Jeep Strokers

So I have seemingly misplaced my crankshaft bolt and all of my "specialty" (taps and thread restore kit) tools are in my toolbox at work. Anyone know this? I found a 1/2x20 and it starts but binds up. Being an old 4.2 crank, I'm assuming this is going to be a SAE thread, but I could be wrong and it might be metric, so I'm not sure if the threads on the crank are boogered or if it's not a 1/2x20.

Also, I need learned on valves, springs, retainers and locks a little. I'm using a CC 68-231-4 and from what I've read, the best springs to use would be Mopar P5249464's. The best price i've found is at summit for $11/ea. Jegs wanted $18/ea. I can't seem to get Advance's page to acknowledge that p/n exists to get the magical $6.99 price.

From my digging, I also found that stock retainers won't work with those springs and to use the P4452032 Mopar retainer. Summit has them for 10 bucks a pop. These need 8 degree locks, are the stock retainers 8 degree? IE, can I use the stock locks with the larger retainer?

And is it just me, or does $252 seem stupid expensive for a set of springs and retainers? Are there really no better / less costly options out there? I know when my buddy did his 350 bowtie, he might have had $300 into stainless valves, springs, retainers and locks. Stupid Mopar.

Brandon_K wrote:So I have seemingly misplaced my crankshaft bolt and all of my "specialty" (taps and thread restore kit) tools are in my toolbox at work. Anyone know this? I found a 1/2x20 and it starts but binds up. Being an old 4.2 crank, I'm assuming this is going to be a SAE thread, but I could be wrong and it might be metric, so I'm not sure if the threads on the crank are boogered or if it's not a 1/2x20.

Every 258 crank I have ever happened upon is 1/2-20. NOT metric.

Brandon_K wrote:From my digging, I also found that stock retainers won't work with those springs and to use the P4452032 Mopar retainer. Summit has them for 10 bucks a pop. These need 8 degree locks, are the stock retainers 8 degree? IE, can I use the stock locks with the larger retainer.

From my experience so far nobody except Xceldyne makes a 8 degree, radius groove, top lock keeper for a .311 valve stem. Factory jeep retainers and locks are 7 degree. Don't be confused by some retainer and aftermarket locks that are labeled SUPER 7, they are really 8 degree. Hopefully others will chime in to give you some info on what you need and maybe for a better price. But for what it's worth, if you can find a spring that fits the factory retainer REUSE the factory retainers. Buy new locks if you like but the factory retainers are currently being used on drag motors with 180 lbs on the seat and close to 400 lbs open without failure up to 6600 rpm.

Orielly's auto parts is where you will find the lower price on the Mopar Performance parts. Advance auto parts no longer has the site.

I do believe the stock 2.2/2.5 dodge 4 cylinder retainers are the same size as the mopar performance ones. So if you could fine some in the junk yard, that would cut cost. The LS1 valves are 8mm so maybe the LS1 retainer could be used. I don't know about the LS1 springs I think they install at a higher height.

It would be great if we could find a spring/retainer combo that would work with the Jeep 8mm valve stem, besides the expensive Mopar Performance parts.

Thanks for the replies guys. I haven't learned myself on spring height and all of that fun happy stuff yet. So, I can take the easy and stupid expensive route of the MP springs, retainers and the P4529218 8 degree locks. At least the locks aren't ridiculously expensive, Year One has a set of 16 for $26 (compared to Summit, $20 for a set of 8), but still, 12 springs @ $11/ea = $132, 12 locks @ $10/ea = $120 and $26 for the locks is $278 for a very small part of the valvetrain!

Or I can do some learning and find out what other options are out there. I know in my reading the LS1 springs definitely sit at different heights, so I'm pretty sure those are out unless you do machining to the head, which would in turn still cost money.

After it's all said and done, I should have done a late model bowtie 5.3L or 6.0L dropout from a pickup. 4 wires to hookup, do something trick for the gauges and it's done. Now granted, that's a 80k+ mile motor rather than a fresh rebuild, but they both make awesome power even stock. Lots of aftermarket to make even more power too

I figured out with all of the costs, new parts, machining, etc I would have spent probably about the same and I'm not even done with the head yet!

Anyhow, any other info regarding springs, valves, etc for the Comp 68-231-4 would be greatly appreciated.

DWG - I searched for it on O'Reily, do I have to go into a store? Their online gig says no dice. The closest store to me is ~1 hour, so before I go calling I'd like to get the low down on it. $48 buck savings is a case of Brad Penn break-in oil

Try this link http://shop.oreillyauto.com/Default.aspx. Type in P5249464 in the search. If they don't have them, jegs and summit should do a price match. You will have to give them the web site and part number, to show them how you got the price.

You should also be able to get a better price on the retainers.

I purchased the 68-232-4 kit and have the same problems. Found a distributor here in NC that has the P5249464 springs for $9.50 ea, retainers for $8.95 ea and a set of locks (12) for $18.00. The stock locks will work, I went all new just cause. The Moparts Connection (Marsh Performance) www.mopartsracing.com (336)752-2879.
FSM specs
Valve closed 66 - 74 flbs. @ 1.625 in Valve Open 205 - 220 flbs @ 1.20 in
Kit specs w/Comp 926-12 springs
Valve closed 109 flbs @ 1.80 Valve Open 317 flbs @ 1.30 in
P5249464 compressed on a spring tester
132 flbs @ 1.625 in 285 flbs @ 1.147 (based on .478 gross exhaust valve lift)

Useing stock 1.6 rockers and based on the FSM values and the cam/spring kit spec sheets I want to bring my seat load/closed valve to ~100 flbs, open will be what it'll be. I’m also hoping this will help with excessive cam wear by staying closer to the cam kit spring seat load specs. Couple of options; find ‘tuliped’ retainers similar to factor to gain a few thousands, as these are flat, no luck so far. And/or machine the spring seats which also means reducing the diameter of the spring boss when standard cutters are used – assumes double springs. The P5249464 spring is larger in dia. than the factory springs so there would be some spring walk before machining, this would increase significantly with machining. Sorry I can’t remember the dia of the stock spring boss and the amount of reduction caused by the machining process, I’ll get the info if anyone desires. Solutions; there are retainers that come in two styles a cup that is .060 thick which would require addition depth to the machining of the spring seat or internal spacers (washers) that would increase the dia of the spring boss and are held in place by the valve stem seals. We are leaning towards spacers, the reason being we calculate having to machine approximately .075. The machinist doesn’t feel comfortable with removing another .060 to accommodate the thickness of the cup or .135 in total.

Can you explain a little more detail on "the stock locks will work" bit? The OE locks are 7 degree, the retainers for the Mopar Performance spring is 8 degree...

The springs that came with the kit use retainer Comp part #744-12 which use 3/8" locks so the stock locks will not work. The retainers I'm speaking of are Mopar part# 4452032 which work with the stock locks and are for use with the Mopar springs I listed earlier.