Need help with a 4.6 build
Posted: May 16th, 2011, 7:03 am
Hello eveyone, I've been lurking around for a few months and now I'm out of time (gotta drop the block off at the Machine Shop 5/20 and I need your help). My 1998 XJ with stock 4.0 has 262.XXX on the clock and carries about 2 pounds of Oil Pressure at hot idle. Recently it has started making unpleasant noises above 3k RPMs so it's time to pull the trigger. I'll be using it for trail riding mostly but will compete in an occasional Mud Bogg as well (about 2K per year), so I've decided to build a 4.6 Poor Mans. I've been reading everything and understanding very little, add in a Dial-Up connection and you get the picture so I apologize in advance if the question has already been asked and answered. I'm starting with a standard 4.6 "poor man's" recipe.
Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank - I already have this (.10/.10) with very little wear, my only question is how much do I need to have milled off the nose? I read somewhere you can use a washer?
Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods - I have these from the same donor motor above (707's) - I plan to have the machine shop hone them and add ARP rod bolts.
Sealed Power 677CP +0.020" bore pistons - This is where I need help...can I run a +0.030 bore piston without changing my quench? (I'm not smart enough to use the calculator) Also I read somewhere that I need to make sure I get the correct rings because they are different between years? Were these hard to get (I saw on Summit they ship in like 2 weeks but you know how that is) and is there a non-KB alternative?
Stock 4.0 HO camshaft - I have this from the 1999 4.0 Donor Motor with no wear, but what about a Comp 68-231-4? Not counting the Cam how much additional cost is associated with using an aftermarket Cam?
Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head - I plan to Port and Polish the Head (0630) and have the Machine Shop do a 3 angle and lap(?) my existing valves. What springs... ect.... are you guy's who are running the 68-231-4 using?
Stock injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines - Since I have the 96+ setup will a bigger injector be worth the money? I love the Pick and Pull and I've read some about possible donors..... anyone using JY Ford or Dodge injectors?
Machine Shop Questions: (I've never had any machine work done before so I'm trying to keep from making any extra trips, it's an hour drive)
1. I have the Block stripped and ready to go, I don't plan to have the mains journals line honed so should I send the Main caps and stabilizer rail? Also do I need to buy new bolts for the Main Caps or is it ok to use the old ones?
2. Should I bring Freeze Plugs or is that something most Machine Shops do or does it matter either way?
3. Same question for Cam Bearings.
Machine Shop Work:
1. Hot Tank the block
2. Press on new pistons, install ARP Rod Bolts and verify Rod Journal and hone (if required).
3. Turn Crank, mill nose.
4. Press in new Cam Bearings.
5. Press in new Freeze Plugs.
6. 3 angle valve job on head
7. Lap existing valves.
Ok guy's I know this is long but I figured it was better to put it all out there at once. Again this is only a Mud Jeep so it's going to be beat real hard and once broken in this new engine will resemble the rest of the engine compartment... brown. Thanks in advance for any help / criticism you can give me. Oh and by the way I have $1000.00 left for parts and Machine work.
Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank - I already have this (.10/.10) with very little wear, my only question is how much do I need to have milled off the nose? I read somewhere you can use a washer?
Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods - I have these from the same donor motor above (707's) - I plan to have the machine shop hone them and add ARP rod bolts.
Sealed Power 677CP +0.020" bore pistons - This is where I need help...can I run a +0.030 bore piston without changing my quench? (I'm not smart enough to use the calculator) Also I read somewhere that I need to make sure I get the correct rings because they are different between years? Were these hard to get (I saw on Summit they ship in like 2 weeks but you know how that is) and is there a non-KB alternative?
Stock 4.0 HO camshaft - I have this from the 1999 4.0 Donor Motor with no wear, but what about a Comp 68-231-4? Not counting the Cam how much additional cost is associated with using an aftermarket Cam?
Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head - I plan to Port and Polish the Head (0630) and have the Machine Shop do a 3 angle and lap(?) my existing valves. What springs... ect.... are you guy's who are running the 68-231-4 using?
Stock injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines - Since I have the 96+ setup will a bigger injector be worth the money? I love the Pick and Pull and I've read some about possible donors..... anyone using JY Ford or Dodge injectors?
Machine Shop Questions: (I've never had any machine work done before so I'm trying to keep from making any extra trips, it's an hour drive)
1. I have the Block stripped and ready to go, I don't plan to have the mains journals line honed so should I send the Main caps and stabilizer rail? Also do I need to buy new bolts for the Main Caps or is it ok to use the old ones?
2. Should I bring Freeze Plugs or is that something most Machine Shops do or does it matter either way?
3. Same question for Cam Bearings.
Machine Shop Work:
1. Hot Tank the block
2. Press on new pistons, install ARP Rod Bolts and verify Rod Journal and hone (if required).
3. Turn Crank, mill nose.
4. Press in new Cam Bearings.
5. Press in new Freeze Plugs.
6. 3 angle valve job on head
7. Lap existing valves.
Ok guy's I know this is long but I figured it was better to put it all out there at once. Again this is only a Mud Jeep so it's going to be beat real hard and once broken in this new engine will resemble the rest of the engine compartment... brown. Thanks in advance for any help / criticism you can give me. Oh and by the way I have $1000.00 left for parts and Machine work.
.....What Ricer? Thanks SilverXJ I'll ask the Shop if they require them for setup. Oh and here's "Chief" my pride and Joy...
