Jeep Strokers

http://www.hughesengines.com
I talked to these guys this morning about cams for the 4.0L. They specialize in mopar cam grinds using the advantage of the large .904 diameter lifter(faster lift ramps). Although they don't have camshafts listed for the 4.0, they can get them. Some of the specs they talked about for the 4.0 stroker: 210 intake [email protected] 491 lift / 219 exhaust [email protected] 522 lift. 114 lobe seperation, installed intake centerline 111 for computer controlled engines. Also 215 intake [email protected], 501 lift / 223 exhaust [email protected], 539 lift. The second one seamed a little big for low torque computer controlled engs...just my opinion. $199.00
We also talked about the problems with flat tappet cam failures and wide vs narrow lobe cams. Same story..."Its because of the oil, not the narrow lobe cams" He also mentioned cheap lifters being the problem. They offer a set of MADE IN USA lifters with a oil hole in the bottom to pressure feed the cam surface.
Just thought ya'll might like some other options to think about when planning/choosing parts for your stoker build.

Found this on their site too: http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail ... rtID=12866
Something different from ZDDP?

Did they actually say that they had the lifter that would fit the 4.0L with the EDM hole (the hole in the bottom ) I thought the only ones that were making them were Johnson and they only had them for the SB Chevys.

Acually thats who they said made them. Now I know the old Chryslers didn't lube the top end of their engines through the push rods. They lubed through a oil hole passage in the head. The lifters were the same as the amc engines. The Chrysler push rods just didn't have holes in them, so the solid ball on the end of the push rod blocked the hole in the top of the lifter. I wonder if the johnson lifters would work with a push rod oiling system?

I've been using Johnson lifters in my 4.0L rebuilds and my stroker builds for years they make a great lifter. I had just never herd of them making any other than a standard hydraulic lifter for the Chryslers. The EDM hole thing has just came out in the last few years. It works great from what I've seen on the Chevys.

What cams have you used? What kind of millage are you getting out of the cams?

I use Bullet Cams ( Ultra Dyne ) only some of my 4.0L have 100,000 miles on them most of the strokers are trail rigs and don't odometers on them. Some have been installed for 4 years with no problems.

I have been saying for years that cam failures are more commonly caused from junk lifters. Glad to finally here it from somebody else.

Preaching the lifter/oil quality issues myself, I posted pics of grain structure analysis on the board earlier. Too many just think the gasoline fumes have finally got to me.
John

John wrote:Preaching the lifter/oil quality issues myself, I posted pics of grain structure analysis on the board earlier. Too many just think the gasoline fumes have finally got to me.
John

Them pic's and story, sure added merit to the lifter "Quality" Question for me!


Flash

John wrote:Preaching the lifter/oil quality issues myself, I posted pics of grain structure analysis on the board earlier. Too many just think the gasoline fumes have finally got to me.
John

I missed that one. Do you know where it was posted.

Yes, in this thread, I linked to it. viewtopic.php?f=15&t=156
John

Well I sure would like to find out if the narrow lobes have anything to do with all this. I bought 2 mopar 30AB cam and lifter kits. One the dealer let me have at his cost for $144.00, the other I payed full price @ $218.00. My intent was to have these reground to different specs. 30AB specs; 256 advertised dur, .450 lift, centerline 108. Mopar says to mutiply there advertised dur by .85 which would be 217 @ .050. I was wanting less dur @.050 on the intake and more lift on the exhaust and intake. The centerline is what I am concerned about. From what I have been reading the centerline can't be changed on a regrind. The 108 seams a little wide for a computer controlled engine....Unless the intake centerline was 108 and lobe seperation was 112. I need to have the 30AB profiled then see if I can use them or ebay them off. I like some of the aftermarket grind numbers better, but I am still affrain of the narrow lobes.

dwg86 wrote:I bought 2 mopar 30AB cam and lifter kits. My intent was to have these reground to different specs. 30AB specs; 256 advertised dur, .450 lift, centerline 108. Mopar says to mutiply there advertised dur by .85 which would be 217 @ .050. I was wanting less dur @.050 on the intake and more lift on the exhaust and intake. The centerline is what I am concerned about. From what I have been reading the centerline can't be changed on a regrind. The 108 seams a little wide for a computer controlled engine....Unless the intake centerline was 108 and lobe seperation was 112. I need to have the 30AB profiled then see if I can use them or ebay them off. I like some of the aftermarket grind numbers better, but I am still affrain of the narrow lobes.

Multiplying the advertised duration by 0.78 will give you a more accurate 0.050" lift duration number, so 256* advertised would be about 200* at 0.050".
The 108* lobe separation (somewhat narrow) cannot be changed but advancing/retarding the cam changes the intake/exhaust centerlines.

so, the next question is which companies sell the quality lifters?

You should keep one of those 30s and give it a shot--it works great in my 96 w/obd2. The other should sell pretty fast if you advertise here or @ NAXJA. I haven't taken it to the limit yet, but it does 80-100 in 5th effortlessly and still is pulling hard. I'm curious as to how it performs when advanced.