Day 15....
On the way to the shop this morning my 04 Turbo diesel broke an injector line. I got the part off on the side of the road. Normally I don't carry any tools with me but happened to have some line wrenches, some sockets, and a ratchet because I had worked on my friends tractor the other day. As luck would have it right as I got the part off one of the guys that really works at the shop drove by and gave me a ride to town. Although I have 125K on my truck, apparently this injector line is a common problem cause the dealer stocks it so I was able to send my wife to pick it up for $57....do not add to bulid:)
While waiting for the injector line I was able to mount the rods on the pistons. I then put the main bearings in the block and checked oil clearance to the crank which is running .0022 - .0025". The crank spins nicely by hand. I was also able to get an assembled measurement using the longest of my rods (there is only about .002" between them after being resized) and decked the block .027" to achieve zero deck.
I loaded the block in the hone as I need to hone another .001" to achieve my desired final piston to bore clearance of .004". The paperwork for the pistons calls for .0035" to .0045 for aspirated street and .004"-.0050" for street towing. I will likely tow a utility trailer from time to time so tomorrow I will hone about .0015" additional out of the block and by the time it cools it will be in the .0042 range which suits me just fine. A little on the big side is a safer bet with the likelihood of towing and when you live in the desert where the temps can get high..
After honing tomorrow it will be time to finish prepping the block and start assembly......
Gonridnu's stroker build
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
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- Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
- Vehicle Year: 1989
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: XJ 2 door
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SilverXJ
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- Joined: February 14th, 2008, 7:14 am
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- Vehicle Year: 2000
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- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Radford, Va
Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
You might want to give Keith Black a call as they started with the 2618 alloy installed at a recommended .004" clearance and they switched to the 4032 alloy and a recommended clearance of .0025". That spec sheet may not be correct.
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
- Posts: 332
- Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 am
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- Vehicle Year: 1989
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: XJ 2 door
Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Day 16.....
It's too late now...but thank you Silver and I'll check with them....I've personally known the two guys that work the tech line for years so I'll try to get a definitive answer and post it here. I'm guessing .0025" would be the minimum number in the range and I don't really care for setting pistons tight. The sheet that they came with showed .003-.0045" for street aspirated and .004-.005" for towing. I intend to tow my 3000 lb shoeing trailer with it and we see pretty high temps here in the desert so I'm not terribly concerned about a little extra clearance. But I set it at .004" based on their sheet.
Today I finish honed the block and put cam bearings in. I used a dura-bond N-7B number (rather than the standard N-7) that has a full groove on the cam side of the #1 cam bearing and back grooves on the #2 and #3 positions for improved oiling to the crank. The cam bearings went in nicely and and with a little tap tap tap on the old cam the new cam spins smooth like butter. Washed the block for about the fourth time....this time I used galley brushes to make sure there was no machining debris left in an oil galley.
Checked rod clearance and they are about .0016". Wish they were a little bigger but the crank pin was on the high side so I kinda expected it. I prefer not to lose bearing crush so I left the rods on the minimum number rather than opening them up a little to gain oil clearance. I am perfectly happy with having the rods at this clearance as it will all but eliminate the need for a HV oil pump even though the mains are at .0025, which I am also very happy with because of the nature of a inline 6 cylinder crank in use. Even with 7 mains they tend to twist and get harmonic vibrations more than their V8 counterparts due to their length. I'll take the extra clearance on the mains and slightly tight rods to control oil flow any day.
When I ordered rings I ordered an 8 cyl set in case I broke one as they were only like $10 more than the 6 cyl set and if U've ever bought a single ring pack U know they can be almost as much as a full set. I forget the part number but the Sealed Power rings came in exactly to the recommended towing spec of .017" top ring and .016" second ring without any filing....nice! I did use a little diamond file to break the edges at the ends. Mounted the rings on the pistons and of course didn't break any because I bought extras...LOL
When I checked deck the other day I also checked crank endplay and it was only .001" so I knew I would need to massage the thrust bearings a little which I did today. Laid the crank and endplay was nice at .004". I was ready to install pistons when I realized the shop didn't have a ring funnel the right size so I'll bring one in with me tomorrow along with some of my assembly measuring tools.
I gotta do some horses in the morning but I'll run to Summit and pickup a Cloyes true roller and assuming there are no major issues with the cam grind this thing should be short blocked by late afternoon. It's nice having Summit in your backyard when you forget to order stuff like...well...uh...er...a timing chain:)
Still have a little work to do on the cylinder head though....When I'm done I'll post some flow numbers with a bowl blend, gasket match, and the LS1 valves.
