Jeep Strokers

Arp sells head bolts for the amc 258 (part # 112-3601). Does anybody know if these will work on the Jeep 4.0?

The older AMC's didn't have fuel injection so it is not likely the head bolts will the smaller diameter thread above the head of the bolt. You would need a new way to hold your fuel injector wire conduit and i think another wire clip or two. Its been a while since I took my 4.0 apart.

You should consider using a set of main studs or bolts that are meant to be used with a windage tray. We stock most of those bolts at work so I can check the underhead length of the stock head bolt vs. the main stud/bolt.
An ARP dealer might be able to order a special set of bolts so you don't have to buy 2 packs of the main studs.


Those are meant for a SB Ford and look too short. Pontiac's have much longer main bolts and a few came with windage trays but I could not find a picture of them.

~Alex

You need to mix and match two kits from ARP for the 4.0L.
AMC 112-4001 kit combined with Chevy 132-4001 kit will give you two sets of 4.0L head studs.

You might want to drop these folks a line. http://headbolts.com/amc.html
John

Them are some pretty big soup bowl looking pistons. and what's with the yellow top?





Flash

Question on the head studs... on the XJ, how do you get the head off while keeping the engine block in the bay? As it is you can't remove the last bolt on the back of the head fully.. you can disengage the threads but you have to tape it up when you remove the head. Using studs in an engine for an XJ looks like you would have to remove the whole engine to take the head off. Or an I missing something?

As for the coating it could be a thermal barrier coating

SilverXJ wrote:Question on the head studs... on the XJ, how do you get the head off while keeping the engine block in the bay? As it is you can't remove the last bolt on the back of the head fully.. you can disengage the threads but you have to tape it up when you remove the head. Using studs in an engine for an XJ looks like you would have to remove the whole engine to take the head off. Or an I missing something?

with all other head bolts removed, lift the rear head bolt so it is no longer contacting the block and slide the head forward so the bolt can be pulled out. if your block has the stubby head alignment dowels you might need to lift the head off the dowels before you will be able to slide it. installation is a little more difficult. i ended up using a chop saw to cut off the top of the bolt before trying to reinstall it.

EDIT: I guess you could also unbolt the tranny mount and jack the back end of it up to make the motor lean more forward. might be enough to clear that lip on the firewall.

EDIT X2: sorry, i thought you were talking about removing the stock head bolts before installing the head studs. MOD please feel free to delete my post.

Yeah. I was asking about studs. I know the topic is head bolts but the pic that AGRESIVE posted appears to be studs.

SilverXJ wrote:Yeah. I was asking about studs. I know the topic is head bolts but the pic that AGRESIVE posted appears to be studs.

They are, but your right, if you ever need to take the head off (in an XJ) while the block is still in the bay, i would think your screwed..

i agree, i dont see how someone would get the head off a 4.0 in the XJ, especially with ARP head studs. with the regular bolts though, it may be possible. if someone is faced with alot of frustration and not wanting to do ALOT of "extra" work, they find ways, lol. how much would it cost to get those two sets of head studs mentioned above?

In order to get the head off you have to take the studs out also. The ARP studs will have a spot for a allen wrench on top. Pain in the a$$ but can be done.

Alex22 wrote:The older AMC's didn't have fuel injection so it is not likely the head bolts will the smaller diameter thread above the head of the bolt. You would need a new way to hold your fuel injector wire conduit and i think another wire clip or two. Its been a while since I took my 4.0 apart.

You should consider using a set of main studs or bolts that are meant to be used with a windage tray. We stock most of those bolts at work so I can check the underhead length of the stock head bolt vs. the main stud/bolt.
An ARP dealer might be able to order a special set of bolts so you don't have to buy 2 packs of the main studs.


Those are meant for a SB Ford and look too short. Pontiac's have much longer main bolts and a few came with windage trays but I could not find a picture of them.

~Alex

Hi, the only difference with the head bolts is the thread above the head of the bolt for the fuel injection? my engine is with carburator, so can I use the arp head bolts 112-3601? or is it the 112-4001? my cylinder head is from 1991

Why do you need ARP bolts? The factory bolts are 1/2" and should be more than up to the task of holding down the head. Even with some boost I would think you should still be good.

AARON

I heard somewhere that you get a more accurate torque with studs being that you don't have all the friction from the bolt turning in the head don't know if it's true ,but it sounds good to me.

Not sure on your usage of the engine, but you won't have any problem with standard head bolts on a N/A stroker.