Jeep Strokers

Ok after several months of mind numbing very cool reading on this site and Dinos pages I have taken the plunge on my first stroker, god help us all.

94 block currently at machine shop
.030 over bore
Not sure on decking as of yet, would like to do just enough to clean it up if any.
Machine shop will install cam berrings and freeze plugs along with checking all measurements and heights. I will do assembly
Line bore checked
KB 944 .030 $369 to the door
4 wt 65mm crank .010 mains .020 rods
4.0 rods
cloyes double roller
Im still on the fence as far as cam, stock melling replacement or comp 232

Im pretty excited and will post pics as it starts to come together as well as a detailed parts machine work price list.
You guys have been a wealth of information and its all greatly appreciated. If anyone has suggestions or input feel free.

Thanks to all

Did the price of the KB's include rings? Anyhow, glad to see that vendors are selling them for less than ~$500 when they came out. Get your machinist to deck the block .025"-.030" so they sit higher in the cylinder at TDC.

Another $29 for rings both from a store on ebay, found out this morning it was titan selling on ebay under another name.

Question, if i take .020 off the block to get it tp 0 will i need different pushrods?

thanks in advance

OK, Finally got the 4.6 done and in. Here is my expierence so far. After putting the engine in and attempting to start several times it I couldnt get anything from it. It was late so I headed into the house to spend the night thinking about the install and what I could have missed. I reread the FAQ on dizzy install and BAM that was my problem it was 180 out. I got everything put back in and the motor started right up, broke in the stock melling cam for 20 minutes ant 1750 to 2000 rpm. No leaks or issues so I thought.

After breakin I shut it off and took care of odds and ends in the shop, I started the jeep again and it showed me a trouble code of 11, I reset the computer and it popped up again. I have driven the jeep now for about 50 miles and to be honest It doesnt seem to have anymore power than the old 4.0. Any suggestions on the code/average power?

Thanks in advance

Code 11 is for the CPS and the cam position sensor. Your distributor may need to be indexed if you used an aftermarket cam, and that could be the reason your stroker doesn't have full power. Keep in mind that the engine is still tight and its performance will improve noticeably as it loosens up.

Thank you very much,
I popped an ear off the dizzy and rotated it counter clockwise slightly and it seemed to like it. I no longer get a code and it seems to have alot more power. The 4.6 now hase 150 miles and so far so good. Would you suggest the toothpick method of checking the dizzy now that its not coding?

Thanks in advance

I don't know if the toothpick method would work for an aftermarket cam but since your engine liked the change, you could try rotating the dizzy a few more degrees more counterclockwise. If that doesn't help or it makes things worse again, just go back to your existing setting and keep it there.

Wouldn't rotating the dizzy counterclockwise mean that the Distributer has been indexed incorrectly? Sounds to me like the distributer is a tooth off and needs to be moved a tooth clockwise.

I know when my Dizzy is correctly indexed, the trailing edge of the rotor is near number 1. If you put the #1 piston at TDC look at the rotor. If its pointing directly at or slightly before #1 then your a tooth off and will need to move it clockwise.