timing check

[BDD]

Hi my name is Duane
Ive been lurking around this site for a few months now reading and learning all that i can about our jeep motors.I just want to say thank you for all of the great advice and tips ive got from here,it made building my first (non chevy)stroker a no brainer.Ive got about 1100 miles on it and am almost totally happy. Of course ive got a question for the gurus,i searched for a couple hours and cant seem to find the info im looking for,im sure its here,just havnt found it. Here my build

Kb 944 020 over
Block not decked
12 wt crank
98 4.0 rods arp bolts
Stock #630 head cut .010 to flatten, perf. Valve grind
505 perf. stage 1 cam
Stock valve springs
Stock inj. Have ford f2leb2a but they run to rich.
Stock throttle body (63mm ordered)
Stock header (banks ordered)
Stock exiaust (banks ordered)
I did not port my head or degree my cam (i know) because its my dd and was in a rush.
It runs fine,no codes,starts great,its a little lazy under 2500rpm but its in a 98 tj with 373 gears and 32/1150 tires so i know it needs 456 gears.
its obd 2 and it didnt have any power at first so i busted the ears of the dizzy and advaced it until it (busted ear on dizzy) hits the block and stops.like i said it runs fine,never pings on 87 octane.is there a way to check timing on obd2? Where should it be at idle? what rpm should advance be all in?i know the computor controls it for the most part but is there any thing i can check?change? will i see improvments with a simple tuner like jet,superchips or do i need a unichip? or similer?im not at all computor savvy,ill be lucky if i get this to post.
i have a aem wideband and it runs real good with stock inj. a little lean wot 13.2 but pretty good every where else.
thanks in advance,sorry im sure this has been discussed,im just not finding exactly what i need.

[SilverXJ]

Don't mess with the distributor. Re index it correctly and leave it alone. Turning it does not adjust timing, but screws up the fuel injector sync. The PCM controls all the timing and while a UNI chip can adjust it the stock curve is pretty good and there is really no need to do so.

Once you get the TB, header, correct injectors, exhaust it will wake it up some.

Your main drawback is the cam. It isn't a low end torque cam but more of a mid range to high rpm cam. Quite similar to the HESCO RVOB. Advancing it 4 degrees would help. And it should have been degreed in because you have no idea where it is now.. it could be retarded, and causing it to be lazy at low RPM.

[BDD]

I agree i should have degreed my cam and i will once the weather is better,i was driving my 83 400hp z28 through the worst snow we've ever had in febuary in michigan so i was in a hurry and skiped that importent step.
I was under the impresion that this is a low end cam,its way smaller then the comp most of you guys run.505 perf told me it was a low end cam,even said i should go stage 2 because this one would be done at 4500rpm?i went with the stage one because of all the cam failers ive read about,seems splash lubed jeep cams dont like big spring pressure so i stayd with stock springs.i plan on big cam,springs,valves,porting in the future,after i buy a dd besides my camaro.

[SilverXJ]

It has close to the same lift as the Comp 68-231-4 does on its exhaust. The Stage 1's lift is .484" on both exhaust and intake. Which is .056" before the stock springs bind (1.10"). I have been told you want at least .060" before coil bind. Then you also have to take into account possibly valve float using the weak stock springs. I wouldn't run the stock springs with that cam.

However the 505 cam has more duration than the Comp Cam which would move its torque higher in the curve as well as giving it a gentler lobe profile. If thec am is installed striaght up, advancing it 4* will more the torque curve down some in the RPM range.

[BDD]

I guess i asumed i had the "stage 1" cam,the card reads
Duration at .o50 intake 208 ex.212
Gross lift intake 427 ex438
Seperation 114
Duration at .006 in 263 ex 265
When you say re index the dist do you mean the tooth pick thing i read about somewhere? If im correct my motor wouldnt run well at all if the dist. was a tooth off.it runs real well i just feel like some power is missing.should the dist. Need to be advanced (ears cut off) because of aftrmarket cam or is that just obd1 ? Sorry im so confused,i dont learn,or retain what i learned nearly as well as when i was a youngster.thanks for any and all imput,along with all the advice ive allready gotten from this site.

