Jeep Strokers

A $1,000.00 billet crank sounds nice, It is possible to get this kind of pricing if the parts are made in China. I would be extremely susprised if a domestic supplier could do it for this price.

I did investigate this issue myself, and found the market to be limited. People are not breaking cranks, or rods either! The crank would be attractive if it would accecpt chevy rods. Since the rods are cheap, this could justify spending more money on the crank. A crank that would have a 4" stroke and take stock Jeep rods would be the most attractive product. Usually with a 4" stroke you are into special connecting rods and the cost starts going up.

I would not mind having a stock 4.0 billet crank, but that is only because of being able to race in a stock class. I only know of about 5 people that are racing jeeps.

You could probably sell 50- to 100 pieces. Hesco has sold more than 100 of their $2,000.00 cylinder heads. The heads are stock replacements and do not offer any major performance increase. People also spend $600 on roller rocker that they don't need.

Hey nick, though you might like to see what they looked like back in the day.

More pics here

http://mwphoto-misc.smugmug.com/Cars/SC ... 6062_nvihS

This shows a great shot of the front air Dam.

I realize I haven't given an update in a long while so here we go. So my cam, pistons, rods and valves are in. I'll have the offset crank and bearings in a few weeks and then I can take the block and everything to get bored and 3 angle valve job done in one sitting. I like that I got the most radical cam profile they could come up with. Pistons and Ferrea valves are ceramic coated and skirts, rods and cam are nitride coated. So I should start building this monster in January.

In the pictures below are the following:
Custom Ross 3.937" slugs w/ 1.265" pin height with ceramic coated 34cc dish and nitride coated skirts
Custom 6.150" nitride coated H-beam rods
2.02 in 1.60 ex ceramic coated Ferrea valves
Nitride coated 505 Performance "most radical profile" roller cam

I finally get to see an eagle in person. . .very nice. Guess it's almost time to strip the renix block down. That extra .002" bore is because the Ross has been nitrated? Next time you talk to Max, you should ask him why they didn't use a roller-cam in the JP build.

Sweet a part of my build (rims) got to debut on your build!lol

anyway those parts are nice! you should drop all that stuff off at tacho now to get that out of the way. It could take longer than you expect.

Nice. The only thing I don't like is the single roller timing set.

SilverXJ wrote:Nice. The only thing I don't like is the single roller timing set.

Well if you refer to my 3rd post I wrote a blurb about that.

FYI for everyone the single roller timing set is much stronger chain than the double roller kits.

You actually bought parts from 505 Performance

and you are now claiming a single roller is stronger than a double roller chain...

SO - why should we believe ANYTHING you say?

IIRC someone on here had a single roller's crank sprocket fail.

SilverXJ wrote:IIRC someone on here had a single roller's crank sprocket fail.

Yeah, back in "the day" we used to break single roller chains all the time.

WTF - double chains weaker?

You do not have the most radical cam you can buy, Clifford performance has cams with .310 duration (ADV) solid lifter. They do not have them in the catalog, but if you call them up they can give you the specs.

So Nick got his offset ground crank yesterday. Interesting work on the weights, but still weighs 65#:



I know it's been a while since you posted that Peter, but that is the "most radical roller cam" that 505 offers, fyi(no one claimed elsewise).

What is the stroke? What size is the rod jornal?