06 LJ Randy Rebuild

[Randy Bobandi]

Turbo time

PSR 7982G - Dual V-Band 1.15 A/R

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[D'sJeepWrld]

Turbo time

PSR 7982G - Dual V-Band 1.15 A/R

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Thats a bad unit !
What made you decide using pulasar over the Forced performance turbo ? I know PSR makes some great stuff for a better price but not in this case when you compare the FP turbo im looking at to your current turbo!
I see the compressor wheel has some curve over the FP and a the capability to run a turbine speed sensor from what im looking at ?

Im just excited to see this jeep be built and ripping, Can't imagine the feeling being the one building it . As well i may snag some of your ideas such as the valve cover since i know i can do that right if i'd like just not the idea of running the GTR coilpacks using the bracket design you made once the time comes (It'll be a while for sure.....gonna need the standalone first!)

[Randy Bobandi]

What made you decide using pulasar over the Forced performance turbo ? I know PSR makes some great stuff for a better price but not in this case when you compare the FP turbo im looking at to your current turbo!

I purchased the Pulsar unit during the Black Friday sale, so it ended up costing exactly $1000. Something to keep in mind is that Pulsar turbos come with all necessary weld flanges, gaskets and fittings. Pulsar's price is actually better considering all the parts that come with the turbo.

Also, Pulsar offers way more turbine housing options. Their G series lineup is compatible with Garrett & Tial stainless turbine housings if you want to go stainless in the future.

If I felt like blowing more money on it, I would've went with the new Xona Rotor 8082. Xona is one of few manufacturers that design, cast, machine and assemble all here in the US.

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Most US based turbo companies still purchase all castings from China. Precision, China. FI, China. There's no escaping Chinese turbos and Pulsar is known as the best of the bunch.

[D'sJeepWrld]

Right on man,Gotta love the black Friday deals ! Took advantage of it for a Savvy tummy tuck for my Lj
And gotta love PSR with their Interchange-ability! I knew a bit about them since I've seen BMW guys get a Psr core and run their precision coldside/hotsides due to their precision unit failing and so on&so fourth!
Also that's good to know about on the G series turbos,Didn't know that !
Once the time comes i might be running a PSR 3582 .82Ar stainless dual vBand deal! Should be good for my application But I'll see

And marry late Christmas.....or happy new years

[Randy Bobandi]

Concerned about the manifold sealing under pressure, I decided to O-ring the intake flange. Don't even ask how I did it, it took weeks to do it. Way too much time on the dremel. The header flange was much easier to resurface flat and will seal perfectly with RTV. This intake manifold, not so much. After O-ringing it, it seals so well the plenum will explode before the flange leaks

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Exhaust manifold was a project as well. Rather than spending the 2 grand or whatever ARH wants for an inline 6 header. I took the Flowtech header ($150), cut off the 1 1/2" primaries and welded in, matching the bends in 1 3/4" tubes from an assorted 1 3/4" header tube kit. Collectors feed 2 1/2" tubes and merge into a 3" V-Band. It's basically a custom 1 3/4" header. Sandblasted, Cerakote and wrapped with fiberglass and embossed stainless sheet. This stainless shield is fastened with stainless rivets like a dang space ship.

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[D'sJeepWrld]

Wow

[D'sJeepWrld]

So how's it going with the build ?

[mpgMike]

Randy, you added a header wrap, but left lots of bare pipe. Why? I would have extended the wrap to every inch of pipe I could wrap.

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[Randy Bobandi]

So how's it going with the build ?

My daily driver 00' Cherokee suffered the classic cylinder head crack this summer so I had to spend a bit of time getting that unit back up and running. I actually ended up putting a 0630 head on the 2000 block. I just used an aftermarket TUPY style header and hogged out the header flange to match the 0630 ports. A quick bracket for the coil rail as well. Should get another 200,000 miles out of the daily driver motor. I replaced the OE pistons as well, along with seals, gaskets, the usual stuff.

I should have the LJ on wheels and tires within a month. Just wrapped up making a Crank Trigger/Sensor Bracket. I haven't seen any aftermarket solutions for the straight 6. People want $300 for these brackets for V8's. It's literally $6 worth of aluminum.
I'll be using the "Hyperaktive" GM 7" 12 Magnet Trigger Wheels for this engine.

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I also made a 6 Gallon Intercooler Water Tank last week. It's just an 1/8" sheet aluminum box with an 3/8" NPT drain, 2 ORB Inlet/Outlet Fittings and a 5" Deck Plate for Ice/Water. It will sit in the rear/driver side corner of the bed. I made a dual -12 AN Bulkhead Fitting for the water lines, and fastened a Bosch Brushless Water Pump in the rear driver wheel well area.

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[Randy Bobandi]

Randy, you added a header wrap, but left lots of bare pipe. Why? I would have extended the wrap to every inch of pipe I could wrap.

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I'll post a photo of the bottom of my intake manifold. It has a substantial stainless heat shield fastened to it.

This exhaust manifold isn't wrapped with the traditional header wrap. It has 1/4" of fiberglass fabric and 6 mil stainless heat shield riveted in place around it. There isn't any room directly under the manifold for this style of heat shield or any other style for that matter. I already had to remove a ton of material from the bottom of the intake manifold to make this work. Also, the entire manifold is coated with Cerakote and the injectors/fuel rail has it's own stainless heat shield.

[Randy Bobandi]

Quick update.

I've decided to go external oil pump to eliminate the risk of shredding distributor gears. So far, I've welded in a new pickup tube into the pan. I actually ended up using a pickup tube from a 3.6 Pentastar, minivan version. I've fabricated a driver side bracket for the pump. It will basically sit in the exact space as the AC Compressor did originally.

I've also made a quick Block Off Plate for the stock oil pump's outlet. It's just a 3/8" aluminum plate with an O-Ring seal. An OE style gasket would work as well.

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