Check list for stroker break in.

[Defcon92]

I had a shop built a mini stroker using this site. 4.2l with a mopar 230 that I've had possession of for about 6 years new in its box. Its a ported head, .060 over, 9.1:1 SCR & .043 quench height, it's going into my 92 xj 5 speed 4x4. Now I feel I should ask some questions. What's should I look at replacing from the old motor before I run this new motor? Also looking at my filter choice & oil to run on break in & after.

So far I have 2 20ox bottles of zddp MAXX from ebay. Thinking 1/2-1 bottle for break in & 2nd bottle for first oil change, or should I do 1/2 bottle for first 2 oil changes?
I have 5 new Mobil 1 m1-303 filters. Good choice or replace it?
I got new gates radiator hoses, both top & bottom.
New stock radiator.
Accel tune up kit with champion rc12lyc (stock plugs)
Rebuilt & tested 703s.

Thinking new serp belt, maybe idler pulley? What else should be done or at least looked at?

Also oil choice. For break in I was thinking 5w40 delo or rotello, maybe royal purple? Any other suggestions or better choices?
For running after break in I was thinking about PYB (pennzoil yellow bottle) in a 10w30 flavor after reading some reviews & uoas on bobtheoilguy.com. I guess its quiet in a 4.0 due to the moly coating the surfaces, also was showing low iron & suitable zinc from what I can tell? Good or bad? Should I look at running a 40w over the 30?

Coolant wise. Should I get 50/50 or Preston's & distilled water? What mixture to run? Easily over 100* temps & hardly, if ever goes below 32*. Think 30 coolant/70 water for extra cooling ability, yet enough antifreeze to keep it safe?
Thermostat..I'm thinking a 180*.. Anyone gainst it?

Am I missing anything? Any helps appreciated guys.

[Defcon92]

1 thing I'd like to add is my chamber size. 1-5 is 66c while #6 is 69cc. Yes checked 3 times over. Its the hottest cylinder usually but should I maybe lessen the gap on this plug? Will it effect my motor? Kinda iffy about it.

[Defcon92]

bump..any help out there?

[RenoF250]

1 thing I'd like to add is my chamber size. 1-5 is 66c while #6 is 69cc. Yes checked 3 times over. Its the hottest cylinder usually but should I maybe lessen the gap on this plug? Will it effect my motor? Kinda iffy about it.

Odd, bigger chamber should = lower compression lower temp. No reason to mess with plug gap that I can think of.

The rest of the stuff is opinion. Here is mine - Champion plugs suck, I like Autolite. You are overthinking the oil. Any good SN rated oil should be fine. I prefer Napa/Wix filters but the Mobil filters are fine. It is a straight 6, not an exotic race engine.

For coolant I like the red ELC because it is lifetime. Not much more money than the green just kind of hard to find.

[6TIME]

Here's a few things that I've found very successful with many of the flat tappet builds I've done in recent years.

- Use high quality lifters when using aftermarket cams. Especially with the 4.0 cams with narrow lobes..
- Verify proper valve spring pressures!
- Check the cam bearing journal finish closely to prevent any potential cam bearing wear issues. Polish if in question.
- Good oil with ZDDP (Looks like you are dialed on this one)
- Tee in a small analog 1-1/2" pressure gauge where the oil pressure sending unit is to visually confirm pressure while under the hood.
- People might think this is overkill, but I have someone prime the motor up to pressure, while I crank it by hand 2 full revolutions to make sure oil is filled throughout the main and cam galleys,bearings, lifters and crank/rod journal passages.
- Have a IR handheld heat gun (laser pointer is best) handy to confirm surface temps on the cylinder head, oil pan, radiator, etc...
- Don't run it steady at a given rpm. This creates heat, especially on the new components that are seating together ie cam/lifters and cylinder/rings. Heat is your enemy during the break in process. I start a 25 min timer after fire up, and basically rev the motor from 1200-3000ish for the duration. This allows components to heat up and cool instead of heating up and never getting the chance to cool as it would with steady rpms. I haven't had a break in or low mile cam/lifter failure with this technique yet. I have however, observed many cam/lifter failures in various types of motors with the steady rpm technique.....
-180* T stat is perfect.

These are tips that I've learned from many different types of performance engine builds. Of these, 4 have been 4.0 or 4.6 stroker setups. Just throwing them out there for potential advice if you'd like to learn things from mistakes made of my own or mistakes I've observed made by others... Good luck.

