Jeep Strokers

This is going into my 2000 Sport, entire motor is original. I've got the cracked 0331 head, which is what spurred the rebuild in the first place.

Reman 3727 4 CW Crank: http://www.northernautoparts.com/Produc ... elId=20663
Icon IC945-030 Pistons (forged, 0.030" overbore, +10.80 cc dish): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-i ... /make/jeep
Re-use Stock 4.0 L Rods
COMP Cams 231-4 (206/214) Complete Kit: http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... =K68-231-4
Clearwater 0331 Head (new): http://cylinder-heads.com/details.cfm?itemid=1828
Sealed Power Cam Bearings: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1363384

If anything looks off kilter, please let me know! ...and now for questions!

1) I'm going with the 945 pistons with less dish for higher compression. Any reason not to go this way (and get the 944s instead)?

2) Should I get new rod bolts, or is it okay to re-use the ones I've got?

3) Is it alright to re-use my current pushrods and rockers/pivots/retainers, or should I get new ones?

4) The crank I'm getting comes with main and rod bearings, but since it's for the 4.2 L, I think I might need to pick up a set of mains. Can somebody confirm this for me?

5) Obviously I'm getting new head bolts and gaskets. What other "small" items does everyone recommend I grab?

...and any other general advice that anybody would like to throw at me, please do!

Thanks all!

1) you can save some $$ and buy the 944's on eBay for $325. You should cut the deck of the block regardless of which pistons you choose. Just cut a little more to bump up the compression. What kind of CR are you looking for?
2) It's a good practice to recondition the rods and use some quality ARP rod bolts.
3) Reuse rockers if they're in good condition. You will need different length pushrods after you cut the block deck down.
4) 4.2 Main bearings are fine.

Don't buy the complete Comp Cam kit.... the valve springs won't work on a 4.0 or 4.6. Comp has been told this countless times!

The Comp cam doesn't use the 2000 style cam retainer plate. You'll need the early style timing chain, and a cam bolt/washer/pin.

You might get ping with the 945 due to higher compression. I would go with the 944s.
The Comp Cam kit has springs and retainers that won't work for the 4.0L

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I've been trying to figure out how the cam bolt setup works as opposed to the retaining plate; does it actually push back off the inside of the timing chain cover? Will the timing set (and bolt/spring) that COMP pairs with their cam work for me?

I'd like to run around 9.5 compression. Wouldn't I basically dish out the $$$ I'd save getting those cheaper 944s on decking the block and new pushrods? Also, I'm planning on running premium all the time after I stroke, so I'm not too concerned with ping/knock.

I don't know if you would get knock or not with the 945s. However, I would place a bet on it. With the 944s and about .047" quench you would get 9.5:1 static cr. Decking the block will also give you better quench. On mine I have .040" overs, .047" quench and I can barely get away with midgrade. But I also have a AEM FIC piggy back and can tweak the AFR as needed.

The pin and spring does push off the inside of the timing cover, pushing the cam into the block. However, that doesn't always work as the cam can walk. If you want to keep the retaining plate contact Mike Jones http://www.jonescams.com/. He can grind you a custom cam and you can keep the retaining plate. If you don't want to go with a JCR cam and retain the retaining plate style then I would recommend a solid pin with end play set manually to replace the pin and spring.

Dumb question coming up... How do I go about measuring the pin length I need?

Install the cam gear and bolt. Install the timing chain cover with the gasket. Remove the rear cam plug and install a dial indicator on the rear of the cam. Pry the cam back and zero the dial indicator. Now move the cam forward until it hits the timing chain cover. The measurement that you are now reading is how far the pin needs to stick out from the head of the cam bolt for .000 cam end play. If you use any kind of gasket sealer...that may add a thousand or two clearance. I like to run .000-.003 camshaft end play.

00XJ49 wrote:This is going into my 2000 Sport, entire motor is original. I've got the cracked 0331 head, which is what spurred the rebuild in the first place.

Reman 3727 4 CW Crank: http://www.northernautoparts.com/Produc ... elId=20663
Icon IC945-030 Pistons (forged, 0.030" overbore, +10.80 cc dish): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-i ... /make/jeep
Re-use Stock 4.0 L Rods
COMP Cams 231-4 (206/214) Complete Kit: http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... =K68-231-4
Clearwater 0331 Head (new): http://cylinder-heads.com/details.cfm?itemid=1828
Sealed Power Cam Bearings: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1363384

If anything looks off kilter, please let me know! ...and now for questions!

