Going to get started soon

[optmaxx]

So, I figure it's time to get a new engine for my YJ, and I've been seriously considering getting a stroker. I've done my research, and yeah, some have said to go with a V8, but I don't think I want to deal with rewiring and replacing other parts for the V8; with the stroker I figure I can just drop it in and get up to 200+ HP, and that should be enough for a daily driver. But I have some questions.

So, I've considered some options. I can build one from formulas listed, buy an ATK stroker or...look into that one Titan complete engine kit that you have to assemble. I know Titan has a very very bad rep, but being able to see the parts they send you already disassembled (including the block) and see any flaws before putting it together sounds pretty good, plus it's about $2000 for the kit. Has anyone tried that complete engine kit?

Also, I've been trying to figure out which would be more worth it cost wise. From what I can tell, building a stroker yourself can run me anywhere from $2000 to $3000 including the machine work? The ATK stroker is about 3000 and it comes assembled, plus it has good reviews, and the Titan kit is about 2000. Has anyone build one for under 2000? What would be the benefits of building one yourself? More HP? Probably being able to run 87 octane gas too huh?

I'm trying to figure out which way to go cause I can get the donor parts at a JY for about 600-700, but the machine work will add to that, and I can't just run the 4.0 cam huh? Is changing the cam and rods part of the build process, or can I leave the 4.0 cam and rods in? I would like to able to run 87 octane though...

Thanks.

[rammit11]

I built mine from the titan kit . I had the pistons dished to the max by a member on the strokers site, Oletshot, (he did an excellent job and at a very reasonable price as well). I had the work done on the block by a local shop . I have had no major issues so far (around 5000 miles so far) . I had one issue of brain fart in that I was running the stock plugs and had some pinging issues that were corrected after talking to flyinryan and got the correct heat range of plugs in.

[optmaxx]

Thanks! What did you have done to the block? Did you get the kit that comes with the block too?

[Cheromaniac]

Has anyone build one for under 2000? What would be the benefits of building one yourself? More HP? Probably being able to run 87 octane gas too huh?

I built mine 10 years ago for much less than $2000 but parts/labor costs have risen since then so it would be challenging to build anything other than a "poor man's" stroker for under $2000 these days.
Building one yourself can be fun and you can build it any way you like but it's also time-consuming, requires a lot of effort, and you'll need to know what parts to look for.
Unless you're prepared to do a lot of the labor yourself, you might be better off buying an off-the-shelf complete stroker engine from Golen or ATK.

[rammit11]

I got all the internals from them: scat crank ,all bearings , 4.2 rods , .03 over pistons and rings, cam , all gaskets and seals , block plugs etc. I just had the block cleaned bored and completely gone thru as per standard rebuild practices. I left the head stock other than changing to ls 1 valves iirc 1.61 intake and same size exhaust .

[optmaxx]

So I bought a used '96 4.0 block and I sent it off to the machine shop along with a '95 4.0 head. The cylinder walls looked ok to me, and I hope it's all still rebuildable cause as far as I know no work has been done to the block, but I guess I'll find out in a few days. Now I have some questions for the parts I'll need to get.

I plan on getting a good used 4.2 crank and rods, and then buy a rebuild kit for the 4.0, it just seems a little cheaper. I'm just waiting to see what size pistons the shop tells me to order. I don't plan to go crazy with the build because it's my DD, but it seems going with another cam is the way to go, right? I know you can run a stuck 4.0 cam, but what cam is recommended for a daily driver? Also, is there a rebuild kit for the 4.0 you guys recommend? Can't wait! Something about getting new car parts that makes me happy.

[jsawduste]

Don`t use the short 4.2 rods. Use the longer 4.0`s. Make sure the center to center and twist is checked and corrected.

[Retlaw01XJ]

The later stock cam works well. If you go to a cam with much more lift, you'll need to use different valve springs, retainers and might need to have the head machined to fit the different springs.... that all adds to the cost. I went with a Crower 44243 which is a bit bigger than stock but still works with the stock valvetrain.

I got a rebuild kit from Falcon Global on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-engine-kit ... 5187471969

You can upgrade some of the components for a slightly higher cost.... I went with moly rings, Clevite bearings instead of Kings, and brass freeze plugs. Also got ARP rod bolts for my 4.0 rods. Best to call them and discuss options. Good folks to deal with.

4.0 rods will require the KB forged pistons. They're pricey right now.

[optmaxx]

Thanks, I'll probably stick with the stock cam, it looks pretty good. Now it seems like figuring out which rods and pistons to use will be a little tough cause I've read not to use long rods with 4.0 pistons and if you do you have to buy very expensive pistons. I did read that longer rods are better for the engine though...

[akadeutsch]

I have seen very little actual data to support the claim that the long rods will last longer than the short rods. The 258 was known to be a long lasting and reliable engine. I understand the theory...that the shorter rod creates a larger angle in relation to the rod and the piston boar and I understand that this greater angle could create more friction. But I have yet to see any definitive data crucifying the short rods.
I used the short rods because you can then use cheaper hypereutectic pistons. I payed 101 dollars for a set of sealed power 802 +.030 slugs and that is at least a couple hundred dollars cheaper than the KBs. And unless you are going to force induce this beast a good hyper piston is IMO a better choice that a forged piston. I know others will disagree but facts are facts...a hyper piston allows for a tighter piston to wall clearance and tighter clearances = less blow-by = more power. And also I don't know where you live but the forged pistons might rattle on a cold start. And again this is my opinion, cold start rattle could do just as much damage as the higher rod angle of the shorter rods.
Using the shorter rods WILL allow the use of cheaper, (better fitting) pistons....Bring on the hate.
I would like to know a few things.
Where will this rig be built and driven?
What is the intended use?
expected HP goals?
Your budget?

[jsawduste]

It`s not the rod itself but the geometry and efficiency the longer rod provides.

[optmaxx]

I live in San Diego, and I plan on going with a simple build because it's my daily driver, and I drive a good distance to work. My YJ has the 4.2 with a junk yard mpi upgrade including a 4.0 head, but I found out recently that the rings are bad in all of the cylinders so it's time for a rebuild. At first I thought to just through in a 4.0, but then I figured well, since I'm going to be in there, why not make a simple stroker. I want to keep it simple because I figure the simpler it is, the more reliable and easy it'll be for me. I want to make it as close to a regular rebuild as possible. I was basing my info on Dino's site and that's where I got the idea to use 4.2 rods with the pistons, and my build would probably be closer to the poor man's stroker so whatever power gains I get from that I'll be happy with.

Right now I sent a '96 block and a '95 head to the machine shop and I'm waiting for them to tell me what size pistons I'll need before I order my pistons. I also ordered a used 4.2 3727 crank that will need to be polished, and head bolts. Now, can I order a rebuild kit that comes with rings and bearings for 4.0 even if I'm using a 4.2 crank? Can those rings be used used if I need to order bigger pistons? I ask cause there are some kits that don't have the pistons, and I figure I can order those while I wit to find out what piston size I'll need.

[jsawduste]

There are ways to do it and ways to do it right, your choice.

[nicpaige]

Wait until you get some info back from your machine shop. You will need to know your finish bore size for the pistons and rings, your crankshaft specs to order your bearings.

[optmaxx]

I got good news. I called the shop and they said that the block checked out good and it didn't even need to be bored, so it looks like I can use standard size pistons. It's a relief to find that the block is in good condition because I kind took a gamble by buying it off of Craigslist for $100, and that was for the whole long block. I'm still waiting for my crank to come in the mail.