Jeep Strokers

I wish I found this site sooner. I'm in the middle of installing a Titan 4.6 stroker in my CJ7. Looks like I MAY be in for a titanic pain in the a$$?? Suggestions from anyone on what to look out for would be appreciated. I'm NO mechanic and have a friend helping me out. So far my experience has been good. But that relates to service, not the motor. More to come when we get it running.

Since you already own it put it in and run it until it breaks. Sorry to say this but their whole operation is a titanic failure. Pre sale service seems good but it turns around when you need to fix it or they need to send you parts.

Do you need any specific help on the install yet? Just be sure you torque everything to spec and prime the engine until oil comes out of the push rods then about 2 minutes after that. Bring it up to TDC on compression stroke and install the distributor. To prevent problems with timing go off Dino's writeup: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html. Not sure if the dis indexing would be different for your setup though. Before you start it turn the power on but don't start the engine then bleed the fuel rail of air (thats if you have fuel injection, don't know your setup). Fire it up and immediately begin the cam break in procedure. Do not let it idle. And get it started as soon as possible avoiding excessive cranking.

SilverXJ wrote:Since you already own it put it in and run it until it breaks.

That just about sums it up. Just cross your fingers, toes, and any other body parts you can cross and hope it doesn't break.

Just primed the motor yesterday and got the dirtibutor installed.
Here is the build sheet I received from Titan

Here's your build sheet.

Titan 4.6 Jeep Stroker Engine Build Specifications

* 53020569 Block magnafluxed, Line Honed, Bored .030 and Decked .015

* 258 Crankshaft Machined .010/.010 with oil holes chamfered

* 707 Connecting Rods Shot Peened, Recondioned with vertical oil clearance set at .002

* Silvolite 3241HC Hypereutectic Coated Skirt Pistons in .030

* 5 Angle Valve Job with 1.94 intake 1.624 exhaust valves

* Comp 68-201-4 Cam .447/.447 212/212 @.050

*Single True Roller Timing Set

* Multi Layer Steel Head Gasket .043 Thick

* 3/8 Big Block Pushrods


* Sims Tested 215 pounds compression, 51 Pounds Oil Pressure 10 amps draw

At least you got a build sheet, which is a step in the right direction on Titan's part.

What should I expect from the jeep as far as towing ability? Silver xj: You mentioned the set-up, it's a carb, edelbrock 500cfm.

Can't tell anything about towing capability without more cam specs, the duration and lift don't tell us if it's a high overlap cam or when the valves open up (cam timing) but based on 212 seat duration I'm guessing its not a radical horse power Cam

I suspect that a 500 CFM carb is quite a bit too much for RV/Towing style useage... you'll get your best low end and mid range torque from a smaller carb, that 500 will only really be in its sweet spot at higher RPM's. It's not losing a ton of power or anything but it's not optimal for towing for sure.

blk85cj7 wrote:* Sims Tested 215 pounds compression

That's a very high cranking compression. With a calculated (by me) static compression ratio of 10.2:1 and that mild CompCams cam (260 degrees advertised duration, 212 degrees 0.050" opening duration), I'd be surprised if your engine doesn't ping even with premium fuel.

If it does ping what should I do? Different cam the only solution?

IIRC you can retard to the cam to get the same effect.
It moves the power band up a bit.

Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes. I hope to post some pics and or video soon. I'm sure I'll be posting questions as well

Build sheet FTW

Now I know which cam I have, all my sheet said was 212 212

She's running!!! Cam is broken in and I took it for a spin. Small exhaust leak and oil leak at the dip stick. Looks like I need a o-ring. It still needs to be dialed in a bit but it sounds great. No pinging.

The dipstick doesn't get an o-ring. Use some RTV.

Did you verify what they sent you matches the build sheet.. or at least as much as possible?

From what I can tell it seems ok. I have found a very annoying problem. My Clifford Header came with a leak. I thought it was the gasket but there is a whole at the flange, 1st cylinder. I have to take it all apart and weld the hole/ leak from the inside, per Clifford. Not a cheap header.