Big Valve Stroker Motor

[Maize583]

Dont forget those head bolts are TTY, meaning they can only be re-used once.

They can't be TTY if you can re-use them once. TTY head bolts are one time only, then throw away.

These are the original bolts from the 4.2L and my 4.0L. They have only been used once. I think the bolt was fatiqued by water leaking up into the bolt hole through the head.

[Maize583]

I got the pushrods measured up tonight. I will be ordering them in the morning. Hopefully, they will be here by the weekend.

I am trying to shoot for Sunday to drop in the motor. We'll have to see.

The valve cover fits just fine over the roller rockers. So that was a worry that came out correctly.

Tomorrow night I will be installing the timing cover, the oil pan and the water pump.

I might shoot with some black paint to pretty it up some.

If the pushrods get here by the weekend, I can set the lash. Then I can prime the oil pump and rotate the engine over a few revolutions to get the lifters pumped up.

I like to set the lash with the lifters not pumped up. Then prime the oil pump and rotate the motor by hand to get them all filled and the oil flowing before firing it up dry.

[Maize583]

It's not looking good for the pushrods to be here by the weekend.

I got the motor finished up tonight. I put the oil pan on, the timing cover, the front crank seal, the balancer, the Flow Kooler water pump and bypass tube and the dip stick tube in place.

All that is left is set the lash on the lifters and put the valve cover back on. The rest of the stuff gets xferred from the old motor.

I may have to wait a couple of weeks. Labor Day weekend I am heading to New York for a training session on revalving snowmobile, atv and motocross shocks for my side business.

Looks like I may be spending the weekend working on my twin engine jet boat motors. darn....LOL.

[Muad'Dib]

Dont forget those head bolts are TTY, meaning they can only be re-used once.

They can't be TTY if you can re-use them once. TTY head bolts are one time only, then throw away.

These are the original bolts from the 4.2L and my 4.0L. They have only been used once. I think the bolt was fatiqued by water leaking up into the bolt hole through the head.

I dont mean to completly hijack, but i have to respond to this... anyway:

Im almost positive they are TTY... i know they stretch when torqued. If i recall there more of a "modification/variation" of torque to yield.

Either way they HAVE to be replaced after being re-used ONCE.

4.0L Engines

WARNING

Cylinder head bolts may only be reused one time. If reusing a cylinder head bolt, place a paint
mark on the bolt after installation. If a cylinder head bolt has a paint mark, discard it and use a
new bolt.
NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence
illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.
4. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Coat the threads of bolt No. 11 with Loctite PST
592 sealant.

CAUTION

During the final tightening sequence, bolt No. 11 will be tightened to a lower torque value than
the rest of the bolts. Do not overtighten bolt No. 11.
5. Tighten the cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as follows:
A. Step 1: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
B. Step 2: 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
C. Step 3: 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
D. Step 4: Bolts 1–10 to 110 ft. lbs. (149 Nm)
E. Step 5: Bolt 11 to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm)
F. Step 6: Bolts 12–14 to 110 ft. lbs. (149 Nm)
G. Step 7: Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6

The AMC242 head bolts are good for two torque cycles before they yield.

[Maize583]

Dont forget those head bolts are TTY, meaning they can only be re-used once.

They can't be TTY if you can re-use them once. TTY head bolts are one time only, then throw away.

These are the original bolts from the 4.2L and my 4.0L. They have only been used once. I think the bolt was fatiqued by water leaking up into the bolt hole through the head.

I dont mean to completly hijack, but i have to respond to this... anyway:

Im almost positive they are TTY... i know they stretch when torqued. If i recall there more of a "modification/variation" of torque to yield.

Either way they HAVE to be replaced after being re-used ONCE.

4.0L Engines

WARNING

Cylinder head bolts may only be reused one time. If reusing a cylinder head bolt, place a paint
mark on the bolt after installation. If a cylinder head bolt has a paint mark, discard it and use a
new bolt.
NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence
illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.
4. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Coat the threads of bolt No. 11 with Loctite PST
592 sealant.