[BDD]

This is funny,or just the luck i'm used to having lately.As i said earlier my dist was advanced until the first busted ear hit the block and it ran pretty good,(so i thought)no codes,better power then the 4.0 and,like i said no codes.
so i did the toothpick trick and the dist.will not not fall in exactly with ears in each side of bolt,it lands with the ear pointing over the bolt hole,if i move a tooth it lands with the other ear over the bolt hole.is this aftermarket cam?cam not degreed? That would make more sence,since i new better and didn't do it anyways.
I dropped the dist in and retarded it(clockwise)that 1/2 ear to get the bolt between the ears,started right up,maybe even a smoother idle,and ran fine.I went a couple miles and shut it off,got gas and when i started it i got ck eng lite,first time in 1200 miles since i put it in.i went home and cleared the computer,went for a ride and it ran great,the power is way better,a huge difference.
I put 20 or so miles on it, it ran awsume,now its hard to watch afr under acceleration.
Shut it off,start up 5 min later and ck eng lite is back on.
i'm thinking i will try the tooth pick again,this time moving the dist. To the tooth that puts the opposite ear in line with the hole,now i will be advancing the housing for the bolt to fall between the ears.
If that doesn't work i might try droping my original dist. (With the cut ears) in it and bolt it down exactly where the toothpick puts it,(ear lined up with bolt hole) i think this would be about 1/2 way between where it is now (huge power,eng lite comes on)and where it was for 1200 miles(adv till ear hit block,decent power,no eng lite)
I know if you were here id let ya kick me for not degreeing my cam,im kicking myself.
At least i've never heard any ping, at all,ever,even lugging up big hills in 4th at 1500 rpm
Thanks again ill keep ya posted,got ideas? I need them.

[IH 392]

What was the code??

[SilverXJ]

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

And x2.. what was the code?

[BDD]

Iirc code1391 ign. Or missfire is all my tool said.
Should i have to cut ears with aftermarket cam?

[BDD]

Re indexed dist. With tooth pick and checked it with the 3 centimeter rotor to cps edge.both seem to put it with the ear lined up with hold down bolt hole,so i cut the ear and put it there.runs good,no no codes yet.i wish i would of degreed my cam,im thinking thats why i had to cut the ear.
Ill be pulling it down in the future to degree cam,just so i know for sure the ear needs to be cut.

[SilverXJ]

Its quite common to have to cut the ears when using an aftermarket cam.

And it appears you do have the stage 1 cam shaft. I was going off my notes from when I talked with Zack a while ago. Looks like they revised all their cam specs.

[BDD]

Thanks for your help,i put about 50 miles on it and its running great,crazy power for what is in my opinion,and no codes. I cant wait to get my header,exaust,and throttle body.My next step is a explorer 8.8 rear axle and some 456 gears with tru tracs in both axles.

[BDD]

Just a little update. I've got about 2000 miles on it and all is well except a freeze plug thats weeping,just my stupid luck.my machinist used brass and put sealent on them but its seeping just a little bit.hopefully it seals itself or i have to try to replace it and theres not much room to work on it in the jeep.
I got my header installed so i thought i would try my bigger injectors as it runs pretty well on the stock ones but i dont dare floor it because it goes past 13 on my wideband at wot.
I bought some ford f2Leb2a inj. And had them cleaned and new screens put in.i was hoping that they would be a decent match,but it runs really rich, like 10 on my wideband at any rpm,it barely runs. I read some where that they are 24lbs. When my fuel sync was off,it actually ran ok on them,it was rich,but you could drive it if you advanced the dist. Any one run the f2Leb2a with any luck? I was thinkink of trying the neon inj. Part num. Ending in 55703 from the junk yard but dont want to spend $80 plus $80 to clean and match 6 of them as they would be coming from two diff. Cars.
Any ideas? Any recomenddations? I think im barely getting by on my stock inj. Because of my small cam and no porting,plus stock throttle body and exaust. My throttle body is due monday and my exaust should be soon after so i need some more fuel soon.
Thanks again, you guys are great.

[SilverXJ]

did you reset the PCM after changing the injectors? Also, that 24 PSI is probably taken at a different PSI than your fuel rail.

What year jeep is this?

[BDD]

Ya i unhooked the battery and turned the lights on for a couple min. Then touched the pos and neg cable together. Is there a better way? My scan tool wont reset it unless it throws a code.
Its a 98, my motor specs are in my first post.
Just got my throttle body from extreme efi,of course its for obd1 with no provisions for a map senser,even tho i sent them a obd2 core and put a note with it that it was for a 98. I swear they are the most incompotent company i've ever dealt with.