1) I'm going with the 945 pistons with less dish for higher compression. Any reason not to go this way (and get the 944s instead)?

2) Should I get new rod bolts, or is it okay to re-use the ones I've got?

3) Is it alright to re-use my current pushrods and rockers/pivots/retainers, or should I get new ones?

4) The crank I'm getting comes with main and rod bearings, but since it's for the 4.2 L, I think I might need to pick up a set of mains. Can somebody confirm this for me?

5) Obviously I'm getting new head bolts and gaskets. What other "small" items does everyone recommend I grab?

...and any other general advice that anybody would like to throw at me, please do!

Thanks all!

It looks like this is the stroker recipe that you're aiming at:

4.6L low-buck stroker

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
Keith Black UEM-IC944-030 pistons
9.6:1 CR
CompCams 68-231-4 206/214 degree camshaft
Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
Mill block deck 0.020"
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.050" quench height
Ford 24lb/hr injectors for '96-'04 engines
264hp @ 4900rpm, 324lbft @ 3500rpm

1. You need the Keith Black UEM-KB944030 pistons, not the 945's.
2. New ARP-112-6001 rod bolts will be good insurance against breakage.
3. Current rocker ssemblies will be OK but you'll need 0.025" shorter pushrods for the above recipe.
4. You'll need main bearings for the 4.0L HO block i.e. Clevite MS1947. The 4.2L main bearings have locating tangs offset to one side and won't fit in the HO block. They only fit in the 4.2L block and in the Renix 4.0L.
5. Get the Cloyes dual roller timing set CLO-9-3127.

If the experts say go with the 944s, that's what I should probably do! I also need to add rod bolts and mains to the list, got it.

So can I even use the lifters that come with the COMP cam? I also need to find a set of valve springs/retainers/locks - pretty sure there's a set from Summit everybody recommends, I've seen it on a couple threads here...

Also, I'm considering going with the 12 CW 3214723 crank since this is a weekend wheeler. Northern Auto Parts supposedly has one, but they lump it in with 4 CW 3235477, so I'd have to call to make sure I was actually getting the right one. Rock Auto has cheaper ones that are Marshall brand - anyone ever heard of them?

Thanks again guys!

The comp lifters will work fine.

As for the crank, it will be hard to figure out what you are getting unless you can actually get someone to open the box and check. I wouldn't worry about a 4 weight vs a 12 weight though. The 12 weight may only have an advantage if you have a manual transmission.

00XJ49 wrote:I also need to find a set of valve springs/retainers/locks - pretty sure there's a set from Summit everybody recommends, I've seen it on a couple threads here...

Mopar Performance DCC-5249464 valve springs
Mopar Performance DCC-4452032 spring retainers
Mopar Performance DCC-4529218 keepers

As usual, eternal thanks for all the info!

Looking at gasket sets now, and I'm trying to decide between Felpro or Victor. I've only needed to buy gaskets a few times in the past, and always went with Felpro just because it's a name I'd heard of. Seems like alot of people on here tend towards Victor though... I'm having a hard time coming up with a compressed head gasket thickness for either one - is there a difference?

Also, the picture for the Victor lower set shows the crank rear main seal without the little flanges. Can anybody confirm that, or is it just a case of "image may not represent actual product"?

The Victor Reinz head gasket has a compressed thickness of 0.043", and the Mopar Performance gasket is exactly the same.

00XJ49 wrote:As usual, eternal thanks for all the info!

Also, the picture for the Victor lower set shows the crank rear main seal without the little flanges. Can anybody confirm that, or is it just a case of "image may not represent actual product"?

The image may not represent the actual product. Also the later 4.0's did away with the little flanges. I can't remember what year...some where around 2000. I replaced the rear main in my 2003, and it didn't have the little flanges on the rear main seal. Just make sure you order the gasket kit for your year engine.

Going with the Victor Reinz set then.

Now on to injectors. I'm looking at Dino's Tech Specs page - will any of those injectors "pop right in"? If that's the case, I think I'm going to go with the Accel 24.4 lb ones (ACC-150126).

Lastly (for now), can you all point me to pushrods? I'm going to grab a check rod first just to be sure.

You guys rock - can't wait to start turning the wrenches (so I can tell you what I messed up and beg for help).