Which Oils/Additives contain ZDDP

[John]

I have to disagree, I use a cam break in lube on the camshaft and the bottom of the lifters. A good oil containing over 1000 ppm zinc, and a full bottle of EOS to break in a new motor. Drain the oil after the run in, change the oil and filter, use a high ZDDP content oil, 200 miles of mixed driving and change oil and filter again. I always want to use a high ZDDP additive package, always.
John

[fedrusion]

Just posting it to get some feedback from what everyone else is doing. I am planing using non synthetic oil after the break in and make sure it is either a high zddp oil or use the additive. I didnt even know we had a problem until recently.

[Shark]

is there a synthetic that is high in ZDDP?

[seanyb505]

I was under the impression that synthetics are a no-no. But then again, I my Jeep had it for 80k miles without issue. My guess is that it was so far after the initial break-in that it wasnt that big of a deal.

[Muad'Dib]

is there a synthetic that is high in ZDDP?

I posted that in the 1st page:

I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15w50. It has something like 1200.

EDIT..

It is 1200:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... _Guide.pdf

They also say its for flat tappet cams...

HT/HS applications. Racing and Flat tappet applications

......................................................................................................

I was under the impression that synthetics are a no-no. But then again, I my Jeep had it for 80k miles without issue. My guess is that it was so far after the initial break-in that it wasnt that big of a deal.

I was also under the same impression. I was always told to use Dino oil for the first 5,000 miles then switch to synthetic after that if you wanted to.
Now that this thread has come up however, i am curious what you can actually do. Can you break in a engine with a Synthetic with a high amount of ZDDP?

[John]

For most I would advise against it as with most motors will take much longer to seat the rings running on synthetic lubes. It is doable if one is willing to do the cyl. prep work and match that to the ring selection. However I know of no cam mfg. that recommends break in with synthetic lubes.
John

[jeepinwi]

For the past 2 oil changes, I have been sing Rotella T 5w40 synthetic since the temperature has reularly been below zero. I don't know the ZDDP additives, but it is SL rated. The previous 15k miles, I used a farm grade 10w40 SL rated oil that was only $13 for a 2 gallon jug. I have my engine apart now to replace the head gasket and fix an oil leak, so I checked the cam as long as it was apart. It's a Crane 753905 with 23k miles, and the lobes have less than .003" difference among each other; intake and exhaust lobes seperate, of course. Once it warms up some more, I'm going back to that cheap farm oil since it has worked great for me so far.

[oletshot]

I saw that Rotella today at local auto parts and was wondering the same thing. I found it a BITOG, here is a copy of the lastest VOA.

It's RTS 5-40, CI-4+/SL rated.

RON: This 5W/40 oil from Shell looks perfect in our analysis. The TBN was 12.5, about as high as you see virgin oils go and it would read the same for their petroleum-based 15W/40. This is the synthetic form. We rarely see a problem with it though we do often see problems with other types of synthetics run in diesel engines. (my emphasis - wonder what that means?) For the purposes of this analysis though, we found no problems in this sample of unused oil.

MI/HR ON OIL:
MI/HR ON UNIT:
DATE: 1-21-08

ALUMINUM: 0
CHROMIUM: 0
IRON: 1
COPPER 0:
LEAD: 0
TIN: 0
MOLY: 0
NICKEL: 0
MANGANESE: 0
SILVER: 0
TITANIUM: 0
POTASSIUM: 0
BORON: 0
SILICON: 5
SODIUM: 2
CALCIUM: 3204
MAGNESIUM: 9
PHOSPHOROUS: 1249
ZINC: 1403
BARIUM: 0

SUS VISC. @210F: 75.4
Cst Visc. @100C: 14.37
Flashpoint: 425
Fuel %: —–
Antifreeze %: —–
Water %: 0.0
Insolubles %: 0.0
TBN: 12.5
TAN:
ISO Code:

Looks like it may be good choice for an already broken-in stocker or stroker. When reformulated to CJ it's zinc & phosphorous levels will undoubtedly go down. It will be in my engine at the next oil change. Unless I find something even better by then.

[John]

Yes in the present formulation, that would do well for a engine that was broken in, vs on that was just ran in.
John

[seanyb505]

Just curious did you ever get a some what comprehensive list together of what useful oils have what content?

[FrankZ]

The problem with the WWW is too much conflicting info...From http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#The%2 ... ile%20Fact

API Certification, Phosphorus & ZDDP
Never use a non-API certified synthetic oil (there are many of these on the market). The problem with the non-API certified synthetics is that they contain too much phosphorus (in the form of the additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates)). The API has limited the amount of phosphorus because phosphorus shortens the life of the catalytic converter. These oils are fine for snowmobiles, motorcycles, and older cars that don't have a catalytic converter, and the extra ZDDP does provide additional wear protection. Unfortunately, the marketers of some the non-certified oils do not explicitly and honestly state the reason for the lack of API certification. You can check the status of API certification on the API web site. Be certain to go not just by the manufacturer name but by the actual product as well. This is because a manufacturer will sometimes have both certified and non-certified products. Suffice it to say that Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Castrol, & Havoline all make synthetic oils that are API certified and that can be purchased at auto parts stores and other retail outlets. Amsoil has one product line, XL-7500 that is API certified, but it's other lines contain too much ZDDP to be certified and should not be used in vehicles with catalytic converters.

[aaronkeiser]

I just went to my local GM dealer and bought some GM E.O.S. I had no idea it would be that much, but if it helps the motor live a very long time then im all for it. I bought 4-16oz bottles which ended up costing $82.66...about 20$ a bottle. 2 bottles for my motor, 2 for my dads 460. It's ok since the girl behind the counter was cute.

[gradon]

Where else can you buy the EOS(somewhere it's gotta be cheaper than that)?

[FrankZ]

I was at the shop today and asked what they were using for break-in on the motors he builds. The answer was Delo400 since Rotella no longer contains the ZDDP additive. Based on my research it's the oil that everyone is now using.

http://www.chevrondelo.com/en/products/ ... efault.asp

More ZDDP links from Google:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Delo+400+%2B+zddp

After the break-in period you can continue to use it or change over to Joe Gibbs Racing Oil, there is a Dealer Locator link on the main page.

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/

In addition to the break-in lube that I got with the Crower Cam, I'm also going to add a half bottle of Comp Cams Break-in Oil Additive for the initial start up (30 minutes @ 1500-1800 RPM) and then add the second half after the oil change.

Hope that helps.

[Flash]

Well it looks like I'm going to post just in time for some controversial
First my opinion on it....................na lets here yours. The article is cut off on the right, but if you click on it, it will expand, and if you click on it again, it will be easier to read.

This is out of a monthly mag sent to all GM TECH (no I'm NOT, was given to me buy a friend of mine,






Flash.