Overheating on cam break in. Glowing Exhaust

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heavy equipment
I think I'll order a "tab"
I think I'll order a "tab"
Posts: 43
Joined: November 6th, 2012, 5:41 pm
Stroker Displacement: 4.7L
Vehicle Year: 1990
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Cherokee

Re: Overheating on cam break in. Glowing Exhaust

Post by heavy equipment »

The Volvo 740 uses a tank pump (low pressure booster) and an external Bosch pump that is adequate for EFI (~60 PSI). The tank pump can be replaced by a generic electric pump outside the tank if installing one in the tank is a PITA.
nosigma
I think I'll order a "tab"
I think I'll order a "tab"
Posts: 42
Joined: June 12th, 2008, 11:38 pm

Re: Overheating on cam break in. Glowing Exhaust

Post by nosigma »

I realized I have not put a finish to this thread for those who might read it with a similar problem and are looking for a solution....

I put in a new Walbro pump and that fixed the noise and pressure problem. After not finding anything wrong other than the radiator cap being weak and replacing it, which has nothing to do with temps, just boil over, I decided to drive it for a few miles.

No more overheating. Once the parts got "friendly" (broken in) the overheating stopped. Hurrah for the old AMC copper radiator. It takes the temps just fine and it runs at 200-215.

I am addressing other problems like the vibration that caused me to tear down a perfectly good and very powerful bored 258 (3 45 DCOE's & Clifford split long tube headers). I would love to dump the FI system and go back to the Weber's but now that I put in hydroboost for the 4 wheel discs the carbs wont fit, so I am stuck with the damn fuel injection (running lean over 3,500).

Anyhow the overheating on break in went away. Happy for that.

Now if I can just get it smooth and as powerful as it was. There is a replacement for displacement and its spelled WEBER.

John
Highway101
Posts: 6
Joined: December 22nd, 2021, 5:26 pm
Vehicle Year: 1955
Vehicle Make: Willys
Vehicle Model: Wagon

Re: Overheating on cam break in. Glowing Exhaust

Post by Highway101 »

Going back to the the original problem of overheating during cam break-in. When I break-in a cam I will advance advance the ignition an extra 10 or 12 degrees advanced. The reason for this is that the engine is not under load and spins easier. Without the load on the engine the fire needs to get started sooner so it can be done burning before the exhaust valve opens.
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