Jeep Strokers

Has anyone measured how thick the spacers need to be to space the girdle away from the crank and rods? I know "one or two washers " will do it but I would like to get (or make) my spacers before I start putting my engine together.
Thanks
Paul

The washers I used averaged .0815" thick. I got them at lowes or home depot. They are hardened and zinc coated. I use two per bolt. I'm actually surprised no one is selling a "kit" for this yet.

I only had to use 1 per bolt. When the machine shop balanced my rods, enough material was taken off the bottom of the big end to clear the girdle with only 1 washer.

SilverXJ wrote:The washers I used averaged .0815" thick. I got them at lowes or home depot. They are hardened and zinc coated. I use two per bolt. I'm actually surprised no one is selling a "kit" for this yet.

I was wondering this myself. I am starting a stroker project and would like something a bit better then washer.

The shop I work for does deal with water jet cutting and I can harden these spacers in our shop.

Is there enough of a market?

Is it just one size/thickness of spacer or are there many?

I may just make them

Why not buy hardened washers from a bolt and nut supply store? Thats what I used, and watch out using regular stamped washers they very in thickness.

I know hardened washers will work . But how thick? There are many thicknesses avail ,and I do not want to space the girdle any farther than I have to. I would like keep the nuts in the locking portion of the nut. I am going to check it out and i'll post what I come up with.
It probably varies from engine to engine (balance job on rods for instance).
Paul

Wanna let me know what you come up with? I am probably just gonna water jet cut mine and harden them at our shop.

As DWG said he had to use only one washer. I am a bit confused by this as I thought the rods were matched to the lightest, which would have meant in his case that one of the rods already had a smalled balancing pad to start with.

In my case I needed two. I also had to beat the piss out of my oil pan to provide the extra clearance for the main girdle. I think most people end up needing two though.

I had to use 2 per and also beat the pan.

I have heard that the oil pan from a 4.2 is a little bit deeper than our 4.0 oil pans. Would that be sufficient to avoid needing to clearance it?

gradon wrote:I had to use 2 per and also beat the pan.

I also used two washers as girdle spacers but I only needed to clearance the oil pan from the Melling HV pump.

stewie wrote:I have heard that the oil pan from a 4.2 is a little bit deeper than our 4.0 oil pans. Would that be sufficient to avoid needing to clearance it?

NEGITIVE in my case. I use the 258/4.2 pan and had to massage the front and rear of the pan with a hammer.

The oil pan clearance issue is a problem I am working on. I am making a form to use in a press to clearance the pan for the girdle. I am going to stretch the pan about 3/16" so there will not be any chance for rubbing.
Some of the mystery noises people get in engines could be parts just contacting sheetmetal (oil pans or valve covers)
I will post pics when I get the pan done .
I also know that a "BFH" works for clearance issues, but I wanted to try something a bit more civilized.
Paul

Does anyone know which area or stud head on the girdle is the clearance issue?

Looks to me it's the flat part of the girdle that hits. Studs stay the same length as stock, just the nuts move closer to the pan .

Paul