Jeep Strokers

Good point about the pressure, I wasn't thinking about that. Guess that will just be extra space in radiator unused. Currently planning on keeping me external trans-cooler. I find myself running short on grill space for external coolers. [ ac condensor, radiator, external trans-cooler, and adding intercooler & oil cooler]. I am considering redoing grill/bumper/headlight setup at this time. I really don't like the cheap plastic bumpers with the clips they put on. Anytime I have had to step on front bumper for changing my oil filter it takes a toll on that thing.

/r
B

The line diameter for the radiator transmission cooler is also way too small for an oil cooler.

I'm seriously considering piston cooling oil jets. Looking at the underside and tryen to figure out where would I tap the line. The galley from cam and then a place to bolt them to. I know that quite a few engines use them. The one I have researched the most is the Toyota 1FZ-FE 4.5L (2JZ's big brother). That 1FZ with a 4 valve per chamber DOHC setup has been recorded putting out 1700hp. Not that I am shooting for the hp as much as the low end grunt. But considering the goal of 20-30lbs of boost - the 1/2 block fill - longer warm ups - possible harder cool down from larger heat sync... multiple reasons I see to consider this option to control temps inside.

2nd opt - Unless I possibly run a "Y" split off the mains w/ a 90 degree twist and a slight 30-45 degree squirt tip. Thinking HV Oil pump would be a must and with external oil cooler and larger filter. That should add another 1-1.5 quarts of oil to move through.

3rd opt - A stand alone copper/brass line directly from inside block off the distributor/oil pump. Run 1 feed line cross the block between main and cylinder bore. Then "T" split it and drill holes in webbing and drill and tap block (opposite side of cam) and mount. Possible angle would hit thrust side of the piston back a little better for cooling... maybe...

Going off the main pick up would bring cooler oil. And doing a stand alone line wouldn't risk loss of oiling from the other oil galley's. Thinking just run it over the webbing with some attachment points on webbing. Either using clips or better yet a through bolt/nut setup. That would be really bad to not have that secured and entertaining that in the low end during operation. But with proper planning shouldn't be an issue. (thinking out loud in writing...)

any thoughts, links, experience... I welcome constructive insights to this.

/r
B

This came today…

POWERMASTER

John "In Returns" helped with coordinating the receiving and return after I painted the casing.






Stats of Alternator on Dyno Testing Machine


This is a upgrade plug and play replacement. I was given other options for it but just stuck with the factory setup for now. I have limited experience in this area.

Thanks much for helping me sort this out and for the nice upgrade Alternator for my Project POWERMASTER.

cheers,
B

For what im sure you paid for that alternator you probably could have had one built for 1/4 the price. In addition, it says the "idle" output is 107amps at 2400RPM. Seems to me like the output of this thing wouldn't be that great unless you had it revving at 5000 RPM's all day long.

IDK but, At 800 rpm idle and the 6.375" crank pulley, and the small alt pulley, probably about 3:1 ratio and the alt would be at about 2400 rpm.

So doing quite a bit of research still on turbo setup I want to run. I recently purchased a Holset off a 2003 dodge ram 2500. It is definitely in need of rebuilding with the shaft play. Stock it has a 9cm housing = to about .63 a/r turbine housing. It can flow 55-60lbs top end / peak efficiency it I was reading the maps I came across. And putting out 35-40psi without much issue. I am debating going with a larger turbine housing to ensure lower egt but wrestling with when boost will come on. 12cm=0.73, 14cm=0.88, 16cm=1.00

And those a/r to cm numbers seem to carry on different sites for example 16cm = 1.13
I am considering a 16cm turbine housing. Any thoughts on turbo specs for this would be wonderful.

build specs refresher:
4.66L
forged 2618 pistons
forged conrods
4.2 12cw crankshaft (cryo'd/nitrided)
280 duration cam 41 IVC (cryo'd/nitrided)
big valve cylinder head 2.02 int/1.6 exh
port & polished cylinder head
95 ZJ/GC

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Took it apart to find more fun stuff to tend to.

I knew when I purchased it that it had excessive play in the rotating assembly and needed to be rebuilt.
Time to bust out the evapo-rust and soak it some.

So far seems like a decent deal for $115 w/ shipping for genuine holset. Even if the turbo is going to need rebuild.

Oh come to find out because of the vband setup to the chra/turbine housing I am limited to turbine housing options.
3539085 was the 16cm given to me from Holset dealer for the other option. That or i stick with the 9cm housing.

After soaking over night in Evapo-Rust.
I had been introduced to it at SEMA last year. A rep for the company gave me a few small bottles. I have used it several times since. Easy on the skin, not real caustic, has a little funny scent to it but not bad. I took the chra out a few times to just brush/rub off the oxidation.











Also after talking with a Genuine Holset rep. rebuild kit for RA p/n 4031484
Listing as an HE351W rebuild kit
Both of the housings are going to need to be cleaned up some because of the galling. Plus I am going to have to replace the turbine and compressor wheel do to the galling/scrapping they did on the housing.

Still looking around for which setup I am going to run for both wheels. And since I am going to go with new ones going a little bigger is my thought and machining away some of the housing to allow for fitment.

Got the crank(s) and camshaft(s) back from machining, cryo, nitriding. That stuff was not cheap.
-$100 for machine work per crank
-$100 cryo per crank
-$175 for nitriding per crank
-$145 cam nitiriding(ion)
-$25 per cam for cryo

I did cryo all parts before nitiriding.
Castillo's Crankshaft in La Mirada, CA
(Joe Castillo Owner/Operator)

Engine block at Machine Shop
Costa Mesa R&D Automotive Machine Shop
Is doing the block work. Was the only local shop that had everything…
oven to cure glyptal,
Torque honing plate for the block - other shops I checked didn't have it and said they would do it if i bought it. GHB sells the plate for about $850
Align Hone Mains
Clean up lifter bores

RaceTec will most likely be doing my pistons for me
found this thread on the net reg: RaceTec http://www.performanceboats.com/gn7-dyn ... stons.html


cheers,
Brian

Oil tech for break in and assembly link.

http://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/EngineOil2.php

Last weekend I scored an entire 2000 WJ for $300 - engine started right up. It sustained front end damage enough to damage the front cross members a/c condenser and radiator. Front left fender smash in so far it shattered the power steering pulley- driver side tires both flat. One tire had the rim smashed and broke the webbing the other pinch on the side wall about 5-6 inches of the tire making both tires i believe un-repairable. Not sure if the axles where tweaked at all. My thought is taking the front steering, knuckles, and rotors for my ZJ.





So bought it and used one of my Free AAA tows to get it to my pull apart location. Been working on that this weekend got a little sunburn too...

posting as reference.

This first link ZJ is for a newer ZJ then what I have and have noticed some differences between the two disassembly.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/32-s ... a-1398459/

WJ disassembly link

https://kennethg2000.wordpress.com/2012 ... placement/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JM_oGK1DVXw

Does using longer than 6 inch rods with a 4+ inch stroke create any rod to block clearance problems?