Jeep Strokers

Ok my jeep over heated the other day, was on the way home just as i pull up to the drive way the engine began to miss then turn off i feguire it was to hot. anyway when it cool down i replace a leaky hose that seem to be the cause of the over heating . The thing is now it wont start I thaught it was a bad coil i did a spark plug test there was no spark, got a new coil did a spark plug test again with new coil still no spark could it be my (crank postion sensor)? connection are all good very stump

I'd suspect the CPS--the most common culprit for Jeeps that crank but don't start. If it's not even cranking and you have an auto, the NSS is the most common culprit.

Yeah, that what am thinking the thing is i just replace it like not even a year ago, I thaught it was bad and it wasnt so i keep it on i would try my old one but cant find it I was also going to check the dist. in the moreing I dont rember if my dist has a pick-up coil in it ?

Jeeps can start without the cam position sensor connected, but a short in any of the sensors can short out the asd relay(check that too--swap with a known good relay, ie starter, ac, etc) and make it not start.

Yeah I check the relays and fuse they are working good am going to see if I can run a volt meter to the pick up coil to see If it is working. LoL Its the only thing on my jeep I dont rember ever replaceing

Well that didn't work, now I got to index the dist. NOT EVEN A MISS FIRE ( I feel like Tom Hanks when he trying to get his fire started on "Cast Away".) Well I guess I can try again today, Hey does any one know if the "Ballast Coil Resistor" on the drive side under the hood would keep the engine from Turing over? I remember mine would get really hot but it doesn't have any cracks or smell burn i don't know if that means its bad.

You can bypass the ballast resistor. Ohm it out. I believe that it drops voltage to the fuel pump? As for indexing the dizzy: You took out spark plug 1, had someone put their finger over the hole while you turned the crank by hand until the timing mark was on 0 and air was being pushed out of the cylinder past your helper's finger? Know that the crank spins 2x for every 1x the cam spins(thus dizzy too) so you might have to spin the crank another 360* to get to the end of the compression stroke. Remove the dizzy, remove the plastic plate that holds the cam sensor under the rotor, align the hole right at the edge of the half moon with the hole underneath it in the housing and put a skinny phillip's head screwdriver through it to lock it in place. Take a long flat head screw driver and make sure the oil pump slot is oriented in the ~10:30/4:30 position(from passenger fender viewpoint). Hold the dizzy above the hole like it is going to be when it is mounted, rotate ~1/6th turn CCW, drop it in and the whole housing will rotate into place. Bolt it down, remove phillips, install plastic plate, install rotor--should be pointing to the 4:30 position, which you'll see is just past the #1 terminal on the dizzy. Your dizzy is correctly indexed(but your main issue might not be solved).

Thanks for the descrption and yeah I agree I dont think its going to fix my orginal issue I just dont understand why the plugs r not getting fire my rocker arms are moveing so l dont think my timeingchain is busted its getting fuel ,comperssion,. The map sensor is good I didnt volt check the Cps but I know it is magnatizeing (dont really know if that means its good) but it is pretty new I know I will get it just sux right now

If you unplug the CKP(CMP is cam position, CKP is crank position, people get confused with CPS) and look at the connector, it is an oval with a jut in the left bottom corner, A is the pin closest to the jut, B the middle, and C the far side. My Fluke reads the resistance between B and C to be 4.6-6.3 mega-ohms. If you have a meter that can read 1-10Kohms, B-C should read infinite. A reading of single digits, hundreds, or thousands means the coil is completely or partially shorted.

You can completely remove the ballast resistor. Its for the fuel pump and just keeps form running full speed all the time.

Well, guess what it was.....really guess.... it was that stupid not even a year old (cam position sensor). I put a meter to it and I wasn't getting any readings out of it so, I pick one up at my local auto parts store and installed it and the engine started to turn over. It got to late out side so I wasn't able to index the dist. (Not really looking forward to that), this would be the second time i had to put it in time and i think I was just lucky the last time in getting it right BUT WE WILL SEE. But anyways it turning over, so am happy will thanks for your help Gradon if you are ever in S.A T.X I will must surely buy you a beer.

Not really a guess. It was mentioned by Gradon. When you don't have spark the CPS is the usual culprit. Even if the distributor wasn't indexed correctly you still should have had spark, just at the wrong time if you had a good cps. Also, the cam sensor in the distributor controls when the injectors are firing. The one in my ZJ died last summer. Was driving to work and lost power. Wouldn't restart. No prior warning at all. No spark. Replaced the CPS and it started.

Yeah I just found it strage because the CPS is so new it wasnt even a year old hopefully this well last longer.

Good to hear.