4.6 build

[jbxx]

Finally started:

[jbxx]

Engine out!

[SilverXJ]

Don't forget to put sealant on the #11 head bolt when putting it back together to stop the coolant from leaking out. Looks like that step may have been missed on that engine.

Whats the info on the fire truck?

[jbxx]

Dodge 1953 M-37 firetruck resto project

[SilverXJ]

Nice. I like that.

[jbxx]

[jbxx]

[jbxx]

[jbxx]

Here's the build specs
pics of important pieces to follow
Block Renix 88 donor Rods 4.0 Stock (if fit after decking)
Water pump Renix

Head intake & exhaust 95 Donor 7021 Head
Timing gears wi chain Mopar DCC 5249519

Crank Scat 9-4.2L-3895

Valves 95 Donor
Top end studs Hesco/ARP HESHS6
Bottom end studs Hesco/ARP HESMS6
Rod studs ARP 112-6001
Roller Rockers Harland Sharp HS 851-S40196 (Maybe, not decided yet)
Camshaft Comp PN 68-232-4
Freeze plugs Dorman RNB-567-017
Oil pump Melling M167HVS

Push rod checker Comp 7704-1
Head gasket Fel Pro complete kit QKS2133
Intake gasket /\/\/\/\/\
Exhaust gasket /\/\/\/\/\
Crankshaft r main seal #05018594AA

Pistons Bultear (ordered 2/20/10 not delivered as of 1/16/2011) + .030

Rings Hastings Wiseco 3905H
Main bearings Clevite CLE-MS704P10
Rod bearings Fedral Mogul FEM-6-3310CPA
Crank thrust bearing
Cam bearings


Springs Mopar PN 5249464
Keepers/ retainers Mopar 312-P4452032
Valve locks 8mm Mopar 4529218(8*)
fuel injectors 24# Denso/Ford F2LE


Thermostat

Assembly lube


Machine work:

Description Shop
Tank
Magnaflux
Deck block to "zero"
Bore cylinders
Bore Crank galley
Balance crank (?)
Balance rotating (?)
Assembly
Deck head
Grind valves
Grind seats
Shot blast
Resize rods
weight balance?
Shot peen rods?

[SilverXJ]

Looks a lot like my original build except i used the 68-231-4 cam. What dish dimension did you go with on the pistons?

Also, what I would change:
-Use a cloyes double roller timing set. I don't know what the mopar is but it may just be a cloyes, relabeled with a higher price.
-Skip the studs. Stock bolts are plenty strong for a NA stroker. I have only heard of one person break a stock bottom end
-When you install the ARP rod bolts (recommended) you will need to resize the rods.
-I would specify a 3 angle valve job on the cylinder hear.
-As for balancing. Get the crank balance checked (I would like to see how Scat's crank balances out) and have the rods and pistons weight matched. The machine shop will not balance the rotating assembly using bob weights as with a V8 as it is already in balance. If they say otherwise find a new shop.
-Shot peen the rods if possible, cryo tempering is also good. Actually cryotempering anythign is a good idea provided you can afford it. The same goes for coatings.

[jbxx]

Intake and TB and rail from 95 HO

7120 head from 95 HO

Scat Crank


Comp Cam and Lifters

Harland Sharp rockers, dual timing chain and sprockets Head Bolts, crank bolts and rod bolts

Had all this stuff for about six months.
Waiting on pistons (11 months) for machine work and that will determine bearings etc.

[jbxx]

88 Renix Block

[jbxx]

Bulltear cutom forged pistons .030 over

[jbxx]

Back from the machine shop.
Hot tanked
Assembled to find deck hight
unassembled
Decked to zero
Recon rods
Balance
3 way on the cylinder head
Resurface cylinder head
Resurface flywheel

[jbxx]

Degreeing the Cam, within 1 deg!

# 11 stud protrudes down into the water pump galley, I was lucky and had an old water pump that I had replaced 20 yrs ago to check it before loctite and assembly.


# 12 stud is too high if you use the stock valve cover. I think I'm going to go with the HS rollers so I'm going to have to buy a Hesco valve cover extension,
so it may not be an issue.

Just a candy engine shot.