Jeep Strokers

So my 87 renix cherokee now has a 4.7 : original block. 96 head, aftermarket "computer friendly"cam, 94 fuel rail, 98 injectors grey tops, 96 intake, gibson header with exhausr cut off before the cat, hesco tps adapter on jy 96 tb. Automatic

Ayways, Now that I can get it to start Im having trouble making it do so correctly. It will only start when I feather the throttle. Im looking for advice on if this may be to do with the tps or prossible the fuel system.

Once started, It can not idle. If it drops below 1300 it starts to stall, and if it hits 1000 it instantly dies unless given more throttle. At this point I dont have a clue what is causing that. I have my vacuum likes linked up with no open lines. My sensors are all in. My jeep ran perfect before starting this project a month ago. I dont have much time to test every little thing due to my work schedule so im hoping someone has ran into this before or someone who has a good idea what may be going on for a starting point.

Greenneck wrote:94 fuel rail, 98 injectors grey tops

I think that's your problem. Those injectors are meant for a 49psi fuel system but yours is 39psi and those injectors will only flow 20.8lb/hr at that fuel pressure, so it's likely your engine's running too lean. Try Ford 24lb injectors instead.

Big vacuum leak. fur shur

Did you get the 3 ground wires hooked up to a clean and shiny engine dipstick tube stud? They can be overlooked or attached to a stud covered in new paint.

Sure the distributor is indesed properly?




Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾” wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

Revised 07/03/2012

Im really hoping its not my timing. It took forever just to get the thing started and Im scared if I try to index it according to what everyone says it may never start again.

The grounds are all connected to a clean studd but the sud then bolts to the dipstick tube then into the block which is painted.

Check the stud to block connetion.
You have to at least CHECK the distributor indexing. It ain't gonna bite ya.

Im trying to understand what you mean by cutting the locating tab. Do you mean to cut off the two ears the lockdown bolt goes through? And then just cut enough away you can spin the distributor anyway?

Greenneck wrote:Im trying to understand what you mean by cutting the locating tab. Do you mean to cut off the two ears the lockdown bolt goes through? And then just cut enough away you can spin the distributor anyway?

Yep. Check it first before cutting stuff off.

Alright I indexed it as you said, and now it will start by itself. Sometimes it runs for a minute or two, but it always ends up slowly bogging down stubbling and dieing. It actually can run under 1000 now. I took the iac off and it ran at 2k ish with no issues but sputtered over 3. Idk if the idle issue now is due to timing or something else



Just in case its relevant, my speedomoter doesnt work now after the build either.

I was planning on getting all this done in class but my parts were delayed and I ran out of time

See if you knocked the connections loose at the fuel pump ballast resistor on the driver's side inner fender.

I just check for one and I do not see it, there are holes for it but there is nothing. While i was there i disconnected my egr hoping that would somehow help but no change.

The fact I have it starting and it stubles slowly before dieing seems promising to me. it runs below 400 for a few seconds sputtering and then dies now.

Greenneck wrote:It runs below 400 for a few seconds sputtering and then dies now.

Umm, why do you want it to run below 400 rpm? Is your IAC working? It should never get below 500, at least my 87 Chief never did.

TR1Hemi wrote:

Greenneck wrote:It runs below 400 for a few seconds sputtering and then dies now.

Umm, why do you want it to run below 400 rpm? Is your IAC working? It should never get below 500, at least my 87 Chief never did.

I dont want it to, it just goes from a rough idle to basicly firing one cylinder at a time for a few seconds super slowly. I dont see why my iac wouldnt work after it did before i built this but thats also why im posting here.




In other news i performed a flow and pressure test on my fuel. It starts off at about 39 psi and drops to 35 ish while running, if i unplug the vacuum like it jumps to 45. It does have flow coming out so I guess that tells me my pump works constantly and it gets a signal to flow. Im just not sure if these pressure are enough for the injectors out of a 1998. But it seems to me at this point it dieing is no long a timing issue and so is either a fuel or air problem correct?