My "stroker" plans

[W_A_Watson_II]

In addition to getting the correct Torque Converter this morning, I also got the new Push Rods. So they were installed, and I pumped oil around through the engine after installing them. I then added the comp cams break-in additive and the rest of the oil and pumped some more oil around before installing the exhaust and intake. Unfortunately one of the apparently already cracked exhaust studs broke on me, so I'll have to get a new one. Need to finish the transmission line installation, radiator and wiring, then perhaps I can start the engine and do the break-in running before letting it set while I do the body repairs.








http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[ronaldzouein]

Hey Folks,

Anyone know where I can buy some 87 octane gas in Dubai? I've searched most of the stations but no luck.

Also, anyone familiar with Castor oil?

Thanks for the help!

rz

[W_A_Watson_II]

Spent some time this afternoon, welding the exhaust extension, tightening up the remaining transfercase bolt, filled the transfercase and radiator. I then proceeded to pull the necessary internal wiring harness, gauge clusters, and steering wheel and hooked them up on the chassis. It took a little to discover I missed connecting the smaller firewall connector, but once it was connected I had full power and could crank the engine over. I primed the fuel system, and will do one more check over and a few other odds and ends before I roll it out and try to start it tomorrow afternoon.




Will

[Cheromaniac]

Hey Folks,

Anyone know where I can buy some 87 octane gas in Dubai? I've searched most of the stations but no luck.

Also, anyone familiar with Castor oil?

Thanks for the help!

rz

Hi RZ,

I live in Al Ain just 135km (85 miles) due South on the E66 (yeah, the Emirati equivalent of Route 66).
The 87 US octane gas that you refer to is the same as the 91 RON octane E-Plus that you'll find at ADNOC and some other stations.
Castor oil? That's a good laxative. I'm sure you're actually referring to Castrol.

[W_A_Watson_II]

First, a big THANKS to Bill Gangloff (lucdog) a fellow MIJC member. Bill drove down from Peoria to see me start the engine up. He spent more time on the road than he did here, but am I glad he came. Turns out I apparently did get the distributor 180º out of time. Either when I did the initial install, or when I primed the lifters, or when I pre-lubed the engine. Doesn’t matter what, I did it.

After it didn’t initially start, we checked for fuel and spark and had both. We re-checked all the connections, and tried a few more times before checking the timing. With the use of an engine pressure tester, we determined it was out 180º. So I proceeded to correct it. Still didn’t start, so after some more checking, we discovered I was one tooth off on the distributor timing. Once more I pulled and re-installed the distributor, and we tried again. She started up and ran great.

Now we cranked up the RPM to the required 2,000 RPM, and started looking and checking everything over. Had a momentarily over 210º water temperature that caused us to lower the RPM, but it corrected itself and was likely an air bubble, as it didn’t happen again.

About half way through the cam break in, the engine developed a miss. The Air Fuel Ration started jumping with each miss. I suspect it might be due to the old stock spark plugs, and will install a new set of lower temperature plugs when I change out the break in oil and see if it returns. If it does I’ll have to start checking the new injectors and plug sires for problems. Almost everything is new, including the distributor, cap, wires, injectors, sensors, etc… So with the new Plugs it must be a faulty part, something I did incorrectly.

While it was running did add additional transmission fluid, and will likely need a little more when I get a chance to run it through the gears. It now has 9.5 quarts, and I believe with the deep pan should hold 10+ quarts.

It’s great to have it running with all the work and parts, and after the oil and plug change and one little exhaust change, I should be ready to start working on the tub.






https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1oOw2C ... ature=plcp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JlxJS7 ... ature=plcp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chEJR8H ... ature=plcp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHpdULb ... ature=plcp

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well after yesterdays engine start and cam break-in, it was time to change the oil and install the new Spark Plugs. I elected to do the break-in with the old plugs figuring there might me some oil or other burn off that I didn't want to harm the new plugs. Not sure it was a wise idea, but I did it. As you can see in the first picture, Cylinders 3 & 4 (and partially #6) either weren't cleaned enough, or have problems and likely caused the miss the engine developed during the break-in. In the second picture you can see the cooler heat range NGK BKR6E-11 (RC9YC4) Spark plug next to one of the old Champion 4412's. (RC12LYC). While I had the plugs out I also did a room temp wet engine compression test. The results are as follows:
1 - 183psi
2 - 182 psi
3 - 186 psi
4 - 183 psi
5 - 185 psi
6 - 183 psi
All in all only a 4 psi delta, and what I believe to be good numbers for a 9'ish Compression Ration Engine. I also checked (once I knew you could and how) checked for any Engine codes, and only found batter disconnect code which was expected. I changed the engine oil and filter and added the ZDD Plus Oil Additive. I rechecked the manifold torques, and noticed two of the exhaust pipes had a sign of what looked like oil run oil of the pipe to flange area. It's probably from the small oil leak that developed on the valve cover while running during the break-in. While the engine was running (break-in) I re-torqued the valve cover and believe I have the oil leak stopped. I also removed and extended the exhaust pipe to get the muffler to clear the skid plate, and further investigated the stock tail pipe position. I'll probably take it back, and end up having one made that fits better and is 2.5", not 2.25" in diameter. Now with the gas tank straps that arrived this afternoon, I can paint and install them and have the chassis done with the exception of drive shafts.








http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[Cheromaniac]

I noticed that each time the engine missed, the AFR went up to 17:1. Your plugs also look lean especially the center two. Did you try raising the fuel pressure with your Hesco AFPR?

[W_A_Watson_II]

Cheromaniac,

I noticed the wild fluctuation as well (drops and fly's sky high). I've not yet bought or installed the Hesco AFPR, so no. I do notice black smoke and a rich smell when the engine starts and revs up, but you are right on the plugs look. I've pulled the two center plugs after running the new ones, and they look much better. Need to run it some more to see how it does after 15-20 min.s with the new plugs.

Thanks for the reply and I'll keep you posted.

Will

[SilverXJ]

I noticed that each time the engine missed, the AFR went up to 17:1.

Normal. A wideband will see a miss as a lean condition. Remember its an O2 sensor, not a fuel sensor.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Took advantage of probably one of the last nice days to wash off the weekends mud off the M37, and roll out the YJ to start and run the engine again. The intent was to let the engine run a good 30 minutes and see if the miss returned, and after almost 50 minutes, it did not. The engine still runs and sounds strong, but when you rev it the Air/fuel ration jumps around it it blows out some smoke. It still smells rich, but the A/F ration says different. Fluid levels are all holding steady and looking clean.




YouTube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDGwjSu ... ature=plcp
YouTube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJUbTXC ... ature=plcp

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[Cheromaniac]

Looks like the new plugs solved the misfire problem. The AFR stays around 14.7 at idle exactly as it should, and I noticed that it dropped down to the 11's when you revved the engine harder. That, together with the cold start richness, suggests that you'll need to lean out the open loop operation a bit and a MAP adjuster with the input voltage reduced to below 5v would do that for you.
Seems kinda wierd considering your engine seemed to be running too lean earlier with the old plugs.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Thanks for the input. I suspect the old champion 4412 plugs had seen many miles in the improperly card for 4.0 before I got the jeep, so the plugs solving the misfire was a thankful solution. I'll have to look into the MAP adjuster and how to do that.

Thanks,
Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Just to update everyone on my build. I'm almost done, but did drive the Jeep for the first time with the Stroker, 2013-01-19. It was only around the block, and in front wheel drive (hadn't installed the rear drive shaft yet), but wow, it's world of difference.

Click this link to see the Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-Am-Ezl ... e=youtu.be



Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

First, it's amazing how much quieter the Jeep is with the tail pipe and the plug gap closed down a little. It still sounds good, just not as bad ass as before.
I pulled the tail pipe out after marking where to trim the exit end. I then cut and cleaned up the ends and pipe before painting it. Once dry, the Pipe was re-installed and checked for exit clearances. As long as nothing gets between the spring and fuel tank it should be relatively safe.
See the Spark Plu Post for the latest on my Engine miss investigation: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... 748#p33748



Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Took the Jeep for a couple more test drives today. So for all is well, the miss has not returned, YEA! It still amazes me how much pep the Jeep has with the 3.07 gears and 31" tires. Now to not break an axle (too soon). The shifting seems to be better after a couple of kick down cable adjustments. It's now shifting just above 4,500 RPM when the pedal is to the metal. the Jeep is as with all projects not done, but I can now safely and enjoyably drive it again.



Will