Head or Valve Train Geometry

[gradon]

Okay so now that I know about making the hydraulic lifter solid(glue recommendations?): After the bottom end is done, I use the homemade solid lifter and put it in intake # 1, put headgasket(old or new?--if old then it would be better for me to keep the stock size felpro so measurements will be comparable) on block, tighten head down(old bolts have been used once, but the test will be the second time--I wasn't necessarily gonna buy new bolts, but now I'll probably have to), put adjustable pushrod in, sharpie the valve tip, put rocker on w/ stud @ 21ft/lbs, adjust pushrod to zero lash, tighten stud another 1/2 turn, crank engine over by hand a couple revs, remove rocker and look at sharpie wear pattern on valve tip, determine if the pushrod needs to be shorter, longer, or good and adjust and repeat sharpie pattern check until pattern is in the middle of the stem tip. Remove rocker, pushrod, head, gasket, homemade lifter. Measure adjustable pushrod and buy a set that is closest. What say you?

[Flash]

Okay so now that I know about making the hydraulic lifter solid(glue recommendations?): After the bottom end is done, I use the homemade solid lifter and put it in intake # 1, put headgasket(old or new?--if old then it would be better for me to keep the stock size felpro so measurements will be comparable) on block, tighten head down(old bolts have been used once, but the test will be the second time--I wasn't necessarily gonna buy new bolts, but now I'll probably have to), put adjustable pushrod in, sharpie the valve tip, put rocker on w/ stud @ 21ft/lbs, adjust pushrod to zero lash, tighten stud another 1/2 turn, crank engine over by hand a couple revs, remove rocker and look at sharpie wear pattern on valve tip, determine if the pushrod needs to be shorter, longer, or good and adjust and repeat sharpie pattern check until pattern is in the middle of the stem tip. Remove rocker, pushrod, head, gasket, homemade lifter. Measure adjustable pushrod and buy a set that is closest. What say you?

If your taking a but tightening the rocker arm bolt another 1/2 DON'T DO THAT!

I would us the head gasket that you are going to use (thickness wise.045 .051) for the test......Make sure every thing is super CLEAN on block and head.

Install head, torque all head bolts to 35 esh and do you test.

Remember, the last bit of torque is just the spring load of the bolt so that compression can't over come the head gasket when there's fuel exploding in the cylinder.

I would be willing to bet, that there would not be .001 difference in deck height between 30 psi and final bolt torque.

Then ones you have done all your test and are ready to do the final install............You could us that same gasket and re torque to factory spec.............the safe bet would be to us a fresh one...........
You could also us your old .051 gasket for figuring thing up, the when you order you push rods, or shims or both subtract .008" from your figures(.051-.043) and there ya go


Flash

[John]

If you use a test, solid lifter do not tighten that bolt until you have verified clearance. Or the preload will be the pushrod or rocker arm bending or the valve opening. When you are sure you can tighten the rocker arm bolt without compressing the pushrod, do so. You need to make sure the collapsed length is short enough. After that you are on track. Add .045 inch to the length of the measured pushrod to give the length for preload. Gasket. I don't use a gasket for measuring, I use shim stock, front to back,in the thickness of the head gasket I will be using, head bolts, Flash hit it right, 30/35 ft pounds will not stretch the bolts and they can be used again. Glue for the lifter, I use super glue.
John