CAUTION

During the final tightening sequence, bolt No. 11 will be tightened to a lower torque value than
the rest of the bolts. Do not overtighten bolt No. 11.
5. Tighten the cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as follows:
A. Step 1: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
B. Step 2: 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
C. Step 3: 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
D. Step 4: Bolts 1–10 to 110 ft. lbs. (149 Nm)
E. Step 5: Bolt 11 to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm)
F. Step 6: Bolts 12–14 to 110 ft. lbs. (149 Nm)
G. Step 7: Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6

The AMC242 head bolts are good for two torque cycles before they yield.

I respect that. But a true TTY bolt can only be used once. They also usually don't have a final torque setting. They usually end with a 1/2 turn after being torqued to a specific setting.

I have the Mopar Performance book for Jeeps where is says to not use them more than one time. I think that is more of a safety factor, than TTY tolerance. I actually took the 4.0 bolts out and used the 4.2 bolts. They don't have the taper on them like the 4.0 bolts do. They are straight all the way down.

When you torque a bolt to 110ft/lbs, it puts a lot of stress on it from heat and cooling, expansion and contractions. It is more of a fatique factor, than a TTY. TTY uses the stretching of the bolt as the torque. Once that stretch is released, it cannot be duplicated with that bolt again.

[Maize583]

Well. It looks like the knees put a damper on things - AGAIN. I went to the surgeon. He wants to do the partial knee replacements, the insurance company wants him to try Synvisc first.

I had my first injections yesterday. I have to go back 2 more times over the next 2 weeks to get further injections. I am not supposed to do any prolonged standing for the next 2 weeks, so it looks like the Jeep motor won't be going in for another 2 weeks.

These insurance companies are pathetic. I got into it with the (so-called) Customer Service person. I told her the doctor didn't think the Synvisc was going to work, and wanted to schedule the partial knees. She said she would like to try the Synvisc first.

I told her that I do warranty claims for Toyota. That is like a dealer calling in needing a new transmission because the clutch packs are shot, and I tell them to put in a new valve-body. That isn't going to fix the transmission because it needs new clutch packs...Synvisc isn't going to fix my knees because I need new joints.

She didn't see the similarity.

Anyway...once the pushrods come in. I will get some pictures of the valve train completed.

Once the valve train is adjusted, I can add the oil and prime the oil system. I like to leave the lifters alone. I don't pump them up prior to installing them. I can then set the valve lash properly.

Once that is set, I prime the oil pump and keep rotating the engine over until all the lifters are full. Then I can drop in the motor and fire it up.

See you guys in a couple of weeks.

[gradon]

Installing the head bolts was definitely an interesting step in the build: spiral, torque steps, bolt 11, etc. . .

[dwg86]

Where did you have your pushrods made? How much did they cost? any updates on the build?

[Alex22]

Where did you have your pushrods made? How much did they cost? any updates on the build?

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... Code=PSHRD

Not sure if its where Maize got his from because after all, comp isn't the only one selling these parts.

~Alex

[seanyb505]

Goodness, I paid like 10 dollars for mine from Mopar.

[Maize583]

I ended getting the first set, and they were not hardened.

Since I am using an adjustable valve train with guideplates, that wouldn't work. I sent them back and told that part of the reason I needed them made was because they needed to be hardened. I sent them back....and waited.....and waited.....and waited......and...well, you get the picture by how long it has been since I have posted.

I ended up digging through some old TRW engine parts catalogs, and spec sheets. I found that the old Buick 455 pushrods were only 0.005" longer than the set I was having made. SCORE. So I canceled my $146 pushrod order, and ordered my pushrods from Comp Cams. I got them from Sperry Engines here in town. I ordered them on Tuesday last week, and picked them up Friday.

I will putting the finishing touches on the motor this week.

I also purchased an electric cooling fan from a older Taurus. They come stock with a 2 speed fan, and the shroud just about fits perfectly. So while it is apart, I will be installing that as well.

The boat is just about finished up, and I am about ready to start putting this whole thing together.

I also found a chassis dyno about 20 miles from here that does tuning on FI motors as well. They have an exhaust sniffer. I am stoked that I can tune it properly while under load without having to spend a day driving back and forth on the road and pulling spark plugs.

