Jeep Strokers

SilverXJ wrote:According to inspections I don't live in VA.

haha, nice. so that's just abs plumbing pipe? good idea, I hadn't thought of that and ive been trying to come up with a way to make up some gauge mounts on one of my projects

Yes, black ABS pipe from Lowes. The gauge is a press fit into it.

Here are some images of the mock up on the manifold.








The intake plate and throttle body will be rotated counter clock wise more to clear the hood and give it an over all lower profile in the rear. When I had it int the engine bay there was plenty of room to drop it down.


The manifold as it is not. Still have some finishing work to do


The buttress I will probably remove. Behind that is where the runner actually begins. I left in thinking it would add support, but I don't think it is needed.



Also, a top view of it sitting in the engine bay:


The intake tubing will also be interesting. Due to the ABS module I can't come over the brake booster and run along the fender. I may take the route in red pictured above or go over the fuel rail then cross over the SC snout or maybe drop down besides the manifold if there is room. If I take the first route the wide area in red will be a flattened area, but still have sufficient cross section. For now it looks like I will have to make the tract out of fiberglass just to get the shapes right.

More hood issues. Since the latch is in the way I was going to move it closer to the driver's side. However, both my air box and hood vents are in the way. Toward the passenger side and I run into the fans. I will need to see how much clearance there is between them though... I wish I would have thought of that the last time the engine was out. But that is what clay is for.

This is what Montelibre had done to his hood. His pulley stuck even further above the hood.



I looked at a few different cowl hoods. The reflexions hood is too expensive. And then I haven't checked if it clears the pulley enough.


This company: http://fiberglass-hood.com/Shop_On-Line.htm makes an interesting "Ram Air" hood, but again, its $598 w/o shipping and paint.

Maybe a custom cowl hood or some kind of bizarre linkage for the hood release....

Or lower the engine.

With the hood on the safety latch I have 1.875" to close for the hood to fully close. At that point the pulley to hood (not latch) is 1.5". .375". That is at rest and under power the engine will move up in that area. So I will need a bit more room. Now, that is with a full .5" manifold plate, which will be machined down due to warping from welding. But it won't be that much. I could also machine the front of the pulley a bit, but not that much.

For a while I had been nervous about the day that I align the MP90, mark the holes and drill into the intake manifold, due to the possibility of being off alignment on the belt. Not only would i have to get the fore and aft correct, but also the side to side, sort to speak. However, O-Gauge came with an elegant solution. Since the manifold needs to be machined after welding I can cut a small step parallel to the manifold mounting surface and parallel to the had. That way I can shove the MP90 w/ adapter plate against the step and just worry about fore and aft position.

Looking good Chris !!

I took a look at hood clearance for the hood latch pivot today. First with silly putty. I had about 1.5" of silly putty stacked and it wasn't touching yet. I then got underneath and took some measurements. The closest point is 1" between the mechanical fan shroud and hood. I don't think I have anything to worry about with the pivot placement.

If the latch is a issue you can always remove it and put pins in.

Hood pins would be a last resort. Even the latest aero ones.

As far as hood pins go I think these are the least ugly/distracting to the look of a vehicle.

http://www.quik-latch.com/quik-latch-mini-latch.html

If painted to match they'd almost disappear.

Not a bad price either.

The hood latch pivot point is no longer an issue. There is plenty of room almost anywhere to put the pivot.

nice work! we will be watching for the results

this is so cool, many times wished that I could put a m90 on my 4.0

did you decide on a header yet?

For now a Doug Thorley header. However, If the SC works well I will probably go to a 3" exhaust. Just don't know yet and weighing options. I could have the Thorley modified from the 2.5" outlet to a 3" or 3.5", I could find a 99 and earlier header with a 3" or 3.5" outlet. Or I could go with one of the headers for 00+... then I could possible run duals w/ a crossover or just merge them into a single 3". Not sold on the option of duals though.