Genright YJ Fuel Pump for a 4.6 Stroker

[datmony]

I picked up one of these:

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.asp ... DXyyY10x9A

I had bought a Genright fuel cell for the CJ I am building and this seemed to be a nice simple solution. It noted having enough power to handle V8 swaps as described but once I got it physically, I was a bit surprised on how small the pump is. Anyone ran one of these in tank pumps before? Are they sufficient for a 4.6 stroker? At some point I will also likely replace the stroker I just built with a boosted one and curious if this will sufficient to handle something like that as well or if it may make sense to just bite the bullet and buy a different pump now.

Thanks in advance!!! Appreciate all of the great advice to date. Hope you are all well.

[jsawduste]

That is the common aftermarket asm. that you can purchase from a variety of sources. Pricing is all over, from 75-200+ bucks.

Having said that, other then the fuel level portion I am frankly not impressed with them at all. Take an OEM unit and compare side by side.

In fact, if you talk to Gen-Right they will even tell you that same thing. However they wanted the customer to be able to purchase a plug and play so marketing came into the picture.

Take a look at the top plate thickness, wire gage, chintzy little rivet attachment for the ground. Yes it will work and many are using them. Sorry to be a ball buster but my standards are a bit higher. Not trying to be an ass about it but simply honest.

If you can do some fab work then adding a Bosch pump is a good first step. Removing the rivet and installing a sealed through bolt will suffice for a ground. A wire gland pass through will let you run some MARINE grade (14 gage min) wire to the pump.

Also recommend one of these

[datmony]

Thank you for the frankness, I have to say..... that was exactly my take on it too. I was not at all impressed when I got it. I just even was comparing the pump to the external one that I had from Hesco and it was amazing the difference. Not in any way shape or form scared of the fab work as this whole jeep is custom at this point. I far prefer it to be built super well than just "ok, it will work". I always prefer to do things right and do things once. Thanks for the insight.

Anyone have any pics of what they might have done for a YJ style pump? I do like it being a whole unit that can just be dropped in and definitely want a fuel gauge sender such as this might have.

Anyone know where to find just the assembly so I cat put a different pump on it? The one I got from Genright was $275, so I think I might be better off returning it and trying to find the unit itself cheaper with no pump and adding a good pump to it.

How about the regulator? I have and was planning to run the stock newer style regulator that I had got from Hesco to move the regulator off the rail and to the back of the jeep by the pump. Anyone running aftermarket regulators instead? In talking with Bennie at Hesco he noted really preferring the newer style setup and it is nice because you can run AN fittings off of it but would love people's experience there.

Thanks again for the thoughts.

[jsawduste]

Same as you have now. Look up the AA discount codes and buy it even cheaper.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/spec ... ent=120917

Bosch pump from RockAuto.com 60 bucks or so. I can look up the number of the pump. Pretty sure I have another one laying around. 93 YJ

Wire Glands
http://www.mcmaster.com/#wire-glands/=u2vlqn

Shouldered washers for ground stud
http://www.mcmaster.com/#shoulder-spacers/=u2vm9n

Marine wire has a thicker higher corrosive rating jacket then typical TXL automotive wire. More strands per gage and is tinned.
https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/

You have enough here to make you dangerous. Fab on !!

[datmony]

Many thanks, and if you had that bosch part number handy that would be great.

I was also thinking about using the pump that I have from this Hesco kit:

http://www.hesco.us/products/7973/fuel- ... DbfHo10yUk

And adapting that pump to fit onto this sending unit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crown-Automotiv ... da&vxp=mtr

Seems to be basically that same sending unit (years are slightly older) but without the pump. Love the thoughts you have with the McMaster Carr stuff and marine grade wire, totally agree. I have a large tendency to over build things but I also find that when I do that and do it right the first time, I am rarely reworking something later.

Thanks for all of the help, very much appreciated!!

[jsawduste]

BOSCH 9580810019
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php

I was a little off on the price but the Bosch unit is a 1st class in tank set up. I have seen and touched the Hesco set up but not used it. Therefore cannot offer a constructive opinion.

The factory YJ strainer will fit over the lower rubber mount on the sending unit. It will be a bitch getting it fully seated but it will fit snug as it is supposed to.

With your attitude of doing it right the first time we will get along just fine.

[datmony]

Many thanks amigo...... that might be a good option there too as physically it looks to be smaller than the one that I have from Hesco. Would not be bad either because then I can keep the one I have from Hesco as a trail spare in case the in tank one ever goes out and I need to get creative on how to get myself home.

One thing I have definitely learned with this is take your time, think it through, and don't half ass it. The whole reason I am doing the build I am at the moment it to have a jeep that is fully thought out end to end. At one point it was a series of upgrades. While fine at some level, they don't always work into a collective package. By the time this is all done I will have turned every bolt on this thing and know everything intimately end to end. A total labor of love and something that to an untrained eye will look like a mildly lifted CJ7 on 33s.

Once you look a little deeper, 2001 based stroker mated to NV4500/D300 to D44/9" combo with ARBs, custom built national springs, custom built firewall with a Tilton pedal assembly and Wilwood master cylinders mated to Wilwood Chevy d60 3/4 ton dual piston front brakes and ford explorer rear.... Throttle down customs frame.... I am ever so close right now to having a rolling chassis with full drivetrain, exhaust, hardlines, and engine wiring......

This fuel pump deal here is such a minor bump in the road it hardly even registers...... trying to adapt the one steering and make room for a 7" pitman arm but only run 3.5" of lift and still have room for a sway bar that is twice the thickness of stock..... that was interesting.... hahah

[jsawduste]

Strange similarities in logic.

No offense to Dino but if I read Poormans next to your build plan I`ll have to kick your butt.

[datmony]

The stroker in it right now is nothing super special honestly. It was built with some stuff I had from a Golen stroker but in a newer block so I could run the stock 2000+ serpentine setup. I got the entire 2000 motor including intake, rail ,tb, etc and all accessories for a $100...... Seriously one of the best deals I have ever seen. I gave the dude $110 and told him to grab a six pack. Had a broken piston but other than dirty inside was a nice block..... Intake was worth what I paid for the whole motor.....

I went super simple right now as it was the first motor I have built, but I found it really fun to build it so there is definitely a bit more exotic one in the future. For right now, Odb1 with a unichip and the computer from my original hesco CJ mpi kit. I did larger hesco TB and spacer, 2000 intake, banks header to random technologies cat and borla cat back all run straight down drivers side. I have the 7120 that I got on the golen and had it milled and tapped for the same idler as the 0331 for a 2000 stock look.

I really like how the rolling chassis is shaping up....... Feeling like I just got past a few design hurdles here recently.