Spec-ing out a Stroker

[dagr8tim]

I'm in the very early stages of planning a stroker build, and I'm trying to put together my build plan. I've read several "recipe's" for strokers and none seem to address it the way I want to do it. Here's what I'm hoping to get out of it. If I am off base or it's not feasible, please tell me now. I want to get my plan down before I start investing in parts.

Requirements:
- Run on 87
- Reliable (I'd like 100K before any major work needs done)
- Slight Performance bump over a stock 4.0
- Solid platform for future mods

Desire's:
- Use as many original parts as possible without pooching my build.

Beyond that, I'd like to use a new 4 counter weight crank with the proper size snout with new bearings, I want to bore the block only what's necessary to straighten the bores, only deck the block enough to keep CR & Quench near stock levels, gasket match the intake & exhaust, and possibly a slight port and polish just to clean up any potential casting flash. I also plan to replace the oil pump, bronze sleeves in the valve bores in the head, and depending on how much I have invested possibly looking at a performance cam & upgraded rockers. I plan to do the assembly/disassemble myself, and sourcing a machine shop to clean up (and check the block/head for cracks) the block & head.

Lastly, I'd like to keep the build under $2000-$2500. The donor is a out of a 98 XJ with 170K, and the finished product will be going in a 97 XJ. This will be a DD/Weekend Warrior running at current most 33's & 3 1/2 inches of lift.

Questions:
- Is it really worth it to balance the rotating assembly?
- Did I miss anything major (I'd rather find out I'm missing something now than later)?

[Cheromaniac]

I have a +0.020" overbored version of the 4.5L "poor man's" simple stroker recipe from my site sitting in my Jeep, and it sounds like that's what you need. It's the recipe that requires the least machine shop work (only a cylinder overbore) and uses most of the original 4.0 parts (you'll only need to change the crank, rods, and pistons).
My dyno numbers speak for themselves. I have a '01 XJ intake, 24lb injectors, stock FPR, and a homebrew MAP adjuster set at 5.25v. Goes like a raped ape.

[dagr8tim]

I have a +0.020" overbored version of the 4.5L "poor man's" simple stroker recipe from my site sitting in my Jeep, and it sounds like that's what you need. It's the recipe that requires the least machine shop work (only a cylinder overbore) and uses most of the original 4.0 parts (you'll only need to change the crank, rods, and pistons).
My dyno numbers speak for themselves. I have a '01 XJ intake, 24lb injectors, stock FPR, and a homebrew MAP adjuster set at 5.25v. Goes like a raped ape.

Thanks, I've spent quite a bit of time looking at your site and the various flavors of strokers.
- How's your CR?
- Did you have any head work done?
- Do you mind if I ping you with some more questions when I get beyond just pondering the possibilities

I'm also hoping I can get away without tweaking the electronics, or atleast only having to reflash the ECM to take advantage of the gains.

[Cheromaniac]

Static CR is 9.25:1
Head is ported with stock valves, not milled. Chambers measured 57cc. In your case, you could gain some cc by polishing them up and that would reduce the CR.
Running stock PCM with excellent street manners. Throttle response is neck-snapping.