Might as well stroke it

[Hardwire666]

I have been tossing around the idea of a 4.7 for a while and after a whole lot of reading i have come to the conclusion. Screw it I might as well stroke it.

I'm looking to use the 4.7 Medium Buck stroker combo from http://jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html
The only thing I was considering changing was going to LS1 valves (which seems to have a lot of mixed opinions) and using a Lunati cam.

So far this is what I'm looking at.
3727 crank
4.0 6.125" rods
IC944-060 pistons
Cam Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet 262/268 (probably just buy the kit that comes with lifters)
'99 intake manifold
Large bore TB
port polish and all that good stuff
Larger valves... maybe.
And I will probably stick with the 0630 head

The cam however is what I am most concerned about because of how important it is.
This will be my first build. I'm very technically inclined and tend to do my homework before I just start ripping things apart. Any input would be great thanks in advance.

[Cheromaniac]

Looks like you have your combo pretty well sussed out and I like your choice of cam. You might also wanna have the block milled to zero deck clearance to raise the compression ratio and reduce the quench height.
You'd then need shorter pushrods (probably 9.600") to bring the lifter preload back to normal.

[Hardwire666]

Now that you mention it that brings me to the other stuff I might need.

[Hardwire666]

After some sleep my brain is no longer misfiring. Here are some of the issues I'm very unsure of.

Electronics: ECU tuning, piggy back A/F computers and ECT.
Fuel delivery: Rails, Pumps and what not
Oil and coolant distribution: Expensive pumps or stick with stockers?

I figured since I will be ripping it a part I might as well put in a Cloyes timing set in.

[SilverXJ]

Electronics: ECU tuning, piggy back A/F computers and ECT.

AEM FIC6/FIC8 piggy back or PCM tune ([email protected]). PCM tune is the bettero option as besides adjusting fuel and pulling timing(piggy back) a whole lot of other stuff can be done. Of course a wideband AFR gauge.

Fuel delivery: Rails, Pumps and what not

24 lb/hr injectors. No need for a different fuel pump and I know of no one that changed the fuel rail. Would be nice if someone offered a nice billet piece though.

Oil and coolant distribution: Expensive pumps or stick with stockers?

Not many options for pumps. I recommend Melling then you have the decision between high volume and standard volume. I recommend standard unless you see a need for high volume. Read the oil pump checks in the FAQ section. Also, many other good reads there. A standard coolant pump is fine. But Flowkooler does have a new pump with a billet impeller that looks interesting. I haven't heard anyone trying one yet. Similar to Hesco's impeller.

I figured since I will be ripping it a part I might as well put in a Cloyes timing set in.

Don't skip degreeing the cam in either.

[Joshy]

No need for a different fuel pump and I know of no one that changed the fuel rail. Would be nice if someone offered a nice billet piece though.

I'm sure you've already seen it but you can get extrusion from plenty of places. http://www.efihardware.com/products/c66 ... and-Mounts has extrusion, brackets and fittings. Pretty easy to machine if you've got access to a mill. It'd look tidy but the only gain I can see would be the ease of fitting an adjustable FPR.

[SilverXJ]

Unfortunately I lost access to a mill sometime ago.

I was just tossing ideas around with jsawduste about fuel rails and fuel flow. For a system that has a return it may be beneficial to run the cool fuel from the rear of the rail and put the return at the front. Not as long as a run for the cooler fuel to hit the rear thus providing possibly cooler fuel to the hot #6 cylinder. Also, the rear of the engine bay will condense heat more so the fuel will heat up to a lesser extent as it flows to the front of the bay.

[Hardwire666]

Could it really be that easy to find a 3727 crank?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0364

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cran ... rebuilders

[Hardwire666]

Well after searching and searching and searching and found nothing so then I searched some more. I have decided I'm gonna go with a SCAT crank. The 4wt and proper nose length is just to damn hard to find.
After Moths of reading and mulling over post after post this is what I have com up with.

Scat Crank
4.0 6.125" rods
IC944-060 pistons
Cam Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet 262/268 (probably just buy the kit that comes with lifters)
'99 intake manifold
A http://www.strokedjeep.com/tbody.html 64mm TB
port polish and all that good stuff
Stock valves
0630 head
Victor reinz HS5713Z & CS5713X gaskets
Flow daddy header or I might get ballsy and make one.
Still toying around with the idea of dual electric fans

Here is what i was able to get with the Calculator


If any one sees any potential problems let me know.

[jeepxj3]

Look at Bulltear pistons.

[Hardwire666]

Wow for a good $200 less looks like a winner to me.