Jeep Strokers

Been running the 7120 head with the Hesco spacer and Mopar roller rockers. Also in the mix is the factory aluminum valve cover that features the pedestal breathers.

Recently found out that the steel covers have a full length baffle for the CCV rather then the two simple pedestals the aluminum has. Interested in this steel VC as it would seem to be an upgrade. Found a used steel VC for cheap but now I am not convinced I can clean the "upper" portion of the baffle to my liking.

Rockauto sells a Dorman replacement that is reasonably priced but before I spend the $$ I wanted to double check that the rockers will clear the baffle. Running a .470 lift cam FWIW.

From what I`ve found out this cover is used on TJ, XJ and ZJ`s from 97-04 ish.

Knowledge, comments welcome.

Thanks

I don't know about the Mopar units, but both Harland Sharp Adjustable and Yella Terra Adjustable won't clear the steel valve cover baffle w/o the spacer. However, using the spacer will allow them to clear. The Mopar units should be in the same boat.

BTW, Meant to call you back last night, but didn't get around to it.

He's right with mopar ones you need the spacer. What is the benefit in having a steel valve cover over the cast aluminum? It's lighter?

IMO the steel cover has a better gasket.

SilverXJ wrote:IMO the steel cover has a better gasket.

That I would agree with Chris.

Here is a write up I stumbled across. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4-0l ... p-1503171/

IMHO the steel baffle is much more efficient in separating oil and vapors then the two simple pedestals that I am currently using.

Find if to be a bit of a coincidence that Mopar changed over the design at the same time OBD2 emissions went into effect.

The CCV on my stroker is as follows. The rear elbow (with the orifice) is hooked directly to manifold vacuum. The front elbow is attached to the CAI tube with a welded in aluminum bung. My logic is suggesting that there is a venturi effect (vacuum) on the front elbow which may be pulling a bit of oil through the open elbow. A slight misting of oil residue in the intake tube and the top of the TB plate seem to support this theory. Thus the effort of changing VC`s.

Chris I got your call but we are just finishing up celebrating Danielle's birthday. Who would of thought a girl would have liked a set of driving lights and camo seat covers for her TJ.

jsawduste wrote:IMHO the steel baffle is much more efficient in separating oil and vapors then the two simple pedestals that I am currently using.

Not sure of that, but I also wouldn't doubt it. The two towers also have a small kind of baffle in side of them. The towers do go lower, which could be better or worse. I do know that the aluminum cover can benefit from cleaning the baffles.

Find if to be a bit of a coincidence that Mopar changed over the design at the same time OBD2 emissions went into effect.

Interesting observation. I never put two and two together.

The CCV on my stroker is as follows. The rear elbow (with the orifice) is hooked directly to manifold vacuum. The front elbow is attached to the CAI tube with a welded in aluminum bung. My logic is suggesting that there is a venturi effect (vacuum) on the front elbow which may be pulling a bit of oil through the open elbow. A slight misting of oil residue in the intake tube and the top of the TB plate seem to support this theory. Thus the effort of changing VC`s.

Do you notice any oil being pulled in through the rear tube to the manifold? Could be that the back baffle, orifice or hose is in need of a cleaning. A venturi effect is likely as well.

Since you are interested in changing the cover have you thought of finding 2 steel covers, cutting them and having the two welded together to form a taller one?

Chris I got your call but we are just finishing up celebrating Danielle's birthday. Who would of thought a girl would have liked a set of driving lights and camo seat covers for her TJ.

LOL. Thats cool.

Stick with the aluminum cover. Even though it uses an antique gasket , it does utilize torque limiting features and plenty of bolts ! As an upgrade in the past on a renix ,i have replaced the metered orfice gromet in the back with a cheapy gromet and valve from an old v-8 chev application.

racing89 wrote: it does utilize torque limiting features and plenty of bolts

What do you mean by this?

i think hes talking about the little nubs that stick out of the bottom, so you can only tighten it so far then it stops and doesn't crush the gasket. I didn't even use a gasket on mine just rtv'ed the crap out of it..... still no leaks

In that case the steel cover has torque limiting spacers as well.

SilverXJ wrote:In that case the steel cover has torque limiting spacers as well.

Add at the dealer they are 11.78 each x 15 = A hell of a lot more then I`d be willing to pay.

If not for a friend whom has a ventilated block 4.0 and is doing a 5.3 swap I`d make something up or use a dose of common sense when tightening. Spec is only 11 pounds which anit much.

jsawduste wrote:Add at the dealer they are 11.78 each x 15 = A hell of a lot more then I`d be willing to pay.

Can the dealer even get them? Most of the Chrysler online sites list them as n/a. Hesco does list them for $2.13 each.. still quite a bit.
Part number for future reference is 53020598AB

Dealer said he could........Never thought of Hesco. Thanks for the heads up.
on the part number.

Since it is really just a compress limiter for the gasket even something from McMaster Carr and their sleeve selection would work. Too friggen cold out to screwing around the pick and pull. I am an impatient sob that doesn't want to wait for warmer weather. Luckily my buddy sent his yesterday.

jsawduste wrote: McMaster Carr and their sleeve selection would work.

I looked at their spacers with an integrated flange.. nothing that would work. Shoulder screws may work. Worse case an appropriate spacer/bushing with a separate washer on top.

The gasket set comes with plastic bushings that snap into the mounting holes of the VC. The ID of the bushings is about 3/8ths. So a simpler 3/8ths OD sleeve would fit so long as the ID of the sleeve itself is large enough for the fastener. Length can be adjusted via a mill as necessary but McMaster has a variety of lengths available so close should be good enough.

Bolt, washer, sleeve, install, done.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 15780659-p

http://www.mcmaster.com/#unthreaded-ste ... rs/=qdteqe