Jeep Strokers

I've got my crank sent off to Shaftech for grinding and nitriding.

I need to decide what to do about the snout. If I do get it cut, will the keyway need to be recut too?

Any reason NOT to get it cut and just run a spacer?

Thanks ya'll

I used a 10mm thick spacer placed in front of the harmonic balancer on my crank. It's much easier than cutting the snout. Just get an old harmonic balancer and have a 10mm slice cut from the back on a lathe. The resulting spacer will have its own keyway.

Hesco's spacer has a keyway cut in it already, but I have seen spacers that do not have the keyway cut where you have to cut the key instead.

Actually one could collect damaged 4.0L dampers for nothing more then shipping and have them cut up and sell the spacers.

just got my hesco spacer in the mail... WOW 35.00 for that little A$$ thing! they should sell them for no more than 15.00 .. seriously

Anyone tried using washer and making the key way by filing a little notch?? Is that too ghetto?

I like the idea of using a old harmonic balancer?

Any other thoughts?

whats so hard / difficult about cutting the snout? I thought it was as easy as having the machinist do it, and then just bolt everything up like normal...

I don't have a picture here to post. I can do that tomorrow.

But my concern is that when you cut the 10mm off, you're taking most of the keyway with it. So, what's supposed to hold the harmonic balancer in place? Just the interference fit?

Likewise, when you use the spacer, what holds the balancer in place?

Bodo wrote: my concern is that when you cut the 10mm off, you're taking most of the keyway with it. So, what's supposed to hold the harmonic balancer in place? Just the interference fit?

Likewise, when you use the spacer, what holds the balancer in place?

The key is simply there to locate the dampener, a 1/4" of key will do the job, the press fit of the hub on the shaft is what does most of the "holding" and the clamping of the bolt does the rest, the spacer is just that, a spacer, it will protrude past the end of the crank and transfer the clap force of the bolt to the dampener hub.
The only thing neat about the spacer is that its a "bolt on", no modifications are necessary.

I believe that I'll cut the crank snout on my engine, I can do it at work for free!

Thanks IH. That sets my mind at ease.