Jeep Strokers

Hey guys,

Been reading for the last few months getting close to the rebuild so i thought i would ask some questions. Its going in a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that's going to be used as a DD and some light towing.

I am using a block out of a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee as that's what im putting in it
I am going with the modified poor man stroker
I found a kit on ebay from cleggs with a New Scat Crank, 4.0 Rods (ARP bolts), IC944 forged pistons 30 over, Engine pro bearings for rod and mains for $955
for the full gasket kit im looking at using VICTOR REINZ kit off rock auto $160
Looking at going back with a stock cam maybe another cam looking for some help here for thought what going to be best i dont want to have a problem with the cam

Looking at injectors and i see that its recommended to go with #24 i found these on ebay and i was wondering if they would work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-STROKER-4- ... df&vxp=mtr
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-BOSCH-24lbs-h ... fb&vxp=mtr
will one or the other work on the stroker?

Also I have read up on the 0331 Head crack issue, i will have mine maged if it is cracked would you guys go with Alabama cylinder head or clear water cylinder head?

Machine work im looking at have done is
Hot tanked and maged the block $85
Head serviced milled $55 (if its not cracked)
Mag the head $20
bored and honed $150
Valve job $100
Freeze plugs and cam bearing pushed in $45
and I will check the crank and see if it need line honed... am i missing anything on the machine work?

Any thought here on how to improve the build or what else you guys would replace with new such as rockers, push rods, lifters, timing set?
Also i was looking for ARP head bolts any idea where these can be had at?


Thanks,
Jason

Every thing that I read points to using a double roller timing chain.

Just my .02.

What about a true roller timing set? do you have any links for a.double roller

Melling offers a stock replacement cam for the '99-up that uses the preferred cam retention plate instead of the pin/spring setup. However, the double-roller timing chains only fit the '98 & earlier cams with the pin/spring.....
The stock link-type timing chains aren't bad. They may actually be stronger than a single-roller chain.

Stock type head bolts will be fine. Avail from Fel Pro or Victor Reinz.

A later 0331 head 2003-up? with 'tupy' cast in it is the improved version. Worth considering if you can find a used one.

I cant find a 2003 Tupy cast... no one around here evn has 242 parts at all....
looking more at the injectors... witch ones would u suggest?

Will i be able to run 87 in this motor thats a perty big deal as it will be my dd.

did you already dissassembeld the block? the reason i'm asking is because i saw blocks that need to be overbored straight to 060 from standard, don't order the kit until you know what the bore size on your engine

The Bosch 24lb injectors http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-BOSCH-24lbs-h ... 1496wt_698 are what you need.
If your '01 4.0 engine is complete, you'll already have the required connecting rods so you'll just need a set of ARP-112-6001 rod bolts in addition to the 258 crank and IC944 pistons. You can reuse the stock cam but add new lifters. You can also reuse the rocker arms and pushrods if they're still in perfect condition.
The stock '94-'01 timing set with its "silent" chain is pretty strong and has beefier sprockets than the single roller used from '87-'93. You could reuse yours as long as the chain doesn't deflect by more than 0.5" along its longest free length. If in doubt, get a new stock replacement timing set. The aftermarket dual rollers won't work with the stock '99+ camshafts.

Dino, the 2001 has a higher fuel pressure of 49 psi, won't those 24 lb (@43.5psi) be too big for him? What year did Jeep goto 49 psi?
BTW, I ran my stock injectors for a while with my 4.6. They'll keep up at low to mid rpm's. You don't HAVE to upgrade right away.

Looks like the Cleggs stroker kit requires you to return your connecting rods (or pay $60). If you do keep your originals, you have to grind the small end a little for piston clearance (shop charged me $60). And if you upgrade to the ARP rod bolts ($45), the rod big end needs to be resized (about $100).

The Cleggs kit isn't a bad deal when you consider the going prices:
SCAT crank $400
KB944 pistons $400 (tho I've seen them for $365)
rods $150-200 to have yours done with ARP bolts.
You'll also need an gasket kit, cam bearings and you should replace your head bolts.

What I did:
got my SCAT crank from Summit , pistons from eBay, and the rest from Falcon Global.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-engine-kit ... c5&vxp=mtr

Running on 87 octane is a good possibility. Where do you live?
I cut my '01 block 0.020" and have been using 89 octane so far. Haven't tried 87 yet.

Retlaw01XJ wrote:Dino, the 2001 has a higher fuel pressure of 49 psi, won't those 24 lb (@43.5psi) be too big for him? What year did Jeep goto 49 psi?
BTW, I ran my stock injectors for a while with my 4.6. They'll keep up at low to mid rpm's. You don't HAVE to upgrade right away.

Jeep went to 49 psi in 96 I believe. Also, if you are running stock injectors, don't get in to WOT. It will run lean.

atias wrote:did you already dissassembeld the block? the reason i'm asking is because i saw blocks that need to be overbored straight to 060 from standard, don't order the kit until you know what the bore size on your engine

Yes i have it apart... I found why the guy pulled it out and he told me it had a knock, piston #4 had a broken skirt although the cylinder wall dosnt appear to be damaged. I am going to grab the telescoping gauge and micrometer and check it out.

The Cleggs kit the 955 is after sending the rods back and includes shipping (talked to cleggs and they said the rods core charge is built into the 949). i figured this would be the easiest way. and the scat crank they said is balanced dose anyone know if this is true?

I live in Kansas

Retlaw01XJ wrote:Dino, the 2001 has a higher fuel pressure of 49 psi, won't those 24 lb (@43.5psi) be too big for him? What year did Jeep goto 49 psi?

They went to 49psi from '96-'04 and those 24lb injectors will be fine. At 49psi they flow 13% more than the stock injectors and since there'll be a 16% increase in displacement with the stroker, they'll be a good match.

Geting ready to pull crank timing set and cam position sensor along with cm anything to watch? Besides order for main caps

I am now trying to select a cam, the cam is showing signs of wear would you guys go back with a factory cam or a aftermarket cam?

Depends on your budget and performance needs. A new OEM replacement cam is the cheapest, hassle-free option and unless you intend to spend a lot of time operating the engine above 4000rpm, it's also the best option.

I would rarely build any engine without decking the block as well, even if it is .005". This is especially true with a straight 6. A clean and flat gasket sealing surface is worth the extra bucks when you consider how much a blown gasket would cost to fix