Jeep Strokers

I had built it a couple years ago but decided to keep the OEM 4L till it wore out. Last July, I drove it to Idaho (from near Tucson, AZ) pulling our 13' travel trailer as usual. It took about 2 gallons of oil to get there, and blew enough oil into the air cleaner to saturate it. While there, I pulled the breather hose off the air cleaner and stuck it in the mouth of an oil bottle that I cut a hole in near the top to let crankcase gasses escape. Coming back I poured the oil from the bottle back in the engine every time I stopped. It only used about a gallon of new oil coming back. Surprisingly, it ran strong and got 13 mpg. It used to average 14 pulling the trailer.

This spring, I finally got around to installing the stroker. It's a very sweet-running engine, but you have to brace yourself to avoid whiplash if you mash the pedal down. I'm hoping the extra power will let me drag the trailer up the long grades in a higher gear. I was always happy with the 4L, but since I had to do something, I went with the stroker. I hope I'll be glad I did...

I'm finally ready to swap mine next week ,I also have a Cherokee... I've pulled a few 4.0's but never installed, did you run into any oh Shit moments or anything worth giving a heads up about? Just trying to be the best prepared i can
I am aware of the e12 torx bits on the bell housing, but anything else is should be ready for?

honkysXJ wrote:I'm finally ready to swap mine next week ,I also have a Cherokee... I've pulled a few 4.0's but never installed, did you run into any oh Shit moments or anything worth giving a heads up about? Just trying to be the best prepared i can
I am aware of the e12 torx bits on the bell housing, but anything else is should be ready for?

Install the intake and exhaust manifolds before installing it.

Have the motor mounts installed with the cross-bolts loose. Then you can set the engine down without fighting the mounts.

Good advice,thank you ! I'm just planning for some BS to come up ( seems like when you expect it ,its not as frustrating IF it does) I will probably bolt everything up possible while it's out of the jeep , I've done an intake swap and there's a few bolts that were so tuff to get to I had to guess the torque defiantly want to avoid that on my new motor especially after all the dang time and money I've already put in it !!!

I've seen cps sensors wrecked when the reluctor hit them during removal or installation. Suggest you remove the cps before pulling the engine.

I installed manifold and headers after the engine was in. I use flex sockets and different length extensions to reach the lower nuts/bolts. The hard part for me was getting the top 2 bell housing bolts. Their heads were beat up so the torx socket wouldn't work. I got some extractors from Harbor Freight that I had to drive on with a hammer and drift. I replaced them with grade 8 capscrews.

I've seen cps sensors wrecked when the reluctor hit them during removal or installation. Suggest you remove the cps before pulling the engine
Crank pos sensor right?, thanks and good advice! Waiting on a starter before I roll out and yank the heart outta this tired ass
Jeep

heavy equipment wrote:I've seen cps sensors wrecked when the reluctor hit them during removal or installation. Suggest you remove the cps before pulling the engine.

I've done that. All it takes is a little kiss from the flex plate/fly wheel.

SilverXJ wrote:

heavy equipment wrote:I've seen cps sensors wrecked when the reluctor hit them during removal or installation. Suggest you remove the cps before pulling the engine.

I've done that. All it takes is a little kiss from the flex plate/fly wheel.

Is ti visible? Mine got pulled with the CPS in and I had quite a fight with those top two bolts. I cut the head off of one with an air grinder.

On mine it wasn't. Worked fine prior and it wasn't that old. Put the engine back in and no start. Kept throwing codes for coil dwell time not long enough. CPS was the cause.