[dwg86]

I dropped off the head and the two valves I brought home at Sperry Engines today.

I also dropped off the rocker arm studs and pushrod guides so they could be machined into the head. I am having them cut it down 0.400" inch to accept the studs.

I will have to wait until I get the motor together to order my pushrods. I will have to measure them to get the correct length once the motor is together.

I also dropped off the main bearings, a set of rod bearings, a set of rings, the new ARP rod bolts, the new dampner, the flex plate and bolts so the rotating assembly could be balanced. I already balanced the pistons and rods so all that is left is to balance the crank with the weight on it.

I am also having him cut 10mm off the snout of the crank to fit the new style balance/pulley.

He is going to deck the block to 0.010", with the Mopar Performance head gasket of 0.043", that will give me a quench height of 0.053". Mopar suggests a quench of a minimum 0.040" to a maximum of 0.060". This should put me just in the middle.

With the new larger chamber, quench at 0.053" and 18cc pistons. I should have a compression ratio of 9.08:1. I should be able to run 87 octane gas running around town, and change to 91 octane when pulling under load.

The shop said they should have everything done in about 2 weeks. So once it gets back, I will be posting the progress of the new build. I will actually be getting to put it back together. YEAH!!!

Once the old motor is out, I will have the Doug Thorley header coated in ceramic and also the intake manifold. I will have to show the new setup to use the 2000 style intake, on the 94 configuaration..and still use all the 94 accessories so you don't have to mix and match.

I feel like it is Christmas around the corner. I am getting stoked to get it back and start putting it together.

I need to start working on the adjustable MAP sensor, so it is ready to go.

Where did you get the .400 figure to mill off the rocker bosses?

[Maize583]

Where did you get the .400 figure to mill off the rocker bosses?

The screw in studs have a wide base that tapers to 3/8" up the shaft. I mic'd it out to where the taper starts to the bottom of the base that mates to the surface. I then mic'd out the thickness of the guideplate. The total of all that came to just under .398" so I rounded up to .400" for ease of machining.

When using roller rocker arms, I wasn't comfortable with the amount of threads on the polylocks, because of the thickness of the pivot on the roller rockers. It only had about .375" of actual threads. The polylocks I got had .125" of a lip with no threads, so I machined them down to first of the threads, now I have .500" of biting threads. That is plenty.

By using this measurement, it keeps everything at pretty much the same angles. I had to have custom length pushrods because of the larger valves, with different lengths, I had installed. I had to sink them to adjust not only for the LS1 length, but also the chamber work that was done to get to 65cc's. If you install an adjustable valvetrain with a standard head, (using those same measurements) you should be able to use the stock length pushrods.

I am speaking in general terms. If you do this conversion, you should always take the measurements of your parts, then make the cut based on your measurements. This will at least give you a guide.

[SilverXJ]

Once the old motor is out, I will have the Doug Thorley header coated in ceramic and also the intake manifold.

Are you coating the Thorley header in ceramic by someone other than Thorley? Reason I ask is because the newer Thorley headers have ceramic coating already... however, after the cam break in procedure mine started to flake off... and it has done it twice.

[Maize583]

I will be having Cool Concepts here in Walford do my coatings. They do a great job.

My original coating was a cheezy looking attempt at chrome from Doug Thorley. I originally sent it off to Jet Hot as Cool Concepts were not open yet.

The guy who did my original head work (valve job) sank the valves deeper in the head, and did not tell me. When I put the non-adjustable valve train back together, I found that the valves were hanging open.

The header looked really cool glowing all red. I used a house fan to blow exhaust out of my garage. I had the exhaust about a foot away from it. It got soo hot, it melted the plastic screen and the fan blades on the fan.

When I have it apart, I may have it recoated, I may not. I am only going to be keeping this Jeep until the Camry is paid off. That will be 2 years. Once that is paid, I am getting another vehicle. Probably a new Tacoma with a supercharger from TRD. We'll have to wait and see. I wanted a Venza, but they keep putting that off. I am not sure if they are ever going to come out with it. And I work for Toyota.