It's too late now...but thank you Silver and I'll check with them....I've personally known the two guys that work the tech line for years so I'll try to get a definitive answer and post it here. I'm guessing .0025" would be the minimum number in the range and I don't really care for setting pistons tight. The sheet that they came with showed .003-.0045" for street aspirated and .004-.005" for towing. I intend to tow my 3000 lb shoeing trailer with it and we see pretty high temps here in the desert so I'm not terribly concerned about a little extra clearance. But I set it at .004" based on their sheet.
Today I finish honed the block and put cam bearings in. I used a dura-bond N-7B number (rather than the standard N-7) that has a full groove on the cam side of the #1 cam bearing and back grooves on the #2 and #3 positions for improved oiling to the crank. The cam bearings went in nicely and and with a little tap tap tap on the old cam the new cam spins smooth like butter. Washed the block for about the fourth time....this time I used galley brushes to make sure there was no machining debris left in an oil galley.
Checked rod clearance and they are about .0016". Wish they were a little bigger but the crank pin was on the high side so I kinda expected it. I prefer not to lose bearing crush so I left the rods on the minimum number rather than opening them up a little to gain oil clearance. I am perfectly happy with having the rods at this clearance as it will all but eliminate the need for a HV oil pump even though the mains are at .0025, which I am also very happy with because of the nature of a inline 6 cylinder crank in use. Even with 7 mains they tend to twist and get harmonic vibrations more than their V8 counterparts due to their length. I'll take the extra clearance on the mains and slightly tight rods to control oil flow any day.
When I ordered rings I ordered an 8 cyl set in case I broke one as they were only like $10 more than the 6 cyl set and if U've ever bought a single ring pack U know they can be almost as much as a full set. I forget the part number but the Sealed Power rings came in exactly to the recommended towing spec of .017" top ring and .016" second ring without any filing....nice! I did use a little diamond file to break the edges at the ends. Mounted the rings on the pistons and of course didn't break any because I bought extras...LOL
When I checked deck the other day I also checked crank endplay and it was only .001" so I knew I would need to massage the thrust bearings a little which I did today. Laid the crank and endplay was nice at .004". I was ready to install pistons when I realized the shop didn't have a ring funnel the right size so I'll bring one in with me tomorrow along with some of my assembly measuring tools.
I gotta do some horses in the morning but I'll run to Summit and pickup a Cloyes true roller and assuming there are no major issues with the cam grind this thing should be short blocked by late afternoon. It's nice having Summit in your backyard when you forget to order stuff like...well...uh...er...a timing chain:)
Still have a little work to do on the cylinder head though....When I'm done I'll post some flow numbers with a bowl blend, gasket match, and the LS1 valves.
Last edited by gonridnu on March 10th, 2010, 10:17 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
- Posts: 332
- Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
- Vehicle Year: 1989
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: XJ 2 door
Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Got my Picture issue worked out...they're from my phone soooooo.....
Checking main bearing bores on the new block
Checking main bearing bores on the new block
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
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- Vehicle Model: XJ 2 door
Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Polished beams on rods before shotpeening (pic 1)...
And rods resized, shotpeened, and fitted with ARP bolts (pic 2)
And rods resized, shotpeened, and fitted with ARP bolts (pic 2)
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Last edited by gonridnu on March 10th, 2010, 9:47 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
- Posts: 332
- Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 am
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- Vehicle Model: XJ 2 door
Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Balancing rods....
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
- Posts: 332
- Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
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- Vehicle Model: XJ 2 door
Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Balancing rotating assembly...
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
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- Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 am
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Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Polishing the crank...
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
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Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Zero decking the block....
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
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Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Block is machined and ready to prep with plugs and paint....
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
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Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Here are pics of the N-7B cam bearings...again they are from my phone which of course has been in my pocket for a year without being cleaned...LOL
This is the back groove on the number 2 & 3 cam bearings.... I dont think they are much more money. Dura-Bond is right down the street and they had them in stock
This is the back groove on the number 2 & 3 cam bearings.... I dont think they are much more money. Dura-Bond is right down the street and they had them in stock
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
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Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Checking crank end play....
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
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Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Magchecking cylinder head...
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
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Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Machining Renix temp sender whether I use it or not (notice guide liners installed). remember this hole is drilled and tapped at an angle. Because the casting dimensions were different from the old head I located a piece of paper using the valve cover bolt holes and made an old fashioned rubbing (like you did leaves in kindergarten) of the location. I then used an expandable pilot in the existing hole on the old head while mounted on the head machine to find the angle. Then put the new head on the machine without moving the table to drill and tap it. Close enough for government work:)
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gonridnu
- Movin on up ^
- Posts: 332
- Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 am
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Re: Gonridnu's stroker build
Thought I had pics of the hard seats and LS1 valves roughed in along with bowl work but apparently not.... Friday we leave for the weekend for daughter's rodeo so after tomorrow I am done for the week. I'll take a bunch next week of the head work before I put it on.
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