Mikey's Stroker build

[John]

The 95 double diaphragm booster does make a difference. I didnt modify the prop valve in my 99 either. Good brakes. Use your emergency brake now and again to keep it working well
John

[dwg86]

I used a dual diaphrahm off a 1984 S10 on my 1979 Jeep CJ-5. I had to slot the holes a little to get it to fit on the firewall brackets. I made an adjustable rod going from the brake pedal to the linkage on the firewall behind the master cylinder. I don't know if the YJ has the same linkage setup behind the master cylinder.

It works great. My CJ has a 401 with a big cam (low vaccum) and 36 inch tires. No problem stopping without any effort . I got the S10 booster brand new in the box, off ebay for $10.00.

[SilverXJ]

I have heard that the WJ brake booster and master cylinder is a better swap than the earlier XJ stuff. Its not direct as you will have to modify the push rod from the pedal. I have the parts sitting here just I can't install them now (my storage unit does not allow me to open the driver door enough to access the brake pedal and stuff under the dash.. and I can't move the XJ over with a jack as the tranny is sitting on a jack stand). As for the prop valve. If you are running rear discs you would want to either grad the whole prop valve from a ZJ with 4 discs and swap that out, or you can take yours and the ZJ's apart and swap springs. However, like some suggest you do not want to just remove the o-ring as that kills all pedal feel as well as merges the front and rear brake systems.

[Mgardiner1]

John I picked up a TJ booster (which is DD) and figured i should be able to adapt it (in the event that its different from the 95 YJ DD). Any thoughts? I was able to pick it up on evilbay for a cool $.01 + $17 shipping. So for $17.01, it wouldn't be a major loss

Dave, Sounds like some good stopping power. I'll keep it in mind if this TJ booster flops

Chris, its been recommended that in the event of overpowered rear brakes, to modify the proportioning valve, or swap it with a rear disc vehicle, however i seem to have a very good balance, strong rear braking and no signs of locking up.

[John]

Mike I haven't done that conversion so I am speculating, Fab skills should get you by. My TJ system is larger, but there is room to set it back on a YJ. Adjustable push rod linkages are easy to make from grade 8 bolts with the head ground down to fit into the pocket. It should be possible even though there is some simpler swaps for the YJ. Let us know how it goes.
John

[oletshot]

What are some of the best master cylinder/brake booster upgrades for the YJ? We will be doing the 8.8 swap in the near future, like Mike it will probably be soon after the stroker goes in, but for now it still has the drum brake D35. Any suggestions?

[John]

I like the e350 MC swap or the 95 YJ dual diaphragm swap, Here is the grand daddy of all MC swap threads. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238377
John

[oletshot]

Thanks John, I/we will be doing some brake work really soon on the YJ. I figured now would be the time to upgrade.
Sorry Mike, I should have started a new topic instead of highjacking yours.

[Mgardiner1]

Thanks John, I/we will be doing some brake work really soon on the YJ. I figured now would be the time to upgrade.
Sorry Mike, I should have started a new topic instead of highjacking yours.

No sweat Dave! I just haven't updated this thread cause i haven't worked on my brake system since i put the axle in. I am trying to get my engine problems squared away first. I gotta be able to go in order to need brakes to stop

[John]

Well as you sound like you have the motor straightened out, it might be brake time again. I mentioned the master cyl. I like and gave a link, I remembered this one laer. I think it explains your options well. I use the E350 for the basis of the YJ with HP60 front/dual disc calipers and a 14 bolt rear that sadly is still drum. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=239758. Lots of good stopping tech...
John

[Mgardiner1]

Good read john, thanks for the link.

However, i do not feel that it applies to me. It seems that all those boys are running 3/4 to 1 ton axles in both front and rear. I've got the problem with my stock D30 brakes up front. I hadn't planned to swap out my D30 unless i had the correct D44 fall in my lap. I was interested in the vanco brake setup as this seemed to address the problem with the weak front disc components, and also stepped up to a larger dual piston caliper. The only advantage i can see the E350 setup having for me is aiding my pedal from almost touching the floor. There is no such thing as panic breaking in my jeep. The brakes work, and slow the vehicle down, but would never dream of locking them up, even on dirt. The rears have been great so far, i can tell an improvement in the rear braking, and they don't lock up. I think my problem really lies within my front brakes. Do you think that the newer TJ DD booster and master combo that i got is even worth trying? do you think it will yield any improvement at all?

[John]

I just don't know for sure. I can tell you that my 99 TJ has 33" tires, 8.8 rear axle and a HP Dana 30 front axle with the OEM calipers front and rear. I have great highway brakes with the factory TJ master cyl, prop valve and booster. It is a auto tranny, the off road brakes are marginal in low range. I think you would have a similar outcome.
John

[Mgardiner1]

Haven't posted back in awhile. I'll give my 2000 mile update

I had rebuilt the Dana 35C axle back in the winter of 06-07. I had installed new spider gears, changed up to 4.1 gearing, and installed new bearings....... After 500 miles behind my stroker, this is what it looked like when it sheared all the teeth off of the smaller set of spider gears





So far the ford 8.8 has been holding up very very well.

I still have yet to modify the brake system, which is definitly going to need some help. Panic stopping is not an option in my Jeep LOL

My external fuel pump took a poop last week. I ordered a 70 GPH, 85 PSI replacement pump, and removed the balast resister from the wiring harness. Now that the pump runs at a full 12V all the time, it does create a little bit more noise, BUT, my horsepower doesn't dump off over 4,000 RPM like it had been doing (scared the hell out of a guy trying to get away from me in an Escalade when i was pulling ever closer to his bumper and had all the horse power i needed over 4000 rpm )

So far the engine is running very very well. I've done 4 oil changes on it so far and am now going to be doing 2000-3000 mile intervals. Still adding a little GM EOS despite the fact that the oil i'm using is 1300 PPM of zinc.....

[dwg86]

What Oil are you running?

[Mgardiner1]

Oil that is a bit thicker then it should be.... I work for a John Deere dealership and we have 55 gallon drums of what i believe to be a semi synthetic blend of 15w40. John deere wants it run in all of their diesel engines. Its high in detergents and zinc. Its called 15w40 PLUS 50. Its called Plus 50 because John Deere allows 50% longer hours between oil change interval when using this oil.

When my stroker was a virgin, i was using 5w20 in it and it was too thin, i didn't like only having 25-30 psi of oil pressure at highway speed. My oil pumps relief valve is set a little low, with cold oil it never goes over 50 psi, and with the 15w40 i get a steady 40 PSI at highway speed.

Here is a VOA of the 15w40 PLUS 50. It costs me $2.42 a quart to buy it out of the barrel at work.