Jeep Strokers

In my consideration of a cam I almost forgot to consider all the other aspects of my valve train. I want to lift my valves higher..against stronger springs, so I am putting a lot more stress on my push rods and rockers. I have never heard of a broken rocker but just how much pressure can stock push rods handle? Do I need to upgrade to hardened chromoly?
Mopar Performance Spring specs are:
Free length: 2.06"
Rate: 271
113#@1.64"
225#@1.228"
232#@1.205"

I thought I would post a picture of the wj. She has seen better days. But better days are to come as well

Those spring loads are relatively light. I wouldn't worry about fancy pushrods at all. Factory 4.0 open pressures are around 220-240lbs fyi.

I got my block back from the Mech shop yesterday and got some color on it. I chose Green for 2 reasons. First and foremost it was the cheapest high temp paint they had, and second I will be able to see any leaks very easily.
My crank, rods, pistons, rings, and rod bearings are at the shop getting balanced. When I get my rotating assembly back I will be able to assemble it to get my piston to deck clearance. Then It will be back to the Mech shop to have the block 0 decked. Ill also be milling .003 off of the head to reduce my combustion chamber volume in order to try and get my C/R up. If I do all of that I think I should be around 9.38:1

I got some preliminary cam numbers today. Randy from RM competition ran my jeep through his program and with a little adjustment came up with these numbers.
217/[email protected]" Duration
485"/.485" valve lift
106 LSA
He says, "It actually has less valve overlap area and better tune-ability than the 220 duration with 108 separation and will definitely run better.."

I think it should sound mean as hell but still have power and torque around 1,000 revs.

Any thoughts?

Your cam specs are 213in. 217ex.? What was your reasoning for 106 lobe separation?

Good catch 6TIME. 106 LSA? sounds like it belongs in my brothers 69 Mach 1. Those were just some numbers that this guy sent me. He is trying hard to sell me what he calls his "street rod" cam. Probably because I told him I wanted an aggressive sounding idle. I now realize that is something I'll give up in order to have that low end torque.
I have looked hard and I don't think there is any reason to get a custom grind. I have found 4 bump sticks that I believe would do well in my engine...from Mild to Wild
Stock
188/190
.408/.414
_________
107.5

Mopar 229
202/202
.440/.440
_________
108

Comp 235
210/218
.477/.493
_________
111

Comp 239
218/226
.493/.512
_________
111

Crane 941
216/228
.484/.512
_________
112

Comp 235 sounds promising.

Why are you not including the HB and the flex plate in your balance ? What your doing will static balance but not dynamic. If your not doing dynamic then why bother at all ?

Aw yes. I forgot to include them in my post. I have however brought them to the mech shop. HB and flex plate will be balanced as well.

I got my head back after the Mech shop milled .030 off of it. This took 5.5 CCs out of the CC, which brings me down to 53.5 CCs left in the head. This will mean that I have a compression ratio of around 9.6:1 at 5,500 feet. I could take another .020 off the head and bump it up to 10:1, But I don't see any need to do that at this point. Chime in if you think otherwise.

Average volume was 53.58

I put my crank in my block and torqued down the caps to 80 foot lbs. I did not attempt to spin it this first time because there was plastigauge in every journal. It was steady across all 7. right at .001 clearance. Is this enough?

That is pretty tight, even the very low end of factory specs which are 0.001 to 0.0025 in. with preferred of 0.002 in.

Well, now I'm in a tough spot. they ground it for free so I don't want to complain and they are the best place in town to do the work. Question, Can they just polish off .001 or do they have to grind and then polish to remove .001?