Jeep Strokers

Hi all. like the title says, this is my first engine build. I'll be getting a hand from my father-in-law on this(master engine builder for 426 Hemis and every other BB Mopar), but I need to get some groundwork going. I'm open to any advice you can give me. I've been reading up on building a stroker but it's a bit much for me to comprehend.

Starting off, I'm not sure what size to build for! I bought a 98' Civic with 21k on it so gas milage is really no longer a concern as it is no longer a daily driver. I was thinking an engine around a 4.6 to 4.7. 258 crank and rods with custom pistons, bored to 60 over. One question on the crank. Can I just buy one from autozone or do I need it specially machined with a certain style of bearing? I'm going to be building this out of my 99' 4.0l.

all you need is a good 258 crank . older ones have twelve weights and newer have four . google dino's jeep 4.0l performance site . follow the info . will lead you to all kinds of recipes for builds already figured out for you .

You are going to have a hard time finding a 258 crank through a national auto parts store. I bought mine new through HESCO but you can save a $100 buying it directly from SCAT crankshaft.

There are a bunch of recipe's available that run the price range. There are some pretty awesome guys on here that will help. Without them, I would have just rebuilt my 4.0L and went on.

Personally, I am having built my first STROKER based upon the "Modified Poor Man's" STROKER, its a 4.6L (actually 4.5 and change). I went with 2002 4.0L block, stock (unported) re-manufacturered 0331 head, stock rods, Melling High Volume Oil Pump, new stock camshaft and lifters, Keith Black 944 +0.020" forged pistons, SCAT crankshaft, Ford/Bosch 24# fuel injectors. Pretty much everything else is stock OEM.

That actually sounds like the kinda build I'm looking at. I don't have tons of cash by any means, but I do notice a lack of power and i'm trying to make up for it.

I wouldn't waste my time with Advance, Autozone, etc cranks. They are usually turned too much to be useful. I would go with a Scat crank, one of 505's cranks or one of Hesco's. The later two are a bit pricey. I would go with stock 4.0L rods. You can polish them, spot peen, install ARP bolts and have them resized. Or 505 has a good selection of rods, some not priced too bad. Depending on what compression ratio you are aiming for Keith Black makes forged pistons for the 4.0L rod w/258 crank. IC944 and IC945.

Not sure what you mean by turned too much?

When they refurbish a crank shaft they cut material off the journals. Its called turning the crankshaft because its turned while its being cut (I think).

Their cranks are often ground down to the maximum under sizes, yes the cranks are spun while being ground (envision a GIANT bench grinder) hence the "turned" description.
A crank that is undersized on the journals is no weaker than a standard crank as long as the "fillet radius" is correct, to abrupt/sharp of radius is what weakens a crank, a "large" or "undercut" radius will make the crank stronger.
Most of the issue I've seen with getting a crank crank form one of the parts stores is actually getting one?

You can easily find a good used 258 crank in ebay. If it comes together with main/rod bearings, keep in mind that those main bearings won't fit in your '99 block so you'll need to buy those separately.
Take a look at my stroker "recipes" (you can build your own variation on any of them), decide which one is closest to your needs and budget, and we'll guide you with a parts list and where to buy them from (likely to be Summit Racing for most of them).

Sorry if I sound a bit sarcastic, but where are you finding good used cranks on ebay? All the ones I found are new and expensive.

Yeah they're not cheap but they are in very good condition (I've helped three guys here build strokers with cranks from Turkey). Apparently this Turkish guy sources his cranks from military Jeep CJs so he has a pretty good stock. Here's a couple worth looking at:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CRANKSHAFT ... _500wt_715

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRANKSHAFT-JEEP ... _500wt_715

Shipping will be expensive so if you live in the US it's better to buy locally from Hesco, 505 Performance, or Scat. For those of us who live in the Middle East shipping is much cheaper.

I've been a little skeptical of those cranks?, he states they are for 232 and 258, the cranks and rods are the the seven parts that that differ in the two engines, but if Dino says they're working in the strokers they are 258 cranks, plus I don't believe the 12CW cranks were ever anything but 258 cranks? also the shipping is the killer!, FleaBay calculates that with shipping here to Oregon it would cost $515!
One of the guys up in Seattle bought one of the Scat cranks off of FleaBay and never did get it!, they refunded his $$$, I looked at the Seattle Craigs List and found a 258 for $75! sent him the link and he SCORED! it, and it was a 12CW also, Craigs List can be a great place to find stuff, but you need to look EVERY day and perhaps several times a day too?
Also don't limit your searches to Jeeps, after all they are AMC's and International used them too, my 12CW crank came from a '75 IH 200 3/4 truck!

A guy in town my have some parts for me. I'm in Buffalo so there havn't been any in the junkyard in around 10 year due to the salt. Just trying to keep it all budget friendly.

IH 392 wrote:I've been a little skeptical of those cranks?, he states they are for 232 and 258

He's correct. Some of those cranks are indeed from a 232 (casting no. 3214722) so you have to click on the link and check the part no. These are the casting nos. of the 258 cranks:

1972-80...3214723.........12 counterweights, 66lb, 64mm nose
1981-86...3235477..........4 counterweights, 46lb, 64mm nose
1987-90...3727..............4 counterweights, 46lb, 54mm nose

Guy didn't have one. Turns out it was from an early 4.0. So now i"m looking again. It's kinda funny how hard it is to find one.