Girls like Strokin too :P

[Tinga]

UPDATE: Cam break in went smoothly, started up first try. Did 3- 10 minute sessions carrying the RPM each session.
Shop is keeping it for another day though, started getting a bit warm 210* and was still going up. They think it might be the used clutch fan. Bought another one and took it out to them.
Was able to get around the whole electrical fan/ water pump pulley issue. Ditched the 89 water pump ( so if you need a new one, lemme know lol) and went with a 94 clutch fan and water pump. Was able to use the 2002 serpentine belt after that, although there was a few custom brackets made for the alternator and power steering I believe.

Tomorrow they will dial in the timing a bit better ( sputtered a bit on start-up after the break in), put on the new clutch fan, run a diagnostic and make sure we are good to go. I didn't get any video as we had the kiddos with us and I had to keep them from re stylizing the inside of the rig LOL

[SilverXJ]

Timing is non adjustable. You put the distributor in one correct place and leave it there.

[Tinga]

I'mI hoping they get it all worked out. They have a few culprits to look at. We replaced the distributor drive gear as well. The old one looked fine with some wear on it, but figured might as well have a new gear to mate up with the cam. AND the CPS was changed out ( old one had been completely melted through)

[Tinga]

Its throwing codes now.
P1391
P0340
P0351

Mechanic is saying the Cam Position Sensor and Crank Position Sensor are out of sync. Does well when cool, but sputters and dies when its hot.
We replaced the Crank Position Sensor since the other one was fried when "friend" mechanic unbolted transmission
We also replaced the Distributor Drive gear, because the previous one, was worn.

Any ideas that we could pass on to fix this to him?? What could it be?

[gradon]

It is out of sync, thus the 1391. Bring piston #1 to TDC at the end of the compression stroke by having one person turning the crank bolt clockwise until the timing is at 0* and at the same time another person has their finger over the hole where sparkplug 1 is(you have to take it out). The person should feel air pushing out as you get to 0*. If he doesn't feel it, you are at the end of the intake stroke and have to spin the engine another 360* to get to the end of the compression stroke. Once you've done that, take the rotor off the dizzy and the rotor should be just past the #1 post(good to mark the base where #1 is before you pull off the cap), but yours is not. Then you need to pull the dizzy out, use the toothpick/shaft method to hold the timing window to the base, use a long screwdriver to adjust the oilpump slot to 10:30-11 o'clock position(from passenger fender viewpoint), then drop the dizzy in so that it will rotate until the rotor is just past #1. From page 2 of Bratcop's stroker build: http://motorage.search-autoparts.com/mo ... rticle.pdf

[Tinga]

Thanks. I forwarded that PDF off to them and highlighted pretty much what you said. They DID say the overheating went away with the new fan clutch and it stayed a hair under 210*.

[Tinga]

Fixed the cam/crank issue. No longer throwing those codes but now they are saying the #1 cylinder/coil is throwing a code Husband went out today and he said: That from the ckps to the PCM is all good. they probed it and it was getting the signal and voltage and was all good. He would wiggle the "A" portion of the plugin at the PCM and it would start to stutter NOW.... We might need a new PCM?? Sounds like a loose connection to me considering the jackhole that yanked the engine did NOT disconnect / remove the CkPS from the bell housing before he took a cutting torch to it.

Still waiting. I think someone on my forehead in invisible ink there is a tattoo that reads F**k ME!

[Tinga]

All the problems turned out to be a bad (new) CkPS. Just bought the damn thing too. Time to call them and say WTF.
23 miles on the new motor so far, Amsoil oil with ZDDP additive. Sounds a bit, growly(er) than before and I can definitely tell my Jeep from a regular 4.0. Better throttle response and a put your head back into the seat feeling when you give the skinny pedal some love.
Husband is making fun of me because I want to change the mufflers out to Purple Horneys. Not that I particularly care for them, I have Flowmaster 40s on now. I just want to be able to say she's stroked and Horney lol... Will post some pictars and videos later.

[Muad'Dib]

I just want to be able to say she's stroked and Horney lol...

Nice1

[IH 392]

Straight sixes actually sound really crappy with glass packs, bet that Flowmaster sounds pretty SWEET!

[Tinga]

Its pretty throaty and low. I'll see if I can't get some help with a video. We are now 50 miles into the motor. putting around town, varying the RPMs and making sure everything stays within the norm. So far, so good.

[amcinstaller]

I just want to be able to say she's stroked and Horney lol...

too funny

[Tinga]

Did a little badging today and enjoying the day. Got the Jeep back, found out today my application was accepted so now I have a JOB!!!



Brown Dogs ( got the Poly Bushings and they seem to do a VERY nice job)



Hesco Valve Cover Spacer and Hi-Flow Thermostat housing spacer. Why the spacer.?? The work the machine shop would have had to do to get the HS Roller rockers to fit (notably the PCV valve clearance) would have been just about the same as the price of the spacer. EVEN after milling the stud bosses for the guide plates the RR were still hitting.

And of course the Supposed to be VHT paint. Primer stayed on, but the black peeled?? Oh well
Still waiting on some video though. Sounds significantly quieter in the valve train. Not that annoying clicking sound anymore.

[jbxx]

The thermostat spacer is there because the rear facing hose will not fit if you put a valve cover spacer on ( I tried it without ).

[Tinga]

Yeah, I was referencing the VC spacer lol
Benny was great though at Hesco, not to chatty but he seems to knows his stuff.