Jeep Strokers

SilverXJ wrote:

.004" cam end play:

You removed the roller timing set and replaced it with a standard type?

<bump> great resource thread.

And just placed a call to ATI for a damper with sales guy named Rob…<shrugs> I don't know him was just the first guy the desk receptionist forwarded me to.

ATI Super Damper approx 3 months lead time. and $750

snout diameter needed and a custom order form completed.

I was looking for something like this and sure enough you seem to pave a road for me again.

Thanks Chris.

Did you find the document to reference with ATI?

Upon calling them and speaking with sales rep. I gave him all the reference data you had posted here. Your order no., date, and any other identifying information. He still requested the snout specs and told me it was no less then a 3 month lead time. I'll call and probably place the order next week. I'll call Castillo's cranks this friday to get a 4 digit snout number for placing the order.

Hey Chris have you ever dyno'd this thing - or - are you planning on it before or after the SC to note improvements?

I intend to put it on a dyno prior to the SC install. I need to put some work into my tune.. its slightly off and I want it as best as possible for the dyno run.

I thought you had ? christuned tune your ecu?

For the most part he did. He tuned closed loop, low rpm driveability and the other features he can modify and got pretty close on the open loop. But I previously had an AEM FIC6.. and I like playing so I'll get my open loop AFR just right myself. Then I;ll go back and have him apply the changes to the PCM. But I may wait until I play with tuning the MP90 and if I run into somethin I can't do I'll have to get him to do it.

Wow.
Just. Wow.

I still want to build my 4.6 or 4.7...

but wow.

Congrats on getting it running, and much respect for keeping at it.

I can't believe you pulled the cam again after getting it on the road finally. tff

ke7fck wrote:I still want to build my 4.6 or 4.7...

Not all strokers have cam bearing issues. There are a few though.

Congrats on getting it running, and much respect for keeping at it.

I wasn't going to let this simple engine win, but it seems like I was the first one to get bit by the cam bearing failure. I still don't know the mechanism that causes the cam to walk.

I can't believe you pulled the cam again after getting it on the road finally. tff

I wanted a different cam with more low end torque and that thrust plate was definitely something I wanted.

It currently has around 15,000 or so miles on it. I do need to get it on a dyno soon though.

I'm currently in the midst of going through this ass-pain right now. I had the engine built at Golen and had my dad install it for me while I was in Afghanistan. He ended up putting an extra 6 quarts of oil in it because he thought it was empty. He checked it when it was laying on it side when it first arrived. I had wear on my timing cover and thrust bearings and had legitimate transmission problems.

He pulled the original engine out but didn't put the new one from Golen in for about a good year. So my transmission was fully exposed to the elements. Whenever I put it in reverse it kicked hard and jerked backwards. The shop I have my jeep at now called me to inform me of the "unusual thrust bearing wear" which is what lead me to the conclusion it was probably my transmission. I never had any knock and I have a 2000 model as well. You did replace your transmission and it's possible that was a contributing factor at the very beginning if you did indeed have internal pressure problems. THat would explain why the cam-bearing failures changed nature between cams if you swapped transmissions at the same time.

I (unknowingly) ordered a purple MOPAR cam that was for the 87-97 era 4.0 engines which didn't use the thrust plate design. I ended up having to switch from the Cloyles dual roller setup to an OEM style with the new cam. I didn't think anything of the differences in design about the thrust plate... but now that I've read this I need to call them and find out how exactly they got around it. It's a 4.6 with a sprintex supercharger and a stock valve train (I've had failed strokers in the past with cam-lobe wear out, so I specified I wanted a bone stock cam and valve train from Golen to eliminate the possibility of another engine failure).

So by using the older style cam design with the stock components from an older era 4.0 with a 2000 block I should be OK?

What is your recommendation on the oil pump? I have the HV from Hesco. I got it back in 2011. There's a "blue printed" one listed on there now, but I don't recall spending $160 on an oil pump from them and have nothing in my email from that time concerning the order for me to know which one I got.

-FYI- I I burned out 3 cam-synchronizers over the first 2 months after it was running. At about the 30 minute mark on the first drive after it was completely installed it started giving that harsh-gear-lash vibration on decceleration. I sense that I should have that pump replaced... but part of me wants to let it go as is and see if it was the transmission fore-aft movement that was pushing the crank that was pulling the cam-gear and cam that was causing that problem. But another, larger, part of me doesn't want to find out that that wasn't the case and have to replace another cam.

Coffee Commando wrote: You did replace your transmission and it's possible that was a contributing factor at the very beginning if you did indeed have internal pressure problems.

The transmission was fine and nothing changed after the swap.

So by using the older style cam design with the stock components from an older era 4.0 with a 2000 block I should be OK?

If you do something other than the stock pin and spring setup. If you are using a stock grind cam I would just go with the thrust plate design. Even with the stock valve train you are running 1.7:1 roller rockers which does put more force on the cam.

I have the HV from Hesco.

Consider creating a cam gear oiling setup and don't run heavy weight oils. 10w-40 or lesser.

I'm not sure what you mean about the oiling setup. I read through the posts but I only remember you mentioning doing it. How do you do that. ?

EDIT: Just spoke to Hesco and they said to never run synthetic oil in the 4.0 or 4.6 because it will cause a cam-gear failure. I previously was using Mobil-1 full synthetic.

I'm ordering a stock 4.0 replacement pump with a Denso oil filter from RockAuto.com and investigating alternative oiling configurations in regards to cam-gear lubrication

Coffee Commando wrote:I'm not sure what you mean about the oiling setup. I read through the posts but I only remember you mentioning doing it. How do you do that. ?

EDIT: Just spoke to Hesco and they said to never run synthetic oil in the 4.0 or 4.6 because it will cause a cam-gear failure. I previously was using Mobil-1 full synthetic.

I'm ordering a stock 4.0 replacement pump with a Denso oil filter from RockAuto.com and investigating alternative oiling configurations in regards to cam-gear lubrication

EDIT 2: I just spoke to the technician working on my engine. He said they were able to use the cam thrust plate with my original cloyles dual roller timing gears. It's the Purple MOPAR Cam (PN: 4529228AD for '87-'97 model year 4.0's). Should I be worried...?