Mikey's Stroker build

[John]

If you run hard lines clear through, again I do not, you wrap a short coil to provide flex just before your connection at the wheel cylinder.
John

[Mgardiner1]

Alrighty! took an 8 hour round trip yesterday, and i now have an 8.8 axle! I pulled it apart yesterday, and was pretty shocked at how clean the oil and all of the gear faces were. All of the bearings were tight, and even the LSD was still tight. The discs were worn as to be expected, but not trashed like i figured they'd be. I've ordered new rotors, brake pads, and parking brake shoes and hardware, and the brake hose i should need. I sandblasted the outter housing this afternoon and hauled it over to work to give it a bath with the hot water pressure washer. The insides are nice and clean and just about ready to be rebuilt. I still need to slide hammer out the outter axle bearings, and the 2 pinion races. I also need to get a coat of primer on it before it rusts all to crap. Tomorrow after work i'll probaby weld the tubes to the housing. Normally i'd work on something like this until it was completed (a little bit every night, and then devote all daylight hours to it on the weekend), but i'll be driving down to NC to see family for Thanksgiving, and won't be back until sunday. If all is good in the world, i should be able to get the axle together, and painted during that week after thanksgiving, and the weekend will be D35 removal and welding spring perches on the new guy. I was very tempted to do a SYE kit at the same time, but between doing the 5 speed install over the summer, the engine build and install this fall, and now needing to do the rear axle.... i've spent way more money then i intended to on my jeep this year....

[IH 392]

Unless you plan on jumping your Jeep I wouldn't bother welding the tubes to the center section, the only issue Ive seen with the Ford 8.8 is the axle shaft bearing surfaces on the F150's that have been used as real trucks and have about a bazillion miles on them.

[John]

Weld them! Weld them! Weld them! This is not the F150 axle The years that fit our Jeeps so well, coupled with big tires, low range, crap load of torque has spun too many of them. Look at 10 of the axles we are talking about and tell me how many of the slugs are properly welded. Are all of them well plugged on the axle you just bought?
John

[Mgardiner1]

Weld them! Weld them! Weld them! This is not the F150 axle The years that fit our Jeeps so well, coupled with big tires, low range, crap load of torque has spun too many of them. Look at 10 of the axles we are talking about and tell me how many of the slugs are properly welded. Are all of them well plugged on the axle you just bought?
John

LOL i was a little bored before, after i wrote that message, i dragged the welder out and welded the tubes. Ahhhh the smell of cooking, used gear oil! The plug were still intact, but had enough rust and lifted enough to raise concern. Besides, even if i am not jumping this truck, with my previous axle experiences, a little extra work for the insurance that it will hold up better is well worth it.

I don't want to build the axle up until i at least get the old perches and mounts cut off. I think the heat from a welder is a little less brutal then that of a cutting torch. I am still waiting on my kit from M.O.R.E.

Unfortunatly, by the time i get home from work tomorrow, it will be dark outside and will prohibit me from cutting the pieces off. I'd drag it back into work with me tomorrow, except i won't have a vehicle to do so. I'm not really keen on trying to fit it in my leather interior Altima Coupe. LOL so i'll have to wait i guess until i get back from N.C.

[Mgardiner1]

Due to certian circumstances, i was able to borrow a different vehicle this morning and i took the axle to work with me, took about 1.5 hours to cut and grind down the spring perches, the sway bar pads, and the 3rd link mounts. I got the rest of the bearings and races out, and steam cleaned the beans out of it again, followed by a little sand paper, and 3/4 of a can of a primer/sealer.

Before:



After:

[SilverXJ]

One question.. why yellow?

[yuppiexj]

One question.. why yellow?

It's the new red

[SilverXJ]

I thought red jeeps were more prone to roll?

[oletshot]

I thought red jeeps were more prone to roll?

Ask Gradon! He knows which ones roll the best.

[Mgardiner1]

.....and 3/4 of a can of a primer/sealer.

Guys its just a primer LOL i'm going to paint it the matte finish muffler black that i did my engine block in. I just wanted to keep the bare steel from rusting

[Mgardiner1]

Had an ugly little surprise today. I went to hammer in the axle bearings, and they are too small, like fell right inside and rolled down the axle tube

I guess the master install kit i purchased was for 28 splined axles. http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=611
I wish it would differentiate between spline count on axles. I paid more for the master install kit specifically because it included the axle bearings and seals.

[Mgardiner1]

I contacted blue oval motorsports where i purchased the kit from, and he was nice enough to contact Ford, this was the response "The description does not say it will fit a Ranger or Explorer. The Explorer has much different ends on the axle tubes. That's why a 2300G fits an Explorer bt NOT a Mustang. All 8.8's are not created equal. All of the other bearings will work. Ford dealer for the axles."

Either way, i matched up the specs from napa's web site and was able to get a couple of bearings through work, and the local parts store had the seals. The axle is together from disc to disc. I do not have the hard brake lines yet. My yoke/flange adapter didn't show up today either. If it doesn't show up tomorrow i don't think i'll be driving the old YJ this weekend. I should definitly have the axle in and secured by the end of the weekend. At least thats my goal.

[Mgardiner1]

I had my father help me get the axle out of the basement this morning, we narrowly escaped catastrophy..... He tripped on the last step, and fortunatly him and the axle fell forward instead of on top of him! The D35 came out easy, no torch required

lifting that Ford 8.8 (175 lbs) by yourself is certianly not something i'd care to do often... But anyway, everything went pretty smoothly. I got the pinion angle set, the spring perches welded, and the brake lines made and installed. I've even got the tires back on it Pretty successful day

Things left to do:
Bleed brake system.
Fill rear with gear oil.
Make up parking brake cables from the originals.

I'm still waiting on the adapter for the driveshaft to adapt it to the ford flange. I'm a little annoyed, because i ordered it on tuesday, but it didn't get shipped out until friday. I was hoping to have it for this weekend, then i'd be driving it by monday.

[Mgardiner1]

The 1310 flange adapter FINALLY came in today. Took one full week for the company to have it processed and shipped, and it was apparently drop shipped because it came from a closer location then the retailer.

So i installed my driveshaft, and knew right away that it was too long, but was just short enough to put it in anyway and test it around the block. In an effort to lengthen it a little bit farther, i took my 1" transfer case spacers and cut them all down to 1/2" to bring the transfer case up higher. Sure that increased the distance.... but not thinking about it, it also changed the output angle of the transfer case which now causes driveshaft bind while heavy braking

Got a couple 4 degree shims on the way. I still have a stick of delrin i can cut down and make new spacers if need be. I just have to face the fact that i'm going to have to cut my drive shaft and shorten it, AGAIN. If it gets any shorter i'll be able to hook the transfer case directly up to the differential LOL

Otherwise i didn't experience any noises, and the disc brakes feel great (did NOT modify the proportional valve) My only other plans for the brakes are the double diaphgram booster/master combo, and possibley the Vanco big disc setup (got real good reviews)