Jeep Strokers

iirc turbo tom cracked a few sets of pistons befor selling the motor. chime in big guy. maybe with a link to your build sheet?

How about 265 hp and 425 lb/ft at only 1750 rpms. All with 36 mpg on the highway. BMW diesel.

Seriously, Can you fit in a class with the BMW 3 0 diesel. Some tuners in Germany can do even better than that.

First I stumbled in here looking for something in a different direction. If you can punch the AMC block out to 4*" and use a 199 crank you've got the same bore and stroke as a '67 through '69 Z28. IMO the best of all of the chevy small blocks.
The other thing is I know** that in the mid '60s AMC ran OHC versions of the 199/232 but did not put them into production. If the drawings for them could be found with modern stereo lith technology castings would not be as difficult as in the past.
A clean sheet design is not out of the question given Stereo lith either
Any OHC could have the intake where ever you need it. The only thing you need the original cam for is running the oil pump. Either drive the distributor off of the cam or just go electronic. Given enough money all most anything is possible.
At that point why not just design a new block casting and use 4 bolt mains or a full girdle
Plus here is the kicker. Chrysler was working on a pushrod 24V head for the 4.0 in the '90s.

* blocks out of Mexico (282/4.6L) had a bore of 3.917
** retired out of KEP so I am familiar with most of the manufacturing processes used in the engines production

Sooo...ive been away for a while and Im going to re-re-revive this thread from the dead. Pete (Plectan), Its been a while since we talked last but have you pushed forward with either the turbo setup or a redesigned head setup? Will you be at the tool show this year?

the_wrench116 wrote:iirc turbo tom cracked a few sets of pistons befor selling the motor. chime in big guy. maybe with a link to your build sheet?

I dont think turbotoms going to be back on here anytime soon, but ill share what i know about his engine. He had a beautifully simple combination of simplicity in his engine block. Stock rods, crank, .03? diamond forged pistons (second build; stock first go round). The head was an 0331 with SS LS1 valves(2.02/1.60), heavy valve springs, Ti retainers and keepers and a VERY mild port match/port. He ran a fairly radical isky cam. Ive bought the cylinder head from him in sept of 2010 when I was finishing up my stroker. Its been running well for over a year now, however im planning on redoing his/my head with 0630 head and swapping over the valves....and a supercharger

I know this thread has been mordibund for a whilebut
http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/f ... ine_build/ take two GM LQ-1 cylinder heads and build an inline 6 head out of them. The spec sheet I googled off of the net says a 4.400 bore center distance with about a 3.625 bore so valve distance to cylinder wall should not be an issue the cam drive would need to be worked out

just an Idea?

http://www.classicinlines.com/XFheadswap.asp

anybody got sum heads we could weld together?

http://www.classicinlines.com/XFheadswap.asp


anybody know if this will work on our jeep blocks?

A four-litre version (C40SE) was also developed by Irmscher, and installed in the Opel Omega A and Senator B. These engines have a bore and stroke of 98 mm (3.9 in) and 88 mm (3.5 in) respectively, for an overall displacement of 3,983 cc (243 cu in). Power is 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp).

just came across this looking for ideas about intakes and its inline 6 engine... anyone have cylinder head specs?

Hey all! I saw this and made an account just to reply! This thread can't die! I gotta know about the 2.5L head swap, did anyone have any success in it? Do I need to pick this up? I'm getting ready to put the 505 Performance stroker into my engine and wouldn't mind figuring out the next steps. Just need to plan it out, budget it, and then act on it.

Thanks

I joined this forum just to reply to this great thread. I have been doing some work on the 2.5 with a Ford 351 Cleveland head. What I have figured out so far.
1) head bolts are 3/8" off
2) water jacket holes need to be moved
3) oil drain back holes need to be delt with
4) intake is on passenger side.
5) stock Ford driver side exhaust manifold should work
6) custom cam 1 and 3 are good 2 and 4 need their intake and exhaust swapped.
6) 505 performance has a stroker crank for the 2.5
7) the stock bore is 3.875" and Ford is 4"
8) bore spacing is the same 4.38"
9) the 351M/400 Ford 335 series has smaller ports and valves than the 351 Cleveland 4V head that was too big for even the stock Ford engine.
10) aluminum heads are available

I have matched up the gaskets and they are fairly close. My thought is to shift the head to the drivers side and line up the passenger side bolt holes. This will get the pushrods in better alignment and move the intake valve closer to the center of the bore and will unshroud the valve a bit better. The exhaust side head bolt holes in the head could be offset drilled and 1.125" aluminum bar stock could be welded in top and bottom to seal up the water jacket. Then drill the new bolt holes in their proper location. This will give it .25" thick wall on the water jacket to head bolt.

