Jeep Strokers

Well its finally spring and i have gotten the short block built. I will be installing it next week. I installed the electric fuel pump yesterday and it seems to work fine (except for the noise). I may later try to find a quieter pump, Or find a low pressure one for in tank use. I have ran into many problems, But seem to have most of them worked out. My biggest concern is, My deck height on the pistons. Seems my crank is not ground perfect. When i installed the pistons i measured the deck height and found some are out of the bore and some are in the bore. Varies from .007 out to .010 in the bore. Since i don't want to buy a crank I'm going to run what i have. Now it makes me wonder how close these motors was from the factory. I know my deck is strait and my rods are the same length, I measured both. I do however have some good news also. As i posted before i bought the small cam from 505, Its really a bullett cam. This is a top of the line camshaft. I would recommend to anyone wanting a cam to contact Bullett, As they will grind anything you want. On all the cylinders the cam was off no more than .002 thousands and no more than 2 degrees. I have used many cams in the past ( i build a lot of blower motors for Fords) Most all other cams are off by as much as 7-10 degrees, some worse. Well y'all wish me luck this week and ill let you know how it runs about friday. I also wanted to say if you want a set of ARP head bolts i found a solution, It is expensive though. If you order the 258 kit and the 114-3602 kit, According to ARP it will make 2 sets of head bolts. They don't have the studs on the top like the original bolts but this I'm sure this could be worked around.

The crank currently sitting in my block has the same issue as yours. Different strokes. The one sent to Hesco for examination and correction was just as sloppy. Tapered journals, different strokes, etc. Lee believes that the taper is the source of my knocking sound.

However, there are a few new options. Hesco, has one ($790 now, reg $900+), 505 performance ($1000+) and Scat ($400). If I had known about the Scat or if it was out at the time I would have purchased that instead.

I'd wager that the majority of the re-manufactured cranks that we are using are sloppy.
I have ordered 2 cranks from different grinders (Crankshaft Rebuilders - Sanford, FL and Crankshaft Supply Co - Minneapolis, MN).
Both were junk. .007 + run out. Rod pins with .005+ taper and no filets. None of the mains were the same size and were not round.

My crank is stock and not rite, I figured the stock crank would be better than most regrinds i have seen. That's the reason i paid over 100 bucks for some 001 mains, so i could keep the stock crank. But now i wish i would have taken the money and used it on a better quality crank. Still makes me wonder about how close a stock 4.2 or 4.0 is from the factory. I may check the deck height on the motor i pull out tomorrow. Might have a better crank?