Chris wrote:If I was building a full out torque monster, I wouldn't have a problem dishing out the pistons, decking the block, etc, etc... but I'm just wondering if for what I'm wanting (a DD with better offroad capabilities) is it worth the time, effort, and money to do all of this. Now if this is something that must be done to have a reliable stroker I don't have to worry about, then by all means, I'm in and will be one of the next in line at the machine shop. I'm just having a hard time convincing myself this is something that "I" need. Maybe I just need to be convinced...maybe I'm just being hardheaded...lol Either way, I am new at this, and you all are old hats at it, so my ears are listening, and my eyes are reading. Just help to lead me in the right direction so I don't hate myself for doing it when I get through with this build (for having a crappy stroker, or spending too much money)!!!
Chris, this is just my opinion, but...........................
The simple way to build a stroker is with 258 crank and rods on a stock piston, and stock cam. But this is
not a tough eng and if you abuse it, like the 4.0L would take every day, of it's life.......It could vary well fail...................but there are many that have went this route and lived........live just fine......but..........if it does fail, it will probably be due to a piston failure(not the pistons fault)and you won't have much left to save for the next attempt.
HOPEFULLY SOOOOOON!!!!!!!! The next step would be KB's new stroker piston for our 4.0L/stroker.......this piston will allow the use of the stock (LONGER) 4.0L rod.(better quench/compression ratio and piston skirt stays in the bore at B.D.C) the reason this is so much better then the previous is the rod height.............If the piston sets up further in the bore, at T.D.C (Top Dead Center) then at B.D.C( Bottom Dead Center) the piston skirt will not be hanging out of the block as much (More piston support and less piston slap that could cause a skirt failure with the above way of doing it.
Next is the Custom Forged Piston! this will be the most Expensive of the two above but since you decide the spec's of the piston you can us the stock 4.0L long Rods or even the EAGLE Rods that are even longer then the 4.0L rods
With this route you need to understand Quench, piston height(wrist pin height as well as piston dish volume and piston to deck height and I'm sure these more that i haven't mentioned(If your going this route, you machine shop would be the best tool to have to get it right.....................COULD YOU BEAT ON THIS ONE.......YES....... BUT there is a lot more to the TOUGH rebuild then pistons but this is what were talking about here.
there is a lot, a lot of variables that can be done to help the first one work better. The 2nt one is going to be a better choice and make a better stroker.......as the 3d choice will be better then the 2nt. Keep in mind dollars will get bigger with each step up as well.
One last suggestion,........ Go to the top of this page here, and click on the
FAQ link, as it will give you a much better vision of all the parts and what each need to be done to do it........ ah, Right?
That my be a little confusing as there is two FAQ pages, it look like........heres the one you want!
Click here:
viewforum.php?f=27
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