I know that the block can be safely bored to .060 making the bore 3.935" which isn't quite what the Ford 4" bore is. I will have the block sonic checked to see if it is possible to go to a 4" bore. If so I can probably use Ford Pistons with a bit of modification. I think that the bottom of the head on the push rod side needs to have a flat piece welded to it to seal up the deck. I have a complete 2.5 with a renix fuel injection system on it. I might want to go carburetor for simplicity but need an 84-85 distributor for it. I have not addressed the intake manifold yet but that can wait.

I am going to do the 2.5 stroker 351 Cleveland head engine as a test bed. After it is sorted out then I want to move on to building a stroked 4.0 6 cylinder with two 351 Cleveland heads cut and welded together.
Jim Ford
Highway 101 Rod and Custom

Well i'm glad to see this picked up! Any "head" way on it? I ended up getting married and now getting invested into the venture.

I have been doing some more work on this head swap. I bought a used Australian 302 Cleveland closed chamber head. After doing more measurements I can't really offset the head that far without having a problem with the exhaust valve clipping the side of the cylinder. The plan now is too mill the bolt holes sideways 3/16" on each side to address this problem.

The cast iron head has triangular water jacket holes that will end up outside the block on the driver side and inside the push rod area on the passenger side along with the crossover square passages that need to be blocked off. The other problem is with the intake push rod angle. It would require that the side of the block be relieved to clear them. This would require a piece of flat stock being attached to the outside of the block to seal it up. The intake side of the head is not extended down to the deck height so a plate would have to be bolted on the side to address this.

Some possible answers to these problems are to do what some racers did back in the 70's. They used a 3 piece push rod system that has a small connector in a sleeve between two short push rods to deal with the angle and block clearance.

I have thought about using a 3/16" thick plate on top of the block and a longer connecting rod or a longer stroke crank or different piston pin height to make up the difference. The plate would be bolted to the top of the deck and be big enough to cover all the holes in the head. It could also have the push rod lifters Incorporated into it for the 3 piece push rod. As long as the piston top to the top ring land was enough this extra 3/16" height would work.

Another option is to use an aluminum aftermarket Cleveland head on it. My first choice for the best head is CHI head from Australia. Unfortunately the cost is quite high for these heads. On the plus side most of the holes in the deck are round so plugging them would be easier. The intake ports are raised for a straighter shot into the valve and the intake side of the head goes to the deck. The intake runners are 185cc which gives higher port velocity for more low end torque but big enough to not suffer on the top end. The exhaust ports are raised up 1" compared to a stock Cleveland head as this was the biggest problem with the original design.

There is still the problem with the sealing area on the push rod side and the push rod angle. This can be addressed by bolting a plate on the inside of the head under the intake ports that will seal the block and contain the push rod lifters for the 3 piece push rod.

One thing that I did notice when looking at this is when I laid the 4.0 6 cylinder head gasket on the Cleveland head it lined up perfectly with the side of the head. I looked at all 3 of the 6 cylinder engines that I have. A 258, a Renix 4.0 and HO 4.0. the 258 has some areas that are inset on the side of the block and the 4.0 blocks are mostly straight down the side so that so that there wouldn't be the problem that the 2.5 block has.

I will try to update what I have figured out here.

We can already achieve max power output per bore size with the stock 2 valve Jeep heads and flat tappet camshaft setup. The only head design that would be worth pursuing is a 4 valve pentroof chamber with Duramax/Cummins 6.7L style valvetrain. We would need a solid roller camshaft as well.

How reliable would a welded together SBF or LS7 head be on top of high cylinder pressure? Valve diameters will max out at 2.080"-1.60" regardless of which head is being fitted to the block. Are the slightly more efficient port designs worth a power increase? The iron Jeep heads can be ported beautifully and there is a ton of extra casting to work with, especially in the TUPY heads. I guess you could squeeze in a 2.100" intake valve with a head from another platform, but the increase in shrouding would negate the increase in cross section.

I think we would benefit much more from a roller camshaft core. If we could put our heads together to get someone to start machining billet roller Jeep cams, a chopped up and welded LS7 head would make more sense.