Jeep Strokers

So my story goes about 2 weeks ago with out warning a valve dropped into piston 3 of my motor. So now I'm trying to decide wether to build a new stroker or buy a new titan 4.9 forged stroker. Which is right around 4grand. Locally i found a motor with 164 thousand miles out of a 94 Cherokee for 250 and compression checked out on all the cylinders. now I need opinions do I:
A. build the stoker I've never built a motor and don't know what I'm doing not that i cant figure it out
B. buy the stock motor swap it in and save the money for the stroker from titan
id also like to use 87 octane with the price of gas

i just finished my first stroker and first motor build and it suggest building. i figured it out with some help from the forum..
as for the gas im not sure, i have to run at least 91 but shoot for a low compression motor if u want to keep the octane low

iaml3lue wrote: So now I'm trying to decide wether to build a new stroker or buy a new titan 4.9 forged stroker. Which is right around 4grand.

Titan has a very bad rep around these parts. Whatever you do, DON'T rush into that!

As far as build vs buy......... Depends on $$$(doesn't it always), time,room to work, access to machine shop,etc.

Well pesonally I would go ahead and get the motor for 250 and put it in for now if you trust its a decent motor. Use the one you pulled out and start building the stroker you want the way you want it. You can still drive your jeep while you build and do any and all upgrades you want.Y ou will have more satisfaction with your own build and you can do it as fast or slow as you want plus money can be saved to buy the parts you want. Just my opinion.

Although Titan engines have a good price, I know some who have had problems.
I´d rather build it myself.

My stroker was my first rebuild. I have 850+ miles on it now with ZERO problems, including an oil analysis at 500 miles from Blackstone Labs. Rebuild it yourself, but buy or rent "Basic Engine Building" produced by Boxwrench media (boxwrench.net to buy or rent form smartflix.com) because it was my step-by-step complete guide. I am mechanically inclined and the most advanced task before my stroker was installing a lift. You CAN do it on your own. Any tools that you need you can buy from HF or rent from Autozone.

alright well a guy in my jeep club posted this
Posting for a friend: 4.7 liter stroked short block (6 cylinder).
-Forged pistons
-Heavy duty rods
-ARP rod bolts
-Moly rings
-Toolsteel wrist pins
-Comp Cams camshaft


hes asking 1400 and im going to get more info on it but im gonna have a bunch of questions after i get the info
like head can i use a stock head also can use use a stock throttle bodie until i can afford to buy a new one

You need to check which pistons that engine has and rods...but it's looking like some kind of a deal, the others here can say if it's really good or not.
You can probably bolt the stock head and TB to that engine especially if it's the stock cam, and drive it like that. I have a bored TB and personally I don't think it's a requirement, I've been looking forward to bolting up a stock one to see the difference.

In response to your first question. If you decide to build a motor (which is my vote) you may find a local person or friend to build your motor for a lower cost, as long as they've done it before and you can see their results. I did that and it ended up good. Or you can get someone to help you build one, depending on your level of mechanical ability and confidence. You should have no problem building a motor (the only reason I didn't is because I had a job where I traveled 75% of the time and didn't have time to do it myself) and getting it running, this board and the knowledge here is a great source for everything you want to know. Check and double check your math and be smart about spending money...you'll come out happy with a peppy motor that pulls harder than you believe it could.

You will need to get the cam # or specs. If the lift isn't too much you can slap on a stock head. Otherwise you'll need to change springs and maybe machine the pockets/ seats. The stock TB will be fine. Don't forget the injectors

Okay, he actually has TWO heads, but neither of them are rebuilt. Cam specs are as follows:

RPM Range: 1400 - 5700
Valve Timing: .006
Lobe Center Angle: 111
Intake Centerline: 107
Duration: 262 Intake, 270 Exhaust
Duration at .050" lift: 218 Intake, 226 Exhaust
Valve Lift: .493 Intake, .512 Exhaust
Lobe Lift: .308 Intake, .32 Exhaust

That's the CompCams 68-235-4 which is fine.
The short block looks like a good deal but I'd want to know more about the parts that went in it. My guess is that it has the 4.0L rods and Keith Black IC944 pistons.
You can use the stock head and TB but I'd suggest porting the head and using a 62mm TB instead. The 4.7 engine needs to breathe. You'll need the Mopar Performance valve springs P5249464, retainers P4452032, & locks P4529218 to cope with the higher valve lift, and I'd also suggest adding roller rockers e.g. Harland Sharp S40196 for valvetrain stability.