Jeep Strokers

SilverXJ wrote:Those clearances are for the 2618 alloy pistons, not the 4032 alloy used on the IC944s. There is a PDF with the correct sheet on here someplace. Here: http://www.kb-silvolite.com/assets/fhr_installation.pdf

Thanks for the help.

That was the page for clearances their WEB site page on the IC944's sent me to. http://www.kb-silvolite.com/icon/icon.p ... s&P_id=543. Wonder which is the current/correct for the IC944's for the Jeeps?

Hope the shop still has the measurements/notes form my block work handy, or I'll be taking the block back for a quick check next week.

Will

W_A_Watson_II wrote:

SilverXJ wrote:Those clearances are for the 2618 alloy pistons, not the 4032 alloy used on the IC944s. There is a PDF with the correct sheet on here someplace. Here: http://www.kb-silvolite.com/assets/fhr_installation.pdf

Thanks for the help.

That was the page for clearances their WEB site page on the IC944's sent me to. http://www.kb-silvolite.com/icon/icon.p ... s&P_id=543. Wonder which is the current/correct for the IC944's for the Jeeps?

Hope the shop still has the measurements/notes form my block work handy, or I'll be taking the block back for a quick check next week.

Will

KB makes another series of forged pistons that require more clearance.... your link. Don't use those.
Use the specs for the 'FHR' pistons that Silver linked to. 0.0025" to 0.0035" for normal street use.

Perhaps I bought the wrong pistons, because I didn't by the "FHR" Pistons, I bought the ICON Performance Pistons IC944-030 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-ic944-030/), not the IC9944's that ate the "FHR" Pistons.

IC944: http://www.kb-silvolite.com/icon/icon.p ... s&P_id=543
IC9944: http://www.kb-silvolite.com/icon/fhr.ph ... s&P_id=524

However both seem to link to the same clearance page of: http://www.kb-silvolite.com/icon/clearance_pop.php on the ICON Web site, showing the same clearances for Street - Towing of .0040" - .0050".

The Shop Foreman was out today, so hopefully I'll know tomorrow what clearances he based it on.

Thanks,
Will

No, the Icon 944s require less clearance as stated before. They only make two pistons for the stroker, both forged out of 4032, both take the same clearances.

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/assets/fhr_installation.pdf

You guys are great. It's amazing how much incorrect information is not only on the WEB (Dah), but on the Manufactures, and Suppliers sites as well.

The ICON and Summit sites refer to the IC944's as High ductility 2618 alloy forged Pistons. However an e-mail from ICON, confirms that they changed them to 4032 about 6 years ago!

They state that with my naturally aspirated engine and bore size, a .0025” to .003” is recommended.

My cylinder walls were bored .030 (-0.000/+.0005) over, for a final cylinder bore of 3.9050" to 3.9055".

Per ICON, the pistons should measure 3.9023” to 3.9028”.

Worst case with out selectively placing the pistons will yield:
A large bore of 3.9055” is used with a small side piston 3.9023” you will have .0032” clearance.
A small bore of 3.9050” is used with a large side piston 3.9028” you will have .0022” clearance.

So I'll take some time to make sure I get a minimum of .0025" clearance.

Thanks for the help!
Will

W_A_Watson_II wrote:Perhaps I bought the wrong pistons, because I didn't by the "FHR" Pistons, I bought the ICON Performance Pistons IC944-030

I did e-mail KB on Sunday about their website linking to the wrong clearances, but haven't gotten a response.
The first version of the 944 pistons did use an alloy that required more clearance, but that was several years ago.
Now they use the new alloy that needs less clearance. Check your piston box.....it should've included an instruction sheet, or maybe the box has more info printed on it. I bought mine in Dec 2011, and they were the new version.
If you have any doubt, PHONE KB's tech support and ask.

Well, after a few phone calls and e-mails, I've discovered that the ICON IC944 Pistons (P/N IC944.030) I'm using are indeed Forged from 4032 Alloy rather than what ICON's WEB and Summit WEB sites states as 2618. So after some good guidance form you guys , and confirmation from ICON, my recommended clearance range specification is .0025” to .003”. I apparently misplaced the instruction sheet, as when I was cleaning up today I found it, and it confirmed what you guys were telling me. Sure wish I'd kept it with the other papers rather where it was found, oh well I've got it corrected now. again THANKS for all the help. With my bore being 3.9050" to 3.9055" and the Pistons being 3.9023" to 3.9028", I will have to ensure I properly fit the pistons to the cylinders to keep a proper clearance.
With all that now behind me I spent the afternoon starting the engine assembly. I checked the ring gap, and have .016 on the top and .018 on the second rings. Both above the calculated .0156 per ICON's minimum clearance. With the correct crank bearings also now in hand, the first item to install was the crank. I used the Comp Cams Assembly lube during the installation. Next I installed the oil pump, the Melling High Volume unit I had installed last year when I got the Jeep. Next came the pistons. Even with the correct tools, the piston aren't the easiest to install, the ring compressor had to be just right to allow the piston to be tapped into the cylinder. Next was the new Comp Camp. Then came the oil pan. Next was the lifters and placement of the head gasket. Finally I installed the new timing chain and gears.










Again THANKS for all the help, progress will now continue.

http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_EngineBuild.htm

Will

That isn't the recommend lube for the cam lobes. Cam companies usually recommend the grey moly style paste. Tends to stay on longer.

SilverXJ wrote:That isn't the recommend lube for the cam lobes. Cam companies usually recommend the grey moly style paste. Tends to stay on longer.

It's what Comp Cams included and said use in the Kit/Instructions.

I wouldnt use anything by a moly lube on the cam lobes. The cam lube cam companies usually send is thin and is basically worthless. Might only consider using it on the cam bearings ... but not the lobes.


Why did you use a stock style timing chain? They have been known to get eaten up by stroker engines.

The Comp Cam, Lifters, and Timing Gear Set, as well as the lube was a kit from Comp Cams. SK68-232-4 - Xtreme 4x4 Cam and Lifter Kit

OK, so tell me Comp Cams stink and lets move on I guess. Should I install the Melling Roller Timing chain I installed last year, little wear or miles on it? It's a

Will

Muad'Dib wrote:Why did you use a stock style timing chain? They have been known to get eaten up by stroker engines.

From what I remember its the single roller stock type timing chain that I have seen damaged, not the silent link style chain.

Today started out good, Assembling the Timing Cover, Water Pump, Harmonic Balancer, Engine Brackets and Alternator. However when it came time to install the thermostat and housing, well I was on a parts search. Don't know why, but for some reason I put it with the body parts, not the drive train parts, and it took a while searching and re-searching everywhere before I found it. then I couldn't find the bolts for it. Not sure why it was being so difficult, but bolts found, and it's now installed. Next I started the process of using the special measuring push rod to determine what push rods I need to order. Will take it and one of my old rods to the Machine Shop and get a proper measurement and get a set ordered. Next I started the assembly of the Intake. Not too difficult, but I used the wrong bolts for the injector rail and snapped one off while torquing it down. So off to the parts store to get a new set of bolts for the throttle Body. I finished the days work off by cleaning the A/C-Air Compressor housing for it's build.








http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_EngineBuild.htm

Will

wow thats a nice and shiny engine. hope she runs as good as she looks for you

amcinstaller wrote:wow thats a nice and shiny engine. hope she runs as good as she looks for you

Thanks, so do I. I have a compulsion of always cleaning and painting anything I repair. Perhaps it's so i can better see my mistakes and make repairs the next time.

Will