[Defcon92]

1 thing I'd like to add is my chamber size. 1-5 is 66c while #6 is 69cc. Yes checked 3 times over. Its the hottest cylinder usually but should I maybe lessen the gap on this plug? Will it effect my motor? Kinda iffy about it.

Odd, bigger chamber should = lower compression lower temp. No reason to mess with plug gap that I can think of.

The rest of the stuff is opinion. Here is mine - Champion plugs suck, I like Autolite. You are overthinking the oil. Any good SN rated oil should be fine. I prefer Napa/Wix filters but the Mobil filters are fine. It is a straight 6, not an exotic race engine.

For coolant I like the red ELC because it is lifetime. Not much more money than the green just kind of hard to find.

Last cyl is alwayst he hottest I've heard. So my point was since its 3cc bigger it would help with that. However, since it's bigger & is the odd ball cly should i be worried about a misfire or would fit cause any issues?
I'm running the mobile & now have 24, yes 24 motorcraft fl1as. Couldn't refuse 24 at 40 bucks bitog seems to love em as well.
Oil on brake in will be 5w40 delo with 1 zddp bottle. 2 also delo. 5w40 with 1/2 bottle of zddp maxx, 3rd & 4th oil change will be good old pennzoil yellow bottle at 5w30 or 10w30 with 1/4 bottle of zddp maxx. And from then out just straight oil. Probably drop the pan after the 2nd change.

Gonna look into the t fitting & oil pressure gauge under the hood. I really like that & I may even be able to go off my remote oil filter setup! Its a trans dapt. #1113. Really just for ease of filter replacement

[Defcon92]

Here's a few things that I've found very successful with many of the flat tappet builds I've done in recent years.

- Use high quality lifters when using aftermarket cams. Especially with the 4.0 cams with narrow lobes..
- Verify proper valve spring pressures!
- Check the cam bearing journal finish closely to prevent any potential cam bearing wear issues. Polish if in question.
- Good oil with ZDDP (Looks like you are dialed on this one)
- Tee in a small analog 1-1/2" pressure gauge where the oil pressure sending unit is to visually confirm pressure while under the hood.
- People might think this is overkill, but I have someone prime the motor up to pressure, while I crank it by hand 2 full revolutions to make sure oil is filled throughout the main and cam galleys,bearings, lifters and crank/rod journal passages.
- Have a IR handheld heat gun (laser pointer is best) handy to confirm surface temps on the cylinder head, oil pan, radiator, etc...
- Don't run it steady at a given rpm. This creates heat, especially on the new components that are seating together ie cam/lifters and cylinder/rings. Heat is your enemy during the break in process. I start a 25 min timer after fire up, and basically rev the motor from 1200-3000ish for the duration. This allows components to heat up and cool instead of heating up and never getting the chance to cool as it would with steady rpms. I haven't had a break in or low mile cam/lifter failure with this technique yet. I have however, observed many cam/lifter failures in various types of motors with the steady rpm technique.....
-180* T stat is perfect.

These are tips that I've learned from many different types of performance engine builds. Of these, 4 have been 4.0 or 4.6 stroker setups. Just throwing them out there for potential advice if you'd like to learn things from mistakes made of my own or mistakes I've observed made by others... Good luck.

Mopar 230 was discontinued but I've got it which has wide lobes I believe like stock. I'm using Johnson hylift liters after reading how much Chris(silverxj) liked them. Ill post my spring pressure numbers in the next couple days when I verify it.
What should be my surface temps when checking? I have no clue lol.
Since I had a shop build the motor, I'd like to check the valve lash. What should it be with 1.7 Yella Terra's? Anything special I should do with these for break in?

Still need to get my powersteering brackets from a 99-01 xj

[6TIME]

Basically the IR hea

What should be my surface temps when checking? I have no clue lol.

I use it basically to confirm the engine temp during break in. It will vary depending on the thermostat used. If you are using a 180* then you shouldn't see anything over 200, Unless your taking a reading right near an exhaust port. I use the IR gun and the oil pressure gauge so I can stay under the hood and keep an eye on the motor... not having to bounce back and forth between the cab and the engine bay. Head, block, and oil pan temps should be similar when the motor is up to temp, with the head usually running a tad warmer.