Jeep Strokers

we did, it was .003 so it is a go.

505 sent me the wrong bearings for the bottom end as well as two #2 and two #3 teflon coated cam bearings (but nothing for #1 or #4). I was tired of hassling with them so I went out and bought the right parts. So, the motor is in with hot idle oil pressure at 19 psi and 60 psi at 2500 rpm. The motor seems to make more noises from the bottom end than before but nothing that is overly concerning. I am getting an intermittent ckp/cmp code so I'm trying to get my hands on a dual trace oscilloscope to check the sync between those two sensors.

During a discussion with my machinist, he told me since I'm running 20w-50 that I needed to make sure the oil was good and warm before driving. So, I installed a mopar block heater and a 150w oil pan heater. I will hook it to a timer that'll fire up about an hour before I leave for work. He thought it was a good move and said I'd like starting it up and having heat right away. I'll post as, hopefully, the miles add up.

100 mile update. I finally borrowed a dual trace oscilloscope and sync'd the cmp and ckp. Even with a properly indexed cmp, it was off a good bit. Syncing them stopped the code.

The motor runs the same as before but has 19 psi at hot idle instead of 2 -3 psi. That issue has been solved. The motor does make some weird sounds at idle (cross between a diesel and a sewing machine) but runs fine with no misses or hesitation. It is bugging me for sure and my gut tells me it ain't good. I drive round-trip about 80 miles each day. I should have about 300 miles on it by the weekend and will change the oil to see how things look.

Anybody have information on a reputable oil analysis company?

I need to either visit my old ET lab partner up in Lancaster and break out his o-scope or hassle Chris for his buddy with the drb down in VA so I can know without a doubt that the cmp and ckp are sync'd. I also want to get new o2 sensors, and then I'll feel ready to get the Unichip tuned.

I don't know if they all test the same or differently, but there's i place called speedco(like a jiffy lube for semi's) and they have a macine to test within a few min. depends where you're at.

I use blackstone labs for my oil analysis.

gradon wrote:Chris for his buddy with the drb down in VA so I can know without a doubt that the cmp and ckp are sync'd

His doesn't have the updated software to do the sync. Last time I checked on ebay the update and cable was $40. Even if I had to buy the update it would still be better than going tot he dealer.

Drained the oil after 300 miles. Looked ok and there wasn't much "glitter" or metal stuck to the magnetic drain plug. I'm going to run it to 1000 miles and get the oil tested. In the mean time, I am going to work on tuning it with my Zeitronix AFR and one of the SplitSecond units. If there is something better or easier than a SplitSecond, I'm all ears...

basscat wrote:The motor does make some weird sounds at idle (cross between a diesel and a sewing machine) but runs fine with no misses or hesitation. It is bugging me for sure and my gut tells me it ain't good.

Which cam are you running again?

I am running a Comp 68-232-4 and have similar sounds. At 1k miles since the build. Different sounds than what I had stock, but it runs well.

Running the 505 Stage 1 roller cam. Funny thing is the only thing I changed from the first time is the bearings and HV oil pump. It runs fine, just sounds like hell...

Mine is sounding like a damn sewing machine too . I've got a 68-321-4. I pulled the vc to make sure all was tight- it was and "popped" all the lifters w/ a dead blow hammer. Was quiet far about 5 mi. Changed the oil and with vc off again put some duralube spray in all the rocker pivots. Was quiet for 10-15 mi. What the heck?? Getting louder too

These engines aren't really designed for QUIET... mine sounds like a sewing machine too, but it does anytime its on "broken in" oil. Give any new oil change a couple hundred miles and it just settles into the sound it makes.

all of these aftermarket cams are ground for performance and etc, unlike the stock cam which has lots and lots of effort into not being loud along with all sorts of things we modders usually don't pay attention to.

Now, if it gets louder rapidly, and doesn't change tone when oil changes, then I would start to get concerned.

Well, that's me. New oil , and gettn louder problem is I'm outta room till I finish my current eng. Project then I can tear into it.

Valve train noise seems to be a common theme from what I have been gathering on these builds. The ramp rates for the Comp Extremes and Lunati are high. Most everyone forgoes the Comp springs in favor of the Mopar Perf springs. Could this be a factor? I've heard several people mention that they thought the Comp springs were too much pressure/overkill, but are they??? You may need that with a low duration cam that has a real high lift. There could be some kind of bounce going on, or something. It might be interesting to see what everyone is running, and noise rating!
Also on noise, forged pistons need to be "run-hard-and-put-up-wet" to keep them heated so they're properly expanded. I wouldn't consider forged pistons for any low speed applicaton or rock crawling work; only for power adders and HiPo n/a. They need to be fitted based on intended application during cylinder boring i.e. DD, performance, towing ect. A hypereutectic, provided they come in the correct compression height for your length rod, would be a much better choice for low speed work because they don't expand as much, therefore, they don't need all that extra clearence until they warm up. Funny thing on this: I have a 12 valve Cummins, and the owners manual explicitly states, "do not let idle for more than 5 minutes as idling does not generate the heat needed to keep the pistons properly expanded for a good seal causing excess blow-by which can lead to oil dilution and premature engine wear". I always see these people at gas stations that leave their diesels running lock the doors and go inside probably thinking that thats the thing to do because the big rigs do it.

You can't use the comp springs on the 4.0L valves, unless you can find a retainer to fit the comp cams springs and the 8mm valve stem, round groove valve lock, 4.0L valves.

I used the mopar performance springs on my stroker with an Engle cam that had .501 lift, 214 [email protected] and crower roller rockers. I had no problems or valve noise. I put 18,000 miles on my engine when my Jeep got totaled.

That's right dwg86, I forget their "kit" is for the 4.2l. That Engle cam is pretty aggressive (low duration high lift) as well. What lifters and rockers are you using? (I could check the Build Thread. Sorry to high jack your thread basscat, but it is engine noise related.)