It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
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- Donator
- Posts: 82
- Joined: September 21st, 2011, 9:34 pm
- Vehicle Year: 1997
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Anaconda, MT
It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
I've been lurking and researching here for a while now and finally have an idea of what I want to do for my 97 XJ. Pretty much the basic "Poor Mans Stroker" recipe kept mild enough so it will still run on regular pump gas. I live at 5000' above sea level and some of the passes around here get to 7500'. The XJ rides on 35's with 4.10:1 gears so any kind of a hill or even a slight headwind will kick the trans down to 3rd. I'm really just looking to get enough power out of this stroker to compensate for the too tall gearing. I don't remember if I posted a pic of it yet, but here's what it'll be going in. (old pic before the Go Bezerk fender flares were installed)
This past Monday I went to a local junkyard and picked up a 4.2 out of a '77 Gremlin for $100. It didn't give me any trouble pulling it at the yard, but on the way home a quick changing stop light caught me off guard and the engine rolled forward and slammed into the back of the driver seat. Yes it was still full of some ancient thick black oil in it, and yes it's now all over the carpet and rear seat in the XJ. I hope this isn't a sign of things to come with this build...
Back on track: I got the block into the barn and tore it down to get at the goodies. The engine looked pretty good inside and all the parts appeared to be original.
The crank is a 12 CW (Casting# 3214723) and the rod and main journals look pretty decent but should still get at least polished, if not turned .010 at most, to clean it up. It passes the ring test so a crack is unlikely, but I will get it magnafluxed when I sent it to the machine shop anyway.
I cut out the center of the harmonic balancer with a thin cutting wheel on my angle grinder to make a spacer out of it. I'll turn the OD down to remove the remainder of the spokes and cut it to length on the lathe later. I'll try to remember to get pics of the process.
The rods are 707's and I'm going to shorten the top pads for piston clearance and polish the beams before I send them off to get reconditioned.
The pistons look like factory originals and don't appear to be oversized. I didn't bother measuring them since they're getting tossed in favor of some Sealed Power 677's. The new pistons will be getting dished to 30cc by Oleshot when I buy them early next month. I've just gotta contact him to let him know when I'll be sending them his way. For the cam I'll be using a stock '96-'99 replacement from Melling. Also on the shopping list are new lifters, double roller timing set and Mopar valve springs among other things. I already did a lot of the basic mods previously ('99 intake, full 2.5" exhaust, 60mm throttle body, slightly bigger injectors, hi-flow water pump and brass radiator) so I'm already that much ahead of the game.
Next order of business will be to pick up a complete '96 4.0 out of an XJ in another yard for $350. I may try to pick that one up on Monday since I don't have classes on that day. I'd rather pull the original 4.0 in the XJ, but I can't have it down that long since it's my DD right now. When the block goes to the machine shop it will be getting zero decked (hence the 30cc dish) and bored .060 over as well as the usual reconditioning machining. The head gasket will be a .043 MLS type to help get the quench down to the bare minimum for a better DCR. I'm not sure yet if I'll try to port the '96 head or not since I'm going for such a relatively mild build.
It's late and I've gotta get some sleep before school tomorrow so I'll post the entire build details this weekend.
This past Monday I went to a local junkyard and picked up a 4.2 out of a '77 Gremlin for $100. It didn't give me any trouble pulling it at the yard, but on the way home a quick changing stop light caught me off guard and the engine rolled forward and slammed into the back of the driver seat. Yes it was still full of some ancient thick black oil in it, and yes it's now all over the carpet and rear seat in the XJ. I hope this isn't a sign of things to come with this build...
Back on track: I got the block into the barn and tore it down to get at the goodies. The engine looked pretty good inside and all the parts appeared to be original.
The crank is a 12 CW (Casting# 3214723) and the rod and main journals look pretty decent but should still get at least polished, if not turned .010 at most, to clean it up. It passes the ring test so a crack is unlikely, but I will get it magnafluxed when I sent it to the machine shop anyway.
I cut out the center of the harmonic balancer with a thin cutting wheel on my angle grinder to make a spacer out of it. I'll turn the OD down to remove the remainder of the spokes and cut it to length on the lathe later. I'll try to remember to get pics of the process.
The rods are 707's and I'm going to shorten the top pads for piston clearance and polish the beams before I send them off to get reconditioned.
The pistons look like factory originals and don't appear to be oversized. I didn't bother measuring them since they're getting tossed in favor of some Sealed Power 677's. The new pistons will be getting dished to 30cc by Oleshot when I buy them early next month. I've just gotta contact him to let him know when I'll be sending them his way. For the cam I'll be using a stock '96-'99 replacement from Melling. Also on the shopping list are new lifters, double roller timing set and Mopar valve springs among other things. I already did a lot of the basic mods previously ('99 intake, full 2.5" exhaust, 60mm throttle body, slightly bigger injectors, hi-flow water pump and brass radiator) so I'm already that much ahead of the game.
Next order of business will be to pick up a complete '96 4.0 out of an XJ in another yard for $350. I may try to pick that one up on Monday since I don't have classes on that day. I'd rather pull the original 4.0 in the XJ, but I can't have it down that long since it's my DD right now. When the block goes to the machine shop it will be getting zero decked (hence the 30cc dish) and bored .060 over as well as the usual reconditioning machining. The head gasket will be a .043 MLS type to help get the quench down to the bare minimum for a better DCR. I'm not sure yet if I'll try to port the '96 head or not since I'm going for such a relatively mild build.
It's late and I've gotta get some sleep before school tomorrow so I'll post the entire build details this weekend.
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- Donator
- Posts: 82
- Joined: September 21st, 2011, 9:34 pm
- Vehicle Year: 1997
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Anaconda, MT
Re: It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
Well, looks like this project will have to be on hold a little while longer. I'm gonna have to be travelling this weekend and won't be back in time to get to the JY for the '96 4.0 before they close Monday. Hopefully I'll be able to get it by spring break in mid March. I'm still collecting as many of the smaller parts as I can in the mean time.
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- Donator
- Posts: 82
- Joined: September 21st, 2011, 9:34 pm
- Vehicle Year: 1997
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Anaconda, MT
Re: It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
Talked to the guy at the JY again today. They will be pulling a 4.0 from a 96 XJ for me next week. I should be able to pick it up on Thursday.
So far I"m $450 into this stroker build. $100 for the 4.2 short block and $350 for the complete (supposedly good) '96 4.0. I'll probably have to wait till March before I can order my pistons.
So far I"m $450 into this stroker build. $100 for the 4.2 short block and $350 for the complete (supposedly good) '96 4.0. I'll probably have to wait till March before I can order my pistons.
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- Noob
- Posts: 10
- Joined: November 10th, 2010, 1:22 pm
- Vehicle Year: 1992
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
Re: It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
Did you add that hood scoop? Or did you get the hood from somewhere?
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- Donator
- Posts: 82
- Joined: September 21st, 2011, 9:34 pm
- Vehicle Year: 1997
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Anaconda, MT
Re: It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
The previous owner stuck it on there so I don't know what kind it is or where he got it from. When I get some nice weather I plan on pulling it off and cleaning up the hole in the hood. It's pretty jagged under there and he made no effort to roll the edge to put some strength back into the hood. I'll bend a 1/4" lip upwards all around the opening which should also help keep some water out when it's parked.
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- Donator
- Posts: 82
- Joined: September 21st, 2011, 9:34 pm
- Vehicle Year: 1997
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Anaconda, MT
Re: It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
I just got back from the JY with the new-to-me 4.0 out of a 96 XJ. It was waiting there for me already strapped to a wooded pallet so they just had to lift it onto my trailer with a forklift. I don't have any time to mess with it before class so it'll have to stay on the trailer for a while till I can get some free time to work on it. I made sure to cover it completely with a tarp so it should be fine there for a while.
The outside of the engine looks in better shape than I imagined it would. I just hope the inside is as clean as the outside.
The outside of the engine looks in better shape than I imagined it would. I just hope the inside is as clean as the outside.
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- Donator
- Posts: 82
- Joined: September 21st, 2011, 9:34 pm
- Vehicle Year: 1997
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Anaconda, MT
Re: It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
Well, this project is getting bumped down a notch for a little while now.
I'm giving priority to my street legal 03 WR450F supermoto rebuild project so I can use it this summer to save on gas. I finally got the Grand Cherokee T-case rebuilt so that's back to being my DD again.
For now I'm just going to continue to collect parts and information for the stroker build and set them aside till I have everything I need. That way I won't have to compromise on the pistons and rods I wanted like I would if I just kept rushing into it.
Current plan is revised as follows:
Already have:
'96 4.0 XJ block, head and rods
'76 4.2 12cw crank
'99+ 4.0 intake
Jeep TB bored out to 60mm
24lb Ford injectors
SS header with full 2.5" exhaust
Still need to get:
KB Icon 944 pistons +.030
new cam and lifters (still debating on which one...)
new valve springs (and retainers and locks if required)
.043 MLS type head gasket
full engine gasket set
brass freeze plug set
machine work currently planned:
clean block and head
check block, head and crank for cracks
grind and/or polish crank as required
bore cyls +.030
zero deck block
check cam and main bores to see if they need align bored
replace cam bearings
check valve seats and guides and fix as needed
skim cut the head deck if needed
I'll be working on porting and polishing the head after I get it back from the machine shop. I'd hate to do the P&P first and then find out about some crack in the head somewhere I couldn't see with the naked eye. Once the head is done and I have everything back from the engine shop I'll build it myself. I can get the auto shop department here at college to do the grunt work of pulling the old engine and installing the stroker fairly cheap, so I'll probably let them tackle that part of the project.
I'm giving priority to my street legal 03 WR450F supermoto rebuild project so I can use it this summer to save on gas. I finally got the Grand Cherokee T-case rebuilt so that's back to being my DD again.
For now I'm just going to continue to collect parts and information for the stroker build and set them aside till I have everything I need. That way I won't have to compromise on the pistons and rods I wanted like I would if I just kept rushing into it.
Current plan is revised as follows:
Already have:
'96 4.0 XJ block, head and rods
'76 4.2 12cw crank
'99+ 4.0 intake
Jeep TB bored out to 60mm
24lb Ford injectors
SS header with full 2.5" exhaust
Still need to get:
KB Icon 944 pistons +.030
new cam and lifters (still debating on which one...)
new valve springs (and retainers and locks if required)
.043 MLS type head gasket
full engine gasket set
brass freeze plug set
machine work currently planned:
clean block and head
check block, head and crank for cracks
grind and/or polish crank as required
bore cyls +.030
zero deck block
check cam and main bores to see if they need align bored
replace cam bearings
check valve seats and guides and fix as needed
skim cut the head deck if needed
I'll be working on porting and polishing the head after I get it back from the machine shop. I'd hate to do the P&P first and then find out about some crack in the head somewhere I couldn't see with the naked eye. Once the head is done and I have everything back from the engine shop I'll build it myself. I can get the auto shop department here at college to do the grunt work of pulling the old engine and installing the stroker fairly cheap, so I'll probably let them tackle that part of the project.
Last edited by GoMopar440 on February 16th, 2012, 6:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- SilverXJ
- Global Moderator
- Posts: 5790
- Joined: February 14th, 2008, 7:14 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
- Vehicle Year: 2000
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Radford, Va
Re: It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
Too large.GoMopar440 wrote:27lb Ford injectors
No harm in polishing the crank. It will help it shed oil and rounding off the leading edge will help it cut though the air better. Wrap duct tape around the journals to protect them and polish before you have any machining or balancing done to it.grind and/or polish crank as required
Good plan. I had mine checked prior to polishing it as well. It took me quite a while going slow to do my head and intake and it would have been a lot of time and work lost if it had a crack.I'll be working on porting and polishing the head after I get it back from the machine shop. I'd hate to do the P&P first and then find out about some crack in the head somewhere I couldn't see with the naked eye.
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
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- Donator
- Posts: 82
- Joined: September 21st, 2011, 9:34 pm
- Vehicle Year: 1997
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Anaconda, MT
Re: It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
Err,... typo. Yea that's it.
I just noticed that and was about to correct it when I noticed someone already commented on it.
I'm editing the post above to fix that right now.
These injectors I have, I was told, are the Ford 24lb all yellow plastic bodied ones. I'm going to be rechecking the part numbers before I finish the stroker because I want to be 100% sure of what I have in there so I don't go lean during the cam break-in. A wide ratio AF meter is also on the shopping list to get added to the XJ before I do the cam break-in as well.
Oh yea, here's the main reason for the delay...
I just noticed that and was about to correct it when I noticed someone already commented on it.
I'm editing the post above to fix that right now.
These injectors I have, I was told, are the Ford 24lb all yellow plastic bodied ones. I'm going to be rechecking the part numbers before I finish the stroker because I want to be 100% sure of what I have in there so I don't go lean during the cam break-in. A wide ratio AF meter is also on the shopping list to get added to the XJ before I do the cam break-in as well.
Oh yea, here's the main reason for the delay...
- SilverXJ
- Global Moderator
- Posts: 5790
- Joined: February 14th, 2008, 7:14 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
- Vehicle Year: 2000
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Radford, Va
Re: It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
You can run stock injectors and you won't go lean during cam break in. Low rpm, no load= little fuel requirement.
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
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- Donator
- Posts: 82
- Joined: September 21st, 2011, 9:34 pm
- Vehicle Year: 1997
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Anaconda, MT
Re: It begins. Gotta start somewhere...
Well, I replaced the stock injectors with the yellow bodied Ford ones (4 hole type) about a year and a half ago when I was still living in Colorado. The originals got pitched at that time so I don't have them available anymore. I suppose I could try to use the stockers that are still in the JY 4.0, but they are an unknown as far as condition is concerned. I'm thinking the yellow ones I have now will be ok for break-in then since they are working fine with the current 4.0. What do you think?
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