step it up a little bit ,decided that after loosing with 2 car-lenghts against a turbocharged BMW one night in late August.so more power natural aspirated and som 75 hp of nitrous on top of that