Jeep Strokers

hey dott how hard would it be to make a fuel rail for 1 of these and what kind of price range? the injector spacing is the same for all years of 4.0 and instead of having quick connects put threaded holes for russell fittings like a -6 or -8 and also have a 1/8 npt threaded hole fora fuel pressure gauge

PM sent for more info.

This idea from Shawn but with the OBD1 return type line that uses the common adjustable FPR.



The primary difference is to have the fuel feed at the end of the rail by #6. Right angle or straight on. Call it a flow through if you wish. That would be a great addition and nobody sells them.

i was actually thinking you could just put a fuel pressure regulator on the unibody by the tank like i did and then have a pressure sending unit on the rail itself and just use russel fittings to connect to the rail. a flow through would be a great idea but your fuel lines would have to come from the front of the engine and that's getting kinda close to moving parts unless you use a 90 fitting then you might as well come in the side of the rail

i was thinking abut taking something like this and making it fit our engines

http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/univers ... -inchhtml/

Ya, but all the fuel rail material is at least $1/inch and more. I'd have to find cheaper material to start with.
I was thinking about using heavy wall round aluminum tubing and welding all the fittings on.

What vehicle did this fuel rail come off of? I need something to measure.

jsawduste wrote:

shawnxj wrote:i was actually thinking you could just put a fuel pressure regulator on the unibody by the tank like i did and then have a pressure sending unit on the rail itself and just use russel fittings to connect to the rail. a flow through would be a great idea but your fuel lines would have to come from the front of the engine and that's getting kinda close to moving parts unless you use a 90 fitting then you might as well come in the side of the rail

Why would the fuel lines have to come from the front of the rail any different then they do now ? In the flow through only the return would be up front, as it is now at a right angle.The whole idea of this is to give #6 (the hottest and furthest away from the waterpump) the first shot of fuel.

Look at the picture above, the feed for the rail is almost on top of the injector feed for #1. Not saying this is bad and that the pressures and flows should be the same but at the same time I see a chance of a cooler fuel delivery to #6 and potentially a better balanced fuel flow through the rail with the flow through design.

The biggest issue would machining or adapting the AFPR portion to the rail itself. Hell I`d be happy with what dott is saying with a tube with welded fittings and mount plates. Even if he just offered a service of modding your own rail.

i guess they wouldn't have to come from the front but there's not alot of room to come from the rear unless we connect on the side and next to or over the #6 injector

personally i'd rather have a rail like the 1 i posted above and have the injector holes drilled out then have to worry about welds leaking or cracking. most aftermarket fuel rails run $100-$200 each and that's an acceptable cost to me. tap 1 end for a fitting to reduce down to a dash fitting then tap the other side for a plug or weld a cap on both ends and have 1 cap threaded. all i really care about is having the ability to put a fuel pressure sending unit on the rail without having to deal with cracked connections. i may just buy a section of that rail and see what i come up with. didn't know they sold blanks until i posted that link

Dott, this one was from a 93 YJ but like Shawn said they are all the same dimension wise on the returnable rails.

Here is one Mike did.


Feed from the rear (to help keep #6 happy) and then wrap the rail with a heat reflecting tape or conduit. That`s an off-ly hot area up there. Recall the FSB on the XJ`s with heat soak and the heat shield panels they applied to the top of the intake ? Gotta believe we can come up with a better solution.

jsawduste wrote: Recall the FSB on the XJ`s with heat soak and the heat shield panels they applied to the top of the intake ? Gotta believe we can come up with a better solution.

The TSB for the heat shield on top of the manifold was actually to keep debris from getting on top the the exhaust and starting a fire. The TSB for the heat soak issue involved wrapping the #3 injector in insulation.

SilverXJ wrote:

jsawduste wrote: Recall the FSB on the XJ`s with heat soak and the heat shield panels they applied to the top of the intake ? Gotta believe we can come up with a better solution.

The TSB for the heat shield on top of the manifold was actually to keep debris from getting on top the the exhaust and starting a fire. The TSB for the heat soak issue involved wrapping the #3 injector in insulation.

Thanks Chris, that info would seem to further prove that offering some type of heat protection would be worthwhile. Even if only minimally as fuel travels the rail.

please delete

Are you fed up with that cheesy fire extinguisher bracket? Here's a hi-tech solution that is way more durable than the sheet metal brackets, and looks cool too!

Quick Mount (and release), holds anything from a fire extinguisher to a flashlight.
You just use the supplied hose clamps to attach it to your roll bar or cage.
It also has countersunk holes if you want to screw it to a flat surface.

Jeep Strokers Member pricing - SILVER $65.00 - $4.50 = $60.50 shipped!

Jeep Strokers Member pricing - BLACK $65.00 - $4.50 = $60.50 shipped!

Link to my ebay store. If the item isn't listed then it is temporarily out of stock.
http://stores.ebay.com/TDS-Aluminum-Pro ... 7675.l2563

Replacement Dana 60 Lockout Knobs

Jeep Strokers Member pricing - $110.00 - $11.00 = $99.00 shipped!
Fully functional and copied from a NOS Spicer knob.
Clear anodized for corrosion protection.

Link to my ebay store. If the item isn't listed then it is temporarily out of stock.
http://stores.ebay.com/TDS-Aluminum-Pro ... 